KLX250s FAQ and links
#21
07-15-2012 | 02:17 PM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 63
From: Fond Du Lac, WI
1st Gear Member
Enjoy the little klx that could
When I bought my KLX, I collected these links to articles to do the job. When I finished the modding of the KLX, I posted all the info I had in my bookmarks to this thread.
It is time for others to take control of the KLX FAQ and make this thread the place to go to find info fast. FAQ hit 20,000 hits, so it is being used. I am glad this thread is still short, as it is easier to find info with just facts.
I contacted IDRIDR and he said he will post more here and I encourage other to join him.
Jim
more good info
Moto Pro KLX250S Suspension Upgrades
I found parts needed to rebuild my factory rear shock & front forks from Moto Pro.
I am not using their products currently but its good to know where to find parts if needed.
Moto-Pro Suspension
Werloc's Kawasaki KLX250S Page
It is time for others to take control of the KLX FAQ and make this thread the place to go to find info fast. FAQ hit 20,000 hits, so it is being used. I am glad this thread is still short, as it is easier to find info with just facts.
I contacted IDRIDR and he said he will post more here and I encourage other to join him.
Jim
42/14 = 3 or 3 to 1. This is the stock gearing ratio. Meaning for every 3 full revolution the front makes the rear sprocket will make one full revolution.
42/13 = 3.230 or 3.230 to 1. Meaning for every 3.230 revolution the front makes the rear sprocket will make one full revolution. Or 3.230 divided by 3 (Stock Gear Ratio) = 1.076 or 7.6% gear reduction over stock. So if you are going 40 MPH at say 5000 RPM with stock gearing. With the 13 tooth front the engine will have to be running at 5380 RPM to go the same 40 MPH. 5000 RPM x 7% = 380 + 5000 = 5380 RPM.
So it is a ratio on the RPM change not a set amount like 500, but close.
14t at 60= 7,000 RPM then 13t at 60= 7,532 RPM
14T at 70 = 8500 rpm then 13t at 70 = 9,146 RPM
42/13 = 3.230 or 3.230 to 1. Meaning for every 3.230 revolution the front makes the rear sprocket will make one full revolution. Or 3.230 divided by 3 (Stock Gear Ratio) = 1.076 or 7.6% gear reduction over stock. So if you are going 40 MPH at say 5000 RPM with stock gearing. With the 13 tooth front the engine will have to be running at 5380 RPM to go the same 40 MPH. 5000 RPM x 7% = 380 + 5000 = 5380 RPM.
So it is a ratio on the RPM change not a set amount like 500, but close.
14t at 60= 7,000 RPM then 13t at 60= 7,532 RPM
14T at 70 = 8500 rpm then 13t at 70 = 9,146 RPM
more good info
Originally Posted by Johnny Monsoon
The bike is so no-nonsense that it is an exercise in logic; dirt logic.
Everything is in the proper place and tucked nicely to avoid a nasty break when dropped
... and any bike that has any type of offroad application, no matter how minimal, WILL BE DROPPED.
Fact of life.
Then we swapped bikes.
Oh.
Oh, I see. Yes... hold on, what was that? Oh yes, the clouds part, angles begin to sing, and rays of heavenly light begin to surround the KLX.
Mr. KLX: Whoops? What whoops? Let my long legs simply turn these sneaky fork benders into a happy afterthought. Moguls? A simple bump, nothing more. Oh, and, would you like some air with that? Really, no need to slow down; just use caution about where you land that front tire; but not too much, I'll save your butt and prove my superior engineering will almost always get your inexperineced and overconfidenced behind out of trouble.
Me: :drool:
It soaked up so many things I was sure this was really an Imperial Speeder-bike. You know, like in Return of the Jedi.
Lots of track guys say things like "I just thought and it went". I understand that, and it applies here. It is strange to thing of precision in an environment like a dirt track, yet that's exactly what the KLX gives you. The brakes are precise, the engine manipulation is precise, the throttle and clutch are precise. It doesn't clatter, chatter, or otherwise give you any impression of being a lot of bits strung together in hopes of becoming more than the sum of its parts. It feels more akin to being carved from a solid piece of something... something fun and something fast (at least offroad). It was heavier than my TT-R, of course, and a great deal taller, but oddly, unless I was in a situation that called for an off-camber stop in a ditch, it was at least as easy to control. When in motion, more often than not, it was easier to control than my little TT-R.
I wheelied it. I squared off corners. I powerslid. I throttle slid. I locked 'em both up and prayed. I whooped. I jumped. I landed.
It was a fantastic ride. It still proves to make me grin and, I hate to say it, but I covet that bike. I want one. I want one badly.
Road:
The day was bright and clear, and just a tad crisp. I found myself headed out into the twistier parts of Iowa (yeah, I know how that sounds, but you'll have to trust me here). I decided to stop and call my buddy; maybe he'd like to join me. Even though the XX is capable of stomping the ever living Kawasaki green out of his little KLX, I really enjoyed riding with my friend. Oh, and forget the fact that I was hoping he'd let me trade bikes so I could give his little machine a good on-road summary. Shhhhhhhh...
After about 60 miles, I asked him if he wanted to trade steeds. He's a new rider, but he's also a cautious guy, and the XX is a rather forgiving machine so long as you're not being a complete ****** with it. Besides, I was insured. Since I was the guy who had lent him all manner of bikes, and encouraged him to ride, he was gracious enough to oblige me.
Here's what I expected: The bike would get blown around. It would be very vibey. I expected, certainly, that the top speed would be very lacking and that getting to legal highway speeds would be *yawn* boring. The ride, of course, would be similar to the KLR, if not more Caddillac-like due to much longer suspension travel. Funny how things can be different than you expect, eh?
Is this bike a great road bike? No, of course not, but it does better than it lets on. It, my dear friends, is a dual-sport bike, and as such it must follow the cardinal rule of its pedigree and be an exercise in compromise. I would love to have been able to flip a switch and have the engine do a Transformer dance and turn into a 1157cc fire breathing powerhouse, but alas, no such switch exists on this bike. I'm not sure what the engine produces in the way of horsepower, and it is probably for the best, but I'll suffice to say that it is more than enough offroad for most anyone, and enough on the street to stay easily with traffic up to legal speeds. Faster cars and most other motorcycles will have their way with you, but you can smile and know that the sky's the limit when you decide where you want to go for the day.
In mixed traffic, the bike does well. You have great visibility, and the stiff chassis makes the bike feel extremely nimble; even hyper-responsive to your input below 55mph. Above this speed, the bike becomes a bit twitchy due to the steepness of the geometry. I'd strongly recommend a steering damper if this were a highway bike. The odd thing, however, is that even once the bike begins to oscillate (as DS bikes often do) it wants to settle right back down; especially when you go 'light' on the bars. It, my friends, is smarter than you in this regard. Still, I stand by my suggestion of a damper; it will only make things better in most any circumstance. But, stability aside, how does it compare in 0-60 times? I know you are asking the question, and I'll answer as best I can: it does fine. I had no problem pulling ahead of traffic, but don't expect much when you're at 45mph and you want to overtake a car doing 10mph faster than you; especially on an uphill grade. Let's just say that if you're in hill country, and my weight or higher, you'll find that 70mph is quite attainable and maintainable, but not much more. In flats, with enough room, and indicated 95 is about all she has in her, but that's not really the point of this bike, now is it?
The 6th speed is a necessity. It allows the other gears to be lower and pull the bike around with its rather smallish engine. I never really felt it to be lacking, and could easily loft the wheel in first on power alone, and ride into other gears up on one without much fancy clutchwork, etc. It is an astonishingly controllable bike, and the transmission is a nice, positive feeling unit that enhances the feel of control one gets from riding it. The gearing is predictable and never left me feeling that some gap was left in the powerband due to wonky gearing.
At speed, to be more specific, at highway speeds of 65-70mph, the bike does emit a buzz. It is not the deep tissue massage of the larger displacement thumpers, but more of a tingling buzz as the little single cylinder leaps to and fro at an amazing speed of up to 11Krpm. It is quite smooth, in fact, weridly smooth, at 'around town' speeds. The smaller displacement does much to make up for a lack of heavy counterbalancers in the engine like the KLR uses. As such, is more snappy and peppy than its bigger, and older brother. It revs quite freely, and is a great plaything. The exhaust note is quite nice; especially for such a small bike. It is quiet, and I like that. When offroad I appreciate the feeling of being a little less obtrusive in nature, and when highway riding I appreciate its consideration of my hearing. A nice mix.
The brakes are more than adequate in any situation. All the little bits worked well, and didn't leave anything to be wanting that I'd given note of. I must keep returning to the instrument cluster; it is simply pleasing to look at, and tells you what you want and need with no gimmicky complexity, and all the shapes are comforting to the eye. The colors are nice and bright and the contrast of the numbers is nice.
Lots of Japanese bikes, especially in the DS spectrum, seem a bit... well... cobbled together. The KLX is having none of this, thankyouverymuch. It feels very well built, and very solid. For you bicycle riders, it is like going from an off-the-shelf steel Huffy to a near top-of-the-line Cannondale. Yeah, maybe they both have similar function and similar bits, but one is a world away from the other. One of the ways that set this aside, and maybe the defining factor in this is the bike's suspension.
I expected it to roll down the road like it was on a cloud. I was wrong. The suspension, while not harsh, gave incredible feedback. It was not sloppy, mushy, or spongy. It was tight, precise, and firm. I couldn't quite get my mind around how the bike could be so smooth and plush offroad, yet give such good feedback (even over small imperfections and road surface debris), but it does. There was no appreciable fork wandering, thanks to the beefy USD tubes. There was very little chassis flex, and the bike put into corners amazingly well even on nearly offroad-only tires (big lugs!).
I put nearly 300 miles on that bike, with about 135-155 miles per tank and never found a point where I wasn't enjoying the machine. I'd like to have a bigger tank for roadgoing, but for offroading it provided plenty of entertainment.
It did get blown around a bit. Hey, it's a light bike with steep geometry!
So, the reader with at least two active brain cells to rub together can tell I really enjoyed this bike. It shines where other larger bikes fail, and in surprising ways. I was skeptical that such a small displacement bike would fit so well into such a broad spectrum of riding. I think this bike is, perhaps, one of motorcycling's best kept secrets, at least in the Americas. This bike has been around for a number of years overseas, and as such has quite a few performance upgrades available to include a big-bore 330cc kit which is sure to enhance all the positive aspects of this machine while nearly eliminating some of the not-so-positive ones (though I can't for the life of me remember what they are at the moment). If you haven't considered this bike for your needs, please do. If you disagree with me, by all means share your stories, but at least take the time to note how many roles this bike can fill, and do so for a very small entry fee.
Everything is in the proper place and tucked nicely to avoid a nasty break when dropped
... and any bike that has any type of offroad application, no matter how minimal, WILL BE DROPPED.
Fact of life.
Then we swapped bikes.
Oh.
Oh, I see. Yes... hold on, what was that? Oh yes, the clouds part, angles begin to sing, and rays of heavenly light begin to surround the KLX.
Mr. KLX: Whoops? What whoops? Let my long legs simply turn these sneaky fork benders into a happy afterthought. Moguls? A simple bump, nothing more. Oh, and, would you like some air with that? Really, no need to slow down; just use caution about where you land that front tire; but not too much, I'll save your butt and prove my superior engineering will almost always get your inexperineced and overconfidenced behind out of trouble.
Me: :drool:
It soaked up so many things I was sure this was really an Imperial Speeder-bike. You know, like in Return of the Jedi.
Lots of track guys say things like "I just thought and it went". I understand that, and it applies here. It is strange to thing of precision in an environment like a dirt track, yet that's exactly what the KLX gives you. The brakes are precise, the engine manipulation is precise, the throttle and clutch are precise. It doesn't clatter, chatter, or otherwise give you any impression of being a lot of bits strung together in hopes of becoming more than the sum of its parts. It feels more akin to being carved from a solid piece of something... something fun and something fast (at least offroad). It was heavier than my TT-R, of course, and a great deal taller, but oddly, unless I was in a situation that called for an off-camber stop in a ditch, it was at least as easy to control. When in motion, more often than not, it was easier to control than my little TT-R.
I wheelied it. I squared off corners. I powerslid. I throttle slid. I locked 'em both up and prayed. I whooped. I jumped. I landed.
It was a fantastic ride. It still proves to make me grin and, I hate to say it, but I covet that bike. I want one. I want one badly.
Road:
The day was bright and clear, and just a tad crisp. I found myself headed out into the twistier parts of Iowa (yeah, I know how that sounds, but you'll have to trust me here). I decided to stop and call my buddy; maybe he'd like to join me. Even though the XX is capable of stomping the ever living Kawasaki green out of his little KLX, I really enjoyed riding with my friend. Oh, and forget the fact that I was hoping he'd let me trade bikes so I could give his little machine a good on-road summary. Shhhhhhhh...
After about 60 miles, I asked him if he wanted to trade steeds. He's a new rider, but he's also a cautious guy, and the XX is a rather forgiving machine so long as you're not being a complete ****** with it. Besides, I was insured. Since I was the guy who had lent him all manner of bikes, and encouraged him to ride, he was gracious enough to oblige me.
Here's what I expected: The bike would get blown around. It would be very vibey. I expected, certainly, that the top speed would be very lacking and that getting to legal highway speeds would be *yawn* boring. The ride, of course, would be similar to the KLR, if not more Caddillac-like due to much longer suspension travel. Funny how things can be different than you expect, eh?
Is this bike a great road bike? No, of course not, but it does better than it lets on. It, my dear friends, is a dual-sport bike, and as such it must follow the cardinal rule of its pedigree and be an exercise in compromise. I would love to have been able to flip a switch and have the engine do a Transformer dance and turn into a 1157cc fire breathing powerhouse, but alas, no such switch exists on this bike. I'm not sure what the engine produces in the way of horsepower, and it is probably for the best, but I'll suffice to say that it is more than enough offroad for most anyone, and enough on the street to stay easily with traffic up to legal speeds. Faster cars and most other motorcycles will have their way with you, but you can smile and know that the sky's the limit when you decide where you want to go for the day.
In mixed traffic, the bike does well. You have great visibility, and the stiff chassis makes the bike feel extremely nimble; even hyper-responsive to your input below 55mph. Above this speed, the bike becomes a bit twitchy due to the steepness of the geometry. I'd strongly recommend a steering damper if this were a highway bike. The odd thing, however, is that even once the bike begins to oscillate (as DS bikes often do) it wants to settle right back down; especially when you go 'light' on the bars. It, my friends, is smarter than you in this regard. Still, I stand by my suggestion of a damper; it will only make things better in most any circumstance. But, stability aside, how does it compare in 0-60 times? I know you are asking the question, and I'll answer as best I can: it does fine. I had no problem pulling ahead of traffic, but don't expect much when you're at 45mph and you want to overtake a car doing 10mph faster than you; especially on an uphill grade. Let's just say that if you're in hill country, and my weight or higher, you'll find that 70mph is quite attainable and maintainable, but not much more. In flats, with enough room, and indicated 95 is about all she has in her, but that's not really the point of this bike, now is it?
The 6th speed is a necessity. It allows the other gears to be lower and pull the bike around with its rather smallish engine. I never really felt it to be lacking, and could easily loft the wheel in first on power alone, and ride into other gears up on one without much fancy clutchwork, etc. It is an astonishingly controllable bike, and the transmission is a nice, positive feeling unit that enhances the feel of control one gets from riding it. The gearing is predictable and never left me feeling that some gap was left in the powerband due to wonky gearing.
At speed, to be more specific, at highway speeds of 65-70mph, the bike does emit a buzz. It is not the deep tissue massage of the larger displacement thumpers, but more of a tingling buzz as the little single cylinder leaps to and fro at an amazing speed of up to 11Krpm. It is quite smooth, in fact, weridly smooth, at 'around town' speeds. The smaller displacement does much to make up for a lack of heavy counterbalancers in the engine like the KLR uses. As such, is more snappy and peppy than its bigger, and older brother. It revs quite freely, and is a great plaything. The exhaust note is quite nice; especially for such a small bike. It is quiet, and I like that. When offroad I appreciate the feeling of being a little less obtrusive in nature, and when highway riding I appreciate its consideration of my hearing. A nice mix.
The brakes are more than adequate in any situation. All the little bits worked well, and didn't leave anything to be wanting that I'd given note of. I must keep returning to the instrument cluster; it is simply pleasing to look at, and tells you what you want and need with no gimmicky complexity, and all the shapes are comforting to the eye. The colors are nice and bright and the contrast of the numbers is nice.
Lots of Japanese bikes, especially in the DS spectrum, seem a bit... well... cobbled together. The KLX is having none of this, thankyouverymuch. It feels very well built, and very solid. For you bicycle riders, it is like going from an off-the-shelf steel Huffy to a near top-of-the-line Cannondale. Yeah, maybe they both have similar function and similar bits, but one is a world away from the other. One of the ways that set this aside, and maybe the defining factor in this is the bike's suspension.
I expected it to roll down the road like it was on a cloud. I was wrong. The suspension, while not harsh, gave incredible feedback. It was not sloppy, mushy, or spongy. It was tight, precise, and firm. I couldn't quite get my mind around how the bike could be so smooth and plush offroad, yet give such good feedback (even over small imperfections and road surface debris), but it does. There was no appreciable fork wandering, thanks to the beefy USD tubes. There was very little chassis flex, and the bike put into corners amazingly well even on nearly offroad-only tires (big lugs!).
I put nearly 300 miles on that bike, with about 135-155 miles per tank and never found a point where I wasn't enjoying the machine. I'd like to have a bigger tank for roadgoing, but for offroading it provided plenty of entertainment.
It did get blown around a bit. Hey, it's a light bike with steep geometry!
So, the reader with at least two active brain cells to rub together can tell I really enjoyed this bike. It shines where other larger bikes fail, and in surprising ways. I was skeptical that such a small displacement bike would fit so well into such a broad spectrum of riding. I think this bike is, perhaps, one of motorcycling's best kept secrets, at least in the Americas. This bike has been around for a number of years overseas, and as such has quite a few performance upgrades available to include a big-bore 330cc kit which is sure to enhance all the positive aspects of this machine while nearly eliminating some of the not-so-positive ones (though I can't for the life of me remember what they are at the moment). If you haven't considered this bike for your needs, please do. If you disagree with me, by all means share your stories, but at least take the time to note how many roles this bike can fill, and do so for a very small entry fee.
Alright, was farting around today out in the yard and dumped the bike downhill at about 10 mph.. . I don't know how to describe it. I got to the shed, parked it and took a look at the front wheel and my first words were "What the ****?". My front wheel doesn't line up with my fender AT ALL. The point of the fender is about 3/8" from the edge of the tire. It's moved to the (if we were talking about cars) passenger side. What the heck is up with this guys?
+1 very likely tweaked forks
If you "tweaked the forks" nothing is damaged. The fork tubes have spun a little bit in the triple clamps that hold them. Loosening the clamps and re-aligning the front wheel is the correct way to fix this,(Use the correct torque values when tightening the triples) but out in the woods you can use the handlebars to bang the side of the front wheel against a tree which can rotate the tubes back into place.
Dan
If you "tweaked the forks" nothing is damaged. The fork tubes have spun a little bit in the triple clamps that hold them. Loosening the clamps and re-aligning the front wheel is the correct way to fix this,(Use the correct torque values when tightening the triples) but out in the woods you can use the handlebars to bang the side of the front wheel against a tree which can rotate the tubes back into place.
Dan
Short legs means some height adjustment. Doing OK now with the Kouba 3 links. After each adjustment I was always faced with the kickstand height thing. Used wood pads on the foot and even JB welded a rod into the two pieces of kickstand after cutting it off.
To long and and the bike wants to fall to the right after getting my weight off. To short and it will easily fall left.
Just right is difficult to find and set with a cut and weld method.
So - an M10 coupling nut fits nicely up into the cutoff kickstand. A M10 nut with a M10 hex head bolt bottomed fits nicely in the bottom piece.
A little welding, some Locktite and here it is.
About 55 cents worth of dimes and pennies shoved into the spring at max extension makes it easy to remove and replace.
Note - Some pictures show one lock nut and some show two. I settled on 2 to use as a locking nut. Only the very bottom nut and the upper coupling nut are welded in.
To long and and the bike wants to fall to the right after getting my weight off. To short and it will easily fall left.
Just right is difficult to find and set with a cut and weld method.
So - an M10 coupling nut fits nicely up into the cutoff kickstand. A M10 nut with a M10 hex head bolt bottomed fits nicely in the bottom piece.
A little welding, some Locktite and here it is.
About 55 cents worth of dimes and pennies shoved into the spring at max extension makes it easy to remove and replace.
Note - Some pictures show one lock nut and some show two. I settled on 2 to use as a locking nut. Only the very bottom nut and the upper coupling nut are welded in.
Moto Pro KLX250S Suspension Upgrades
I found parts needed to rebuild my factory rear shock & front forks from Moto Pro.
I am not using their products currently but its good to know where to find parts if needed.
Moto-Pro Suspension
Hello All & merry christmas
I got A phone call Friday evening from a gentleman wanting a 351 kit. He said that he saw somewhere on this forum that I was retiring closing shop. Not true I actually am adding a new model to my business, We have purchased a CRF250L for my wife I have already started working on two big bore kits for the CRF250L 283 & 305 cc. I am still riding the KLX351 I will continue supporting the KLX250S & SF.
Thanks
Bill & Jo Ann Blue
I got A phone call Friday evening from a gentleman wanting a 351 kit. He said that he saw somewhere on this forum that I was retiring closing shop. Not true I actually am adding a new model to my business, We have purchased a CRF250L for my wife I have already started working on two big bore kits for the CRF250L 283 & 305 cc. I am still riding the KLX351 I will continue supporting the KLX250S & SF.
Thanks
Bill & Jo Ann Blue
Werloc's Kawasaki KLX250S Page
I just installed my 351 Bill Blue upgrade and kit and I just wanted to share my experience.
Some quick facts;
Bill has sold 377 of his 351 kits!
Going from a 250 to a 351 is a 33% power upgrade!
On this upgrade with a stock carb your go up 2 on the main jet and 1 on the pilot. I am in GA and have a 132 main and a 38 pilot. I have a M4 exhaust, the air box lid removed, and a Uni air filter.
I spoke with Bill a few times and he is a good guy and I would love to ride with him some day!
Trouble spots are few. I am lucky to have my riding buddy is my neighbor and that he loves to get his hands dirty. He also has almost every tool made!
The carb on the KLX is a bare to remove and re-install because it is a tight fit. I removed the metal bracket on the top of the carb that routes the throttle cables.
My engine bolts where odd because there was 4 bolts and 4 washers but the front right bolt had no washer installed from the factory and the one across had 2 washers!
Bill's 351 fits perfectly and adds power for wheelies and hills. I have had a DRZ400s and my KLX351s feels better.
Motorcycle Ergonomics
Ohenry
Some quick facts;
Bill has sold 377 of his 351 kits!
Going from a 250 to a 351 is a 33% power upgrade!
On this upgrade with a stock carb your go up 2 on the main jet and 1 on the pilot. I am in GA and have a 132 main and a 38 pilot. I have a M4 exhaust, the air box lid removed, and a Uni air filter.
I spoke with Bill a few times and he is a good guy and I would love to ride with him some day!
Trouble spots are few. I am lucky to have my riding buddy is my neighbor and that he loves to get his hands dirty. He also has almost every tool made!
The carb on the KLX is a bare to remove and re-install because it is a tight fit. I removed the metal bracket on the top of the carb that routes the throttle cables.
My engine bolts where odd because there was 4 bolts and 4 washers but the front right bolt had no washer installed from the factory and the one across had 2 washers!
Bill's 351 fits perfectly and adds power for wheelies and hills. I have had a DRZ400s and my KLX351s feels better.
Motorcycle Ergonomics
Ohenry
Last edited by klasjm; 09-17-2015 at 11:02 PM.
#23
03-03-2013 | 03:56 PM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 63
From: Fond Du Lac, WI
1st Gear Member
Hi NikLyk,
Grats on your first bike. As some have mentioned above, it's one of the best 'first bikes' to get.
I'm from Belgium and we also get the EFI model here. <3 So to answer some of your questions and recommend some stuff:
Grats on your first bike. As some have mentioned above, it's one of the best 'first bikes' to get.
I'm from Belgium and we also get the EFI model here. <3 So to answer some of your questions and recommend some stuff:
- First off, don't upgrade untill you've had the bike for a few months! Especially if you are tight on cash. Some stuff might not be needed.
- For example the seat and bigger tank: If you only plan on doing short rides arround town or the odd camping trip then try out both first. I've ridden 2+ hours on mine with the stock seat and wasen't soar at all. And with a full tank I got arround 180+km's. So upgrading was not needed.
- As for the rack, how about looking for suppliers in the EU or even your own country? Have you asked your dealer if he can get some of the items you want? (Remember, within the EU you don't have to pay import tax, but outside you do...)
- An essential upgrade on the EFI model is to get rid of the 110 km/h restriction. This is a free mod and is explained HERE.
- You can also remove your airbox snorkel for a slight increase in power and a deeper sound or get a bigger one like THIS. (Picture below shows difference between, from top to bottom: no snorkel, bigger snorkel and stock.)
#25
04-18-2013 | 02:04 AM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 63
From: Fond Du Lac, WI
1st Gear Member
i think the shift star problem was just on 09's. My 2010 has had plenty of abuse and is fine.
What does it need? Imo, a skid plate, a dynojet kit/air filter, hand guards, a seat of some sort, and some real tires.
The dynojet kit improves throttle response considerably, and in many cases will improve fuel economy. I like to add a twinair filter (and use notoil filter oil), and many like to add the kdx snorkel in place of the stock snorkel ($20). The stock seat is awful; the best bang for the buck is the seat concepts one ($179) that you "assemble" yourself. And for tires, if you're going to be riding off-road, we've found the kenda k760 trackmaster ii's to be good for their price (under $100 for a set). If you're just going to ride road mostly, the stockers are fine.
The first time you drop it, you will likely lose a mirror and at least one turn signal, so be prepared. Hand guards will protect your levers. I like barkbusters, but if you have the money to spare, the hdb (highway dirt bikes) guards are really nice, but pricey. Look at double take mirrors once you break yours. You can get new turn signals on ebay from china super cheap (order several sets so you have spares).
Rob
What does it need? Imo, a skid plate, a dynojet kit/air filter, hand guards, a seat of some sort, and some real tires.
The dynojet kit improves throttle response considerably, and in many cases will improve fuel economy. I like to add a twinair filter (and use notoil filter oil), and many like to add the kdx snorkel in place of the stock snorkel ($20). The stock seat is awful; the best bang for the buck is the seat concepts one ($179) that you "assemble" yourself. And for tires, if you're going to be riding off-road, we've found the kenda k760 trackmaster ii's to be good for their price (under $100 for a set). If you're just going to ride road mostly, the stockers are fine.
The first time you drop it, you will likely lose a mirror and at least one turn signal, so be prepared. Hand guards will protect your levers. I like barkbusters, but if you have the money to spare, the hdb (highway dirt bikes) guards are really nice, but pricey. Look at double take mirrors once you break yours. You can get new turn signals on ebay from china super cheap (order several sets so you have spares).
Rob
'06-'13 (current) klx250s will accept a '97-'07 klx300r cylinder. The '93-'96 klx250r will not accept a '97-'07 klx300r cylinder; it's the same engine family, but the counter bore in the cases of the early 250r was too small to accept the later 300r cylinder skirt.
The 80's klx were completely different, so also will not take accept the 300 parts.
The 80's klx were completely different, so also will not take accept the 300 parts.
Good info.
klx250S Tuning Spread Sheet
I made a public spread sheet for everyone to share their setups.
Hopefully this will become a useful reference for everyone and will stay updated. When I owned mopeds there was a very good community and a very extensive spreadsheet, it was super helpful. The spreadsheet is fully public and editable to all so please feel free to add more than just your info but also be careful when making changes to the main structure of it.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...FE&usp=sharing
Hopefully this will become a useful reference for everyone and will stay updated. When I owned mopeds there was a very good community and a very extensive spreadsheet, it was super helpful. The spreadsheet is fully public and editable to all so please feel free to add more than just your info but also be careful when making changes to the main structure of it.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...FE&usp=sharing
My bike is easier to start since...
That's one reason you check the actual fuel level with a piece of clear plastic tube instead of just the static height of the float. Things ranging from an unusual needle/seat interface, a stiff float pin interface, abnormal buoyancy in the float, etc. can all give a different "real" fuel level while you can still get the correct listed static float height. It's not common, but it happens. Glad you got it to respond to your satisfaction.
KACR & Cold Starting:
www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s/kacr-cold-starting
1) All weights are wet, ready to ride, with a full gas tank
2) All weights are from a national motorcycle magazine road test for which they actually weighed the motorcycle -- no manufactuer's numbers here.
I realize it is perverse publish weight with a full gas tank, therefore penalizing the manufacturers for providing additional gas capacity to a stock motorcycle. As adventure riders, that's one of the things we are always screaming about. Unfortunately, weight with a full tank is the only number I can find that is comparable. Wet weight with an empty gas tank would be the most fair comparison, but it is hard to find.
Motorcycle Consumer News is a helpful resource to have all those weights listed together, but the MCN numbers are consistently lighter than the weights from other sources, and I suspect they are using the half tank of fuel method for determining wet weight.
One of the frustrating things about this project is the reminder that the magazines don't take dual sports very seriously. For example, the KLX250S is one of the more significant additions to the dual sport world in the last few years, yet Cycle World treated it with a one page glossover and no spec sheet at all. The TE610 has been featured in several articles, including comparisons of sorts (Anywhere, Anytime, May 2006 Cycle World, 310 lbs dry) but never with an all up weight. I'm hoping that will change as the new models hit the floor this spring. But it's not like the good old days when Art Friedman was editor of Motorcyclist and dual sports were part of every third issue.
Since dual sports typically hold between 2 and 2.5 gallons, I'll note those that are carrying 3 gallons or more, and readers can do the math if they want to see where a bike might rank with less gasoline. (6 lbs/gallon)
From heaviest to lightest (street legal dual sports only) here they are:
BMW R1150GS Adventure, 604 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (8.0 gallons)
BMW R1200GS Adventure, 581 lbs, Motorcyclist, Feb. 2007 (8.7 gallons)
Aprilia Caponord, 575 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (6.6 gallons)
BMW R1100GS Adventure, 572 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1994, July 1995 (6.6 gallons)
Triumph Tiger, 566 lbs, Cycle World, Aug. 1995 (6.6 gallons)
Triumph Tiger, 565 lbs, Motorcyclist, July 1995 (6.5 gallons)
Triumph Tiger 955i, 555 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (6.3 gallons)
BMW 1200GS, 544 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 2004
BMW R100GS Paris-Dakar, 535 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1990 (9.3 gallons)
Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom, 530 lbs, Motorcyclist, May. 2005
Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom, 524 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (5.8 gallons)
Triumph Scrambler, 522 lbs, Cycle World, May 2006 (4.4 gallons)
KTM 990 Adventure, 517 lbs, Motorcyclist, Feb. 2007 (5.8 gallons)
Triumph Tiger 2007, 512 lbs, Motorcyclist (online) (5.2 gallons)
Buell XB12X Ulysses, 510 lbs, Motorcyclist, Feb. 2007 (4.4 gallons)
BMW R100GS, 508 lbs, Cycle, July 1991 (5.7 gallons)
Buell XB12X Ulysses, 496 lbs, Cycle World, Sept. 2005 (4.4 gallons)
KTM 950 Adventure, 495 lbs, Motorcyclist, Jan. 2004 (6.6 gallons)
KTM 950 Adventure, 493 lbs, Cycle World, July 2003 (6.6 gallons)
BMW R100GS, 491 lbs, Cycle, June 1988 (5.7 gallons)
BMW R100GS, 485 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 485 lbs, Sport Rider, May 2008 (5.8 gallons)
Kawasaki Versys, 457 lbs, Motorcyclist, April 2008 (5.0 gallons)
Honda XL600V Transalp, 448 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
BMW G650GS, 451 lbs, Motorcyclist, May 2009 (4.0 gallons)
KTM 950 R Supermoto, 449 lbs, Motorcyclist, (online)
BMW F650ST, 444 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1997
Kawasaki KLR650, 442 lbs, Cycle World, Nov. 2007 (6.1 gallons)
Honda XL600V Transalp, 442 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1989, (3.9 gallons)
Kawasaki KLR650, 435 lbs, Motorcyclist, May 2009 (6.1 gallons)
Kawasaki Tengai, 424 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990
Kawasaki Tengai, 421 lbs, Cycle, July 1990 (6.1 gallons)
KTM 620 Adventure, 404 lbs, Cycle World, July 1998
Kawasaki KLR650, 401 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sep. 1989, Oct. 1990, Sept. 1992 (6.1 gallons)
Kawasaki KLR650, 399 lbs, Cycle, August 1988 (6.1 gallons)
Kawasaki KLR650, 398 lbs, Cycle, April 1987 (6.1 gallons)
Suzuki DR650S, 388 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1992
Suzuki DR650S, 387 lbs, Cycle, Dec. 1990 (5.5 gallons)
Suzuki DR650S, 386 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990
Honda NX650, 383 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
Yamaha XT600, 383 lbs, (1st yr. electric start) Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990, Sept. 1992
Honda NX650, 378 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1988
Kawasaki KLX650, 379 lbs, Motorcyclist, Nov. 1993
Suzuki DR650, 367 lbs, Cycle World, Feb. 96
BMW G650XMoto, 363 lbs, Motorcyclist, April 2008
Honda XR650L, 347 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1992, Nov. 1993
Kawasaki KLR600, 341 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1984
Yamaha XT600W, 337 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
KTM 690 Enduro R, 336 lbs, Cycle World, June 2009
Honda XL350K2, 331 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1976
Honda XL600R, 327 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1983
Yamaha XT500G, 325 lbs, Cycle, April 1980
Honda XL250K3, 323 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Yamaha XT550J, 322 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1982
Suzuki DRZ400SM, 322 lbs, Cycle World, June 2005
Honda XL350 Enduro, 319 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1973
Yamaha XT500C, 319 lbs, Cycle, May 1976
Kawasak KLR250, 314 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1989
Honda XL500S, 313 lbs, Cycle, May 1980
Suzuki TS400L Apache, 313 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1974
Kawasaki KLR250, 312 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 1990
Honda XL250K1, 308 lbs, Cycle, July 1974
Suzuki DR350S, 306 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1990
Can-Am 500 Sabre 305 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1982
Suzuki DR350S, 304 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990
Suzuki TS400J Apache, 302 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1972
Yamaha WR250R, 301 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 2008
Suzuki SP400T, 298 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1980
Honda XL350R, 298 lbs, Cycle, May, 1984
Yamaha XT350, 298 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1985
Honda XL250R, 295 lbs, Cycle, April 1983
Yamaha DT400B, 294 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1974
Yamaha DT360A, 292 lbs, Cycle, March 1974
Yamaha RT3-360, 290 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1973
Yamaha DT250F, 290 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1979
Suzuki SP370, 290 lbs, Cycle, July 1978
Yamaha DT3-250, 289 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1973
Honda NX250, 289 lbs, Cycle, May 1988
Honda NX250L 289 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 1990
Suzuki TS250C, 288 lbs, Cycle, May 1978
Honda XR250L, 288 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1991
Honda XR250L, 288 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 1990
Yamaha DT250C, 288 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Honda MT250K2, 284 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Yamaha DT250D, 283 lbs, Cycle, May 1977
Husqvarna SMR450, 283 lbs, Cycle World, April 2007
Kawasaki 250 F11A, 282 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Honda MT250, 281 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1973
Montesa 250 King Scorpion, 279 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1974
Honda XL250S, 278 lbs, Cycle, July 1978
Yamaha TW200WC, 278 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1989
Suzuki TC185 Ranger, 278 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1974
KTM 450EXC, 276 lbs, Cycle World, June 2007
TM EN450F, 275 lbs, Cycle World, Dec. 2007
Montesa Enduro 360H, 275 lbs, Cycle, Dec. 1978
Harley-Davidson SX250, 275 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
BMW G450x, 274lbs, Dirt Rider, April 2009
Hercules 250 Enduro, 271 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1977
Honda NX125, 269 lbs, Cycle, October 1988
Hercules 175GS Enduro, 268 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1976
Yamaha XT225, 268 lbs, Motorcyclist, Nov. 1992, Feb. 1995
Can-Am 250 TNT Enduro, 267 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1974
Honda CRF230L, 267 lbs, Dirt Bike, May 2008
Penton Mint 400 Enduro, 265 lbs, Cycle, May 1975
Yamaha XT250K, 265 lbs, Cycle, March 1983
Yamaha XT250G, 265 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1980
Bultaco 370 Frontera, 265 lbs, Cycle, May 1977
Can-Am 250 TNT, 264 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Honda XL175, 264 lbs, Cycle, September 1978
Kawasaki F-6 175, 263 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1973
Penton MC6 250 Enduro, 261 lbs, Cycle, June 1977
Husqvarna TE250, 260 lbs, Cycle World, April 2004
Montesa V75 250 Enduro, 259 lbs, Cycle, March 1975
Kawasaki F-6 125, 259 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1973
Bultaco 250 Frontera, 256 lbs, Cycle, May 1977
Honda XL175, 253 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1973
Can-Am 175 Enduro, 251 lbs, Cycle, Dec. 1973
Penton 175 Enduro, 251 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1976
Penton 250 Hare Scrambler, 250 lbs, Cycle, April 1974
Honda XL185S, 250 lbs, Cycle, May 1979
Bultaco 250 Alpina, 242 lbs, Cycle, June 1974
Suzuki TS185 Sierra, 238 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1974
Kawasaki KS125, 236 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1975
Honda XL125K1, 235 lbs, Cycle, April 1975
Kawasaki KE125A5, 234 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1978
Yamaha DT175E, 234 lbs, Cycle, August 1978
Honda TRL200 Reflex, 231 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1986
Honda SL125K1, 228 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1973
Suzuki TS125K, 221 lbs, Cycle, July 1973
Honda MT125, 220 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1973
2) All weights are from a national motorcycle magazine road test for which they actually weighed the motorcycle -- no manufactuer's numbers here.
I realize it is perverse publish weight with a full gas tank, therefore penalizing the manufacturers for providing additional gas capacity to a stock motorcycle. As adventure riders, that's one of the things we are always screaming about. Unfortunately, weight with a full tank is the only number I can find that is comparable. Wet weight with an empty gas tank would be the most fair comparison, but it is hard to find.
Motorcycle Consumer News is a helpful resource to have all those weights listed together, but the MCN numbers are consistently lighter than the weights from other sources, and I suspect they are using the half tank of fuel method for determining wet weight.
One of the frustrating things about this project is the reminder that the magazines don't take dual sports very seriously. For example, the KLX250S is one of the more significant additions to the dual sport world in the last few years, yet Cycle World treated it with a one page glossover and no spec sheet at all. The TE610 has been featured in several articles, including comparisons of sorts (Anywhere, Anytime, May 2006 Cycle World, 310 lbs dry) but never with an all up weight. I'm hoping that will change as the new models hit the floor this spring. But it's not like the good old days when Art Friedman was editor of Motorcyclist and dual sports were part of every third issue.
Since dual sports typically hold between 2 and 2.5 gallons, I'll note those that are carrying 3 gallons or more, and readers can do the math if they want to see where a bike might rank with less gasoline. (6 lbs/gallon)
From heaviest to lightest (street legal dual sports only) here they are:
BMW R1150GS Adventure, 604 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (8.0 gallons)
BMW R1200GS Adventure, 581 lbs, Motorcyclist, Feb. 2007 (8.7 gallons)
Aprilia Caponord, 575 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (6.6 gallons)
BMW R1100GS Adventure, 572 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1994, July 1995 (6.6 gallons)
Triumph Tiger, 566 lbs, Cycle World, Aug. 1995 (6.6 gallons)
Triumph Tiger, 565 lbs, Motorcyclist, July 1995 (6.5 gallons)
Triumph Tiger 955i, 555 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (6.3 gallons)
BMW 1200GS, 544 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 2004
BMW R100GS Paris-Dakar, 535 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1990 (9.3 gallons)
Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom, 530 lbs, Motorcyclist, May. 2005
Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom, 524 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 2002 (5.8 gallons)
Triumph Scrambler, 522 lbs, Cycle World, May 2006 (4.4 gallons)
KTM 990 Adventure, 517 lbs, Motorcyclist, Feb. 2007 (5.8 gallons)
Triumph Tiger 2007, 512 lbs, Motorcyclist (online) (5.2 gallons)
Buell XB12X Ulysses, 510 lbs, Motorcyclist, Feb. 2007 (4.4 gallons)
BMW R100GS, 508 lbs, Cycle, July 1991 (5.7 gallons)
Buell XB12X Ulysses, 496 lbs, Cycle World, Sept. 2005 (4.4 gallons)
KTM 950 Adventure, 495 lbs, Motorcyclist, Jan. 2004 (6.6 gallons)
KTM 950 Adventure, 493 lbs, Cycle World, July 2003 (6.6 gallons)
BMW R100GS, 491 lbs, Cycle, June 1988 (5.7 gallons)
BMW R100GS, 485 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 485 lbs, Sport Rider, May 2008 (5.8 gallons)
Kawasaki Versys, 457 lbs, Motorcyclist, April 2008 (5.0 gallons)
Honda XL600V Transalp, 448 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
BMW G650GS, 451 lbs, Motorcyclist, May 2009 (4.0 gallons)
KTM 950 R Supermoto, 449 lbs, Motorcyclist, (online)
BMW F650ST, 444 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1997
Kawasaki KLR650, 442 lbs, Cycle World, Nov. 2007 (6.1 gallons)
Honda XL600V Transalp, 442 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1989, (3.9 gallons)
Kawasaki KLR650, 435 lbs, Motorcyclist, May 2009 (6.1 gallons)
Kawasaki Tengai, 424 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990
Kawasaki Tengai, 421 lbs, Cycle, July 1990 (6.1 gallons)
KTM 620 Adventure, 404 lbs, Cycle World, July 1998
Kawasaki KLR650, 401 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sep. 1989, Oct. 1990, Sept. 1992 (6.1 gallons)
Kawasaki KLR650, 399 lbs, Cycle, August 1988 (6.1 gallons)
Kawasaki KLR650, 398 lbs, Cycle, April 1987 (6.1 gallons)
Suzuki DR650S, 388 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1992
Suzuki DR650S, 387 lbs, Cycle, Dec. 1990 (5.5 gallons)
Suzuki DR650S, 386 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990
Honda NX650, 383 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
Yamaha XT600, 383 lbs, (1st yr. electric start) Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990, Sept. 1992
Honda NX650, 378 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1988
Kawasaki KLX650, 379 lbs, Motorcyclist, Nov. 1993
Suzuki DR650, 367 lbs, Cycle World, Feb. 96
BMW G650XMoto, 363 lbs, Motorcyclist, April 2008
Honda XR650L, 347 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1992, Nov. 1993
Kawasaki KLR600, 341 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1984
Yamaha XT600W, 337 lbs, Motorcyclist, Sept. 1989
KTM 690 Enduro R, 336 lbs, Cycle World, June 2009
Honda XL350K2, 331 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1976
Honda XL600R, 327 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1983
Yamaha XT500G, 325 lbs, Cycle, April 1980
Honda XL250K3, 323 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Yamaha XT550J, 322 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1982
Suzuki DRZ400SM, 322 lbs, Cycle World, June 2005
Honda XL350 Enduro, 319 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1973
Yamaha XT500C, 319 lbs, Cycle, May 1976
Kawasak KLR250, 314 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1989
Honda XL500S, 313 lbs, Cycle, May 1980
Suzuki TS400L Apache, 313 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1974
Kawasaki KLR250, 312 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 1990
Honda XL250K1, 308 lbs, Cycle, July 1974
Suzuki DR350S, 306 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1990
Can-Am 500 Sabre 305 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1982
Suzuki DR350S, 304 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 1990
Suzuki TS400J Apache, 302 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1972
Yamaha WR250R, 301 lbs, Motorcyclist, Oct. 2008
Suzuki SP400T, 298 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1980
Honda XL350R, 298 lbs, Cycle, May, 1984
Yamaha XT350, 298 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1985
Honda XL250R, 295 lbs, Cycle, April 1983
Yamaha DT400B, 294 lbs, Cycle, Nov. 1974
Yamaha DT360A, 292 lbs, Cycle, March 1974
Yamaha RT3-360, 290 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1973
Yamaha DT250F, 290 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1979
Suzuki SP370, 290 lbs, Cycle, July 1978
Yamaha DT3-250, 289 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1973
Honda NX250, 289 lbs, Cycle, May 1988
Honda NX250L 289 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 1990
Suzuki TS250C, 288 lbs, Cycle, May 1978
Honda XR250L, 288 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1991
Honda XR250L, 288 lbs, Motorcyclist, Dec. 1990
Yamaha DT250C, 288 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Honda MT250K2, 284 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Yamaha DT250D, 283 lbs, Cycle, May 1977
Husqvarna SMR450, 283 lbs, Cycle World, April 2007
Kawasaki 250 F11A, 282 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Honda MT250, 281 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1973
Montesa 250 King Scorpion, 279 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1974
Honda XL250S, 278 lbs, Cycle, July 1978
Yamaha TW200WC, 278 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1989
Suzuki TC185 Ranger, 278 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1974
KTM 450EXC, 276 lbs, Cycle World, June 2007
TM EN450F, 275 lbs, Cycle World, Dec. 2007
Montesa Enduro 360H, 275 lbs, Cycle, Dec. 1978
Harley-Davidson SX250, 275 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
BMW G450x, 274lbs, Dirt Rider, April 2009
Hercules 250 Enduro, 271 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1977
Honda NX125, 269 lbs, Cycle, October 1988
Hercules 175GS Enduro, 268 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1976
Yamaha XT225, 268 lbs, Motorcyclist, Nov. 1992, Feb. 1995
Can-Am 250 TNT Enduro, 267 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1974
Honda CRF230L, 267 lbs, Dirt Bike, May 2008
Penton Mint 400 Enduro, 265 lbs, Cycle, May 1975
Yamaha XT250K, 265 lbs, Cycle, March 1983
Yamaha XT250G, 265 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1980
Bultaco 370 Frontera, 265 lbs, Cycle, May 1977
Can-Am 250 TNT, 264 lbs, Motorcyclist, March 1976
Honda XL175, 264 lbs, Cycle, September 1978
Kawasaki F-6 175, 263 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1973
Penton MC6 250 Enduro, 261 lbs, Cycle, June 1977
Husqvarna TE250, 260 lbs, Cycle World, April 2004
Montesa V75 250 Enduro, 259 lbs, Cycle, March 1975
Kawasaki F-6 125, 259 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1973
Bultaco 250 Frontera, 256 lbs, Cycle, May 1977
Honda XL175, 253 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1973
Can-Am 175 Enduro, 251 lbs, Cycle, Dec. 1973
Penton 175 Enduro, 251 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1976
Penton 250 Hare Scrambler, 250 lbs, Cycle, April 1974
Honda XL185S, 250 lbs, Cycle, May 1979
Bultaco 250 Alpina, 242 lbs, Cycle, June 1974
Suzuki TS185 Sierra, 238 lbs, Cycle, Sept. 1974
Kawasaki KS125, 236 lbs, Cycle, Feb. 1975
Honda XL125K1, 235 lbs, Cycle, April 1975
Kawasaki KE125A5, 234 lbs, Cycle, Oct. 1978
Yamaha DT175E, 234 lbs, Cycle, August 1978
Honda TRL200 Reflex, 231 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1986
Honda SL125K1, 228 lbs, Cycle, Jan. 1973
Suzuki TS125K, 221 lbs, Cycle, July 1973
Honda MT125, 220 lbs, Cycle, Aug. 1973
Clutch life expectancy
Last edited by klasjm; 11-25-2013 at 09:29 PM.
#26
06-08-2013 | 12:43 PM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 63
From: Fond Du Lac, WI
1st Gear Member
It's time for 351. And other fiddling and farkeling. This thread will be my photo documentary.
Questions and answers.
Chime in or follow along if you wish.
I welcome advice.
Contents:
Tear Down Part I (first posts, below. Dirty bike pics, skid plate, seat, tank, ramblings)
Tear Down Part II (oil filter, carb, right side cover, oil pickup screen, clutch basket, cam cover)
Tear Down Part III (cams, head, cylinder)
Grease and Gears (rear wheel spacers, sprocket)
New Paperweight (351 jug arrives)
Wires, SS Brake Line, Float Bowl Level check
Build Part I (head gasket frustration)
Clutch (EBC Dirt racer kit and Barnett springs)
Kick-Starter (pricey insurance)
Headlight support bracket, tool thoughts, clean head, KACR
Set cam timing
Muffler Hanger Bracket
************************************************** *****************
Other 351 install threads (if you know of others, PM me and I'll put a link here)
Dan888: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-links-32538/
************************************************** *****************
Bill Blue Web Site: Home Page
************************************************** *****************
13/49 is very low gearing. For me, as a noob to dirt and steep nasty rocky climbs a year ago, it was perfect. After a few months with this setup, including first trip to Moab and a bunch of gnarly stuff, graduated to the 14, then 15. Several rides ago, on a planned excursion to some difficult stuff, the 13 went back on, and good it did. And low gears are better in snow.
With the 351, the rear will go back to stock 42 or a 45, and I'll continue to use the 13/14/15 setup up front depending on the ride.
Questions and answers.
Chime in or follow along if you wish.
I welcome advice.
Contents:
Tear Down Part I (first posts, below. Dirty bike pics, skid plate, seat, tank, ramblings)
Tear Down Part II (oil filter, carb, right side cover, oil pickup screen, clutch basket, cam cover)
Tear Down Part III (cams, head, cylinder)
Grease and Gears (rear wheel spacers, sprocket)
New Paperweight (351 jug arrives)
Wires, SS Brake Line, Float Bowl Level check
Build Part I (head gasket frustration)
Clutch (EBC Dirt racer kit and Barnett springs)
Kick-Starter (pricey insurance)
Headlight support bracket, tool thoughts, clean head, KACR
Set cam timing
Muffler Hanger Bracket
************************************************** *****************
Other 351 install threads (if you know of others, PM me and I'll put a link here)
Dan888: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-links-32538/
************************************************** *****************
Bill Blue Web Site: Home Page
************************************************** *****************
13/49 is very low gearing. For me, as a noob to dirt and steep nasty rocky climbs a year ago, it was perfect. After a few months with this setup, including first trip to Moab and a bunch of gnarly stuff, graduated to the 14, then 15. Several rides ago, on a planned excursion to some difficult stuff, the 13 went back on, and good it did. And low gears are better in snow.
With the 351, the rear will go back to stock 42 or a 45, and I'll continue to use the 13/14/15 setup up front depending on the ride.
#27
06-08-2013 | 12:47 PM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 63
From: Fond Du Lac, WI
1st Gear Member
It's time for 351. And other fiddling and farkeling. This thread will be my photo documentary.
Questions and answers.
Chime in or follow along if you wish.
I welcome advice.
Contents:
Tear Down Part I (first posts, below. Dirty bike pics, skid plate, seat, tank, ramblings)
Tear Down Part II (oil filter, carb, right side cover, oil pickup screen, clutch basket, cam cover)
Tear Down Part III (cams, head, cylinder)
Grease and Gears (rear wheel spacers, sprocket)
New Paperweight (351 jug arrives)
Wires, SS Brake Line, Float Bowl Level check
Build Part I (head gasket frustration)
Clutch (EBC Dirt racer kit and Barnett springs)
Kick-Starter (pricey insurance)
Headlight support bracket, tool thoughts, clean head, KACR
Set cam timing
Muffler Hanger Bracket
************************************************** *****************
Other 351 install threads (if you know of others, PM me and I'll put a link here)
Dan888: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-links-32538/
************************************************** *****************
Bill Blue Web Site: Home Page
************************************************** *****************
13/49 is very low gearing. For me, as a noob to dirt and steep nasty rocky climbs a year ago, it was perfect. After a few months with this setup, including first trip to Moab and a bunch of gnarly stuff, graduated to the 14, then 15. Several rides ago, on a planned excursion to some difficult stuff, the 13 went back on, and good it did. And low gears are better in snow.
With the 351, the rear will go back to stock 42 or a 45, and I'll continue to use the 13/14/15 setup up front depending on the ride.
Questions and answers.
Chime in or follow along if you wish.
I welcome advice.
Contents:
Tear Down Part I (first posts, below. Dirty bike pics, skid plate, seat, tank, ramblings)
Tear Down Part II (oil filter, carb, right side cover, oil pickup screen, clutch basket, cam cover)
Tear Down Part III (cams, head, cylinder)
Grease and Gears (rear wheel spacers, sprocket)
New Paperweight (351 jug arrives)
Wires, SS Brake Line, Float Bowl Level check
Build Part I (head gasket frustration)
Clutch (EBC Dirt racer kit and Barnett springs)
Kick-Starter (pricey insurance)
Headlight support bracket, tool thoughts, clean head, KACR
Set cam timing
Muffler Hanger Bracket
************************************************** *****************
Other 351 install threads (if you know of others, PM me and I'll put a link here)
Dan888: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-links-32538/
************************************************** *****************
Bill Blue Web Site: Home Page
************************************************** *****************
13/49 is very low gearing. For me, as a noob to dirt and steep nasty rocky climbs a year ago, it was perfect. After a few months with this setup, including first trip to Moab and a bunch of gnarly stuff, graduated to the 14, then 15. Several rides ago, on a planned excursion to some difficult stuff, the 13 went back on, and good it did. And low gears are better in snow.
With the 351, the rear will go back to stock 42 or a 45, and I'll continue to use the 13/14/15 setup up front depending on the ride.
LINKY
-KLX is lighter in weight. (crf250l is 30 pounds more then the klx )
-KLX has adjustable suspension(many honda owners need to change the shock)
-KLX has folding gear lever tip. Honda has solid gear lever tip(idiotic), Honda has tendency to bend the gear shaft. I bent the whole pedal from KLX and the shaft was ok, KLX has dirt style strong gear shaft, honda has street engine based light weight thin gear shaft.
-KLX has way more aftermarket parts and tuning possibilities, big bores and such.
-KLX has more ground clearance
-KLX has fuel cap with a hinge(honda cap drops off).
-KLX has two sided full chain guide, Honda has only outer side chain guide.
-KLX jumps better(lighter, better suspension)
Some argue that honda is better because it has EFI, well in europe the KLX has EFI too.
JP
-KLX has adjustable suspension(many honda owners need to change the shock)
-KLX has folding gear lever tip. Honda has solid gear lever tip(idiotic), Honda has tendency to bend the gear shaft. I bent the whole pedal from KLX and the shaft was ok, KLX has dirt style strong gear shaft, honda has street engine based light weight thin gear shaft.
-KLX has way more aftermarket parts and tuning possibilities, big bores and such.
-KLX has more ground clearance
-KLX has fuel cap with a hinge(honda cap drops off).
-KLX has two sided full chain guide, Honda has only outer side chain guide.
-KLX jumps better(lighter, better suspension)
Some argue that honda is better because it has EFI, well in europe the KLX has EFI too.
JP
Great Ride Report
Last edited by klasjm; 04-19-2014 at 12:49 PM.
#28
08-22-2013 | 02:23 PM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 63
From: Fond Du Lac, WI
1st Gear Member
Get a hammer plus an old big screw driver & bash the pre-load ring clockwise (downwards) until the spring is much firmer! This will raise the rear end by a good couple of inches when your sitting on the bike. What do you weigh? If less than 180lbs winding up the spring will be OK.... but if you weigh more than that.....read on!
But what you gain in height you will loose in low speed shock absorption by being a tad to firm, by over winding the pre-load. This will work in the short term but when all your fillings have fallen out & your @ss in numb, spend 90 bucks on a firmer progressive spring!
I did exactly that for nearly a year (teeth & numbness etc) & then gave in & got the new spring which was firmer at high speed & had the bonus of a taller ride height with better plusher low speed shock absorption with way less rear end sag.
EDIT: Forgot to mention playing with your compression & rebound clickers on the rear shock! They really help with sag & ride height as well.
But what you gain in height you will loose in low speed shock absorption by being a tad to firm, by over winding the pre-load. This will work in the short term but when all your fillings have fallen out & your @ss in numb, spend 90 bucks on a firmer progressive spring!
I did exactly that for nearly a year (teeth & numbness etc) & then gave in & got the new spring which was firmer at high speed & had the bonus of a taller ride height with better plusher low speed shock absorption with way less rear end sag.
EDIT: Forgot to mention playing with your compression & rebound clickers on the rear shock! They really help with sag & ride height as well.
#29
04-19-2014 | 12:51 PM
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 63
From: Fond Du Lac, WI
1st Gear Member
klx250s FAQ
I have a thread going over on Kawasaki forums, but I figured I'd throw this out on here as well.
I just swapped in LED Lights in the speedometer and tachometer on my 06 klx. I'm trying to figure out which color to go with.
All cool white, probably the closest to the factory color back lighting.
Cool white on the speedometer and green on the tachometer. Side by side comparison.
Or all green.
I also swapped in LED Lights on the brake/tail light, license plate light, high beam indicator, and green neutral light indicator. I'm sure I freed up some amps considering all of the stock bulbs listed above drew about 52 watts. What color lights for the dash do you think I should go with? Thanks, Fred.
I just swapped in LED Lights in the speedometer and tachometer on my 06 klx. I'm trying to figure out which color to go with.
All cool white, probably the closest to the factory color back lighting.
Cool white on the speedometer and green on the tachometer. Side by side comparison.
Or all green.
I also swapped in LED Lights on the brake/tail light, license plate light, high beam indicator, and green neutral light indicator. I'm sure I freed up some amps considering all of the stock bulbs listed above drew about 52 watts. What color lights for the dash do you think I should go with? Thanks, Fred.
www.kawasakiforums.com/forum 2006-klx-250-led-light-upgrade
my justification: KLX is my first bike. stock, it helped me learn to ride.
as i got better, the bike was modded to get better too.
while my friends have all bought and sold multiple bikes in the 5 years i've had this,
i just keep amping this one.
yes, i've put some $$ into it but i don't regret one cent, and i've spent a whole lot less than the guys buying and selling.
i know this bike like the back of my hand at this point -
and its so incredibly reliable i don't want anything else.
now with 351 and full suspension rebuild, its a beast in the woods.
as i got better, the bike was modded to get better too.
while my friends have all bought and sold multiple bikes in the 5 years i've had this,
i just keep amping this one.
yes, i've put some $$ into it but i don't regret one cent, and i've spent a whole lot less than the guys buying and selling.
i know this bike like the back of my hand at this point -
and its so incredibly reliable i don't want anything else.
now with 351 and full suspension rebuild, its a beast in the woods.
Just did some stuff with the KLX.
After looking at the exhaust cam with the KACR and having people say the bike works without the KACR I was going to press it out and leave it out, knowing if I did the Marcelino cam timing mod it would be in the wrong place. But I hated to go to the effort to do all that without being positive, so I found another solution:
Coat hanger!
I pinned the KACR in the run position, shoes full out. A coat hanger had the right size wire, a U bend with a 41mm straight in the middle, stick the ends throug the holes, bend the ends up and trim - No KACR operating anymore! :clap I can see if the bike starts fine without the KACR with the fix being a wire cutter and replace spring away. Now I can do the cam mod and undo it if I don't like it, no pressing things apart.
I also didn't like the way the electronic speedo wire hung out ready to snag, so I did a number there too.
Drill and zip-tie along the trailing edge of the fork protector. I tried to put it behind the guard, but was concerned about the slider coming down and damaging the wire if the forks bottomed. I still may make a small aluminum shield at the bottom to avoid snagging there too. I just don't trust letting it hang out there when riding through any brush or such. Just the perfect opportunity to rip the wires out.
After looking at the exhaust cam with the KACR and having people say the bike works without the KACR I was going to press it out and leave it out, knowing if I did the Marcelino cam timing mod it would be in the wrong place. But I hated to go to the effort to do all that without being positive, so I found another solution:
Coat hanger!
I pinned the KACR in the run position, shoes full out. A coat hanger had the right size wire, a U bend with a 41mm straight in the middle, stick the ends throug the holes, bend the ends up and trim - No KACR operating anymore! :clap I can see if the bike starts fine without the KACR with the fix being a wire cutter and replace spring away. Now I can do the cam mod and undo it if I don't like it, no pressing things apart.
I also didn't like the way the electronic speedo wire hung out ready to snag, so I did a number there too.
Drill and zip-tie along the trailing edge of the fork protector. I tried to put it behind the guard, but was concerned about the slider coming down and damaging the wire if the forks bottomed. I still may make a small aluminum shield at the bottom to avoid snagging there too. I just don't trust letting it hang out there when riding through any brush or such. Just the perfect opportunity to rip the wires out.
My bike fired within a second this morning at about 50F. Off choke in about 20 seconds as I rode down the road.
I reworked the carb by the following, plus the Marcelino Cam Mod and disabled the compression release. That information is pretty common knowledge as a fix for the stock jetting, no idea who did the ground work for it.
16009-1912 Kawi Needle-Jet, N1TC
92037-1401 Kawi Clamp, Jet Needle
92143-1667 Kawi Collar
Needle clip slot 2 down from the top
92063-1069 Kawi Main Jet #125 or 92063-1074 Kawi Main Jet #128
92064-1108 pilot jet #40 Air screw at 2 turns out to start
drill the slide vent to 7/64ths
Airboxsnorkel (14073-1577) high flow KDX unit
No real tricks. I did also add a Dial-A-Jet to take up the slack in the jetting variations by temperature or altitude and such.
I was surprised at how quickly it fired up compared to the stock set up the first time I started it up after doing the mod and the carb. No need for any compression release.
I reworked the carb by the following, plus the Marcelino Cam Mod and disabled the compression release. That information is pretty common knowledge as a fix for the stock jetting, no idea who did the ground work for it.
16009-1912 Kawi Needle-Jet, N1TC
92037-1401 Kawi Clamp, Jet Needle
92143-1667 Kawi Collar
Needle clip slot 2 down from the top
92063-1069 Kawi Main Jet #125 or 92063-1074 Kawi Main Jet #128
92064-1108 pilot jet #40 Air screw at 2 turns out to start
drill the slide vent to 7/64ths
Airboxsnorkel (14073-1577) high flow KDX unit
No real tricks. I did also add a Dial-A-Jet to take up the slack in the jetting variations by temperature or altitude and such.
I was surprised at how quickly it fired up compared to the stock set up the first time I started it up after doing the mod and the carb. No need for any compression release.
I don't know if you verified if it is lean. I did so by pulling the enrichener **** (aka choke) which will make your mix a bit richer. If the hesitation is less or goes away, it proves there is a lean condition.
My bike wouldn't hesitate under full throttle, but would under constant throttle around and above 6000 rpm. Pull the choke and it went away. I had a shimmed stock needle and went to the KLX300 needle in mine. Point is the choke (enrichener) may give you verification it is lean or not.
My bike wouldn't hesitate under full throttle, but would under constant throttle around and above 6000 rpm. Pull the choke and it went away. I had a shimmed stock needle and went to the KLX300 needle in mine. Point is the choke (enrichener) may give you verification it is lean or not.
I don't know if I said it here, but with a bit of research I learned the Hondas and some others do not use compression releases. Plus on the unofficial Kaw forum some riders there have taken the springs off the release supposedly allowing it to open and not work quite as readily. So I figure why not. Heck some of the guys with the KLX650s have taken them off their cams too, but that bike turns so slow I'm afraid mine wouldn't start. I'm thinking the 250 should be no problem though.
As Lutz indicated, the MSR version of the Honda XR650L is one of the better choices unless you have very, very small feet. Mild steel is arguably the better choice for these shifters as they are more maleable and tend to damage the shifter shaft much less often than super stiff shifters in a crash. The MSR version can easily be tweaked to be closer or further away from the engine cover to suit your preference. The stock shifter is way too short for most people with normal sized feet IMO, and they tend to suck if you wear actual off road dirt bike boots. The MSR XR650L shifter is stiff enough without being too stiff. It can be bent back into perfect shape with a vise and wood blocks when back home, and you can usually bend it back in the field to finish the ride.
Get the word "from the horse's mouth" by going to the Owner Center Kawasaki parts site (U.S. mainly). Pick the proper model, year, whatever then get to the parts diagram. In the parts diagram you click on the part number in the list. A pop up window comes up with a ? above the part number window, click on that ? to find what models the part will fit. Amazing how many parts cross over. Thing is on some things you have to do some sleuthing. If a rotor fits multiple models then those hubs have the same pattern. Differences may be in finish (color or bare) or machining for speedo. You can learn what hubs are interchangeable - you'd be suprised. From there it might require actually seeing and measuring a part.
I use it for my own bikes, questions people in forums might have, and for my cam chain tenisioner sideline. I find one tensioner body fits 263 year/models of bikes, because they all use the same gasket. There is a general number for an item type, then a true part number for a model that appears on the package of the part and the diagram list. I honestly don't believe there is a simple method to track Kaw part numbers, like there is for Honda and Yamaha. Honda's middle three indicated a specific model on which the part first was used, if I remember right. Oddly enough, though, they have cases where the same basic design part is made under two part numbers - like some certain gaskets I've bought.
Good stuff, book mark this site, you never know how it will help.
I use it for my own bikes, questions people in forums might have, and for my cam chain tenisioner sideline. I find one tensioner body fits 263 year/models of bikes, because they all use the same gasket. There is a general number for an item type, then a true part number for a model that appears on the package of the part and the diagram list. I honestly don't believe there is a simple method to track Kaw part numbers, like there is for Honda and Yamaha. Honda's middle three indicated a specific model on which the part first was used, if I remember right. Oddly enough, though, they have cases where the same basic design part is made under two part numbers - like some certain gaskets I've bought.
Good stuff, book mark this site, you never know how it will help.
Last edited by klasjm; 03-30-2015 at 01:44 AM.
#30
04-20-2014 | 04:15 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 866
From: SE Asia
Any guesses as to how and exactly where the overflow bottle on the Japanese farkles page has been moved to? It looks like there's some sort of universal bracket that's been
used to move it above the engine.
I've blown the pics up larger but it's still not that clear. I think it's been re-oriented side to side instead of front to rear as the original was.
Could come in handy when I try and fit up the CRF250 dual mufflers
used to move it above the engine.
I've blown the pics up larger but it's still not that clear. I think it's been re-oriented side to side instead of front to rear as the original was.
Could come in handy when I try and fit up the CRF250 dual mufflers