I think there is suppose to be a battery.

 

Depends on the model. There were dual sport and an off-road model of the KLX250 back then.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Pretty sure mine had a battery but I don't really want to add one back if I can run lights off the stator + capacitor.

Might get a big MTB riding light in case I get stuck out in the dark.

Got my signals on my fender. Not the greatest look but 10 bucks for both, and 20 for the stock light with the parts to make it dual filament.

 

Final update for tonight. I think it was topping out because of valve clearance. The PO must have put the shims back in the wrong places because one was too tight and the other loose. They also had the perfect shim sizes to get them both in spec when switched.

Couldn't get it running properly since the air filter was still wet (so I didnt use it)but it started again!

Will tune the air fuel again tomorrow when its early.

On the question list now.

The top end still sounds noisy is this normal for these bikes?

Cutting the screen behind the air filter: Good call or not?

Can I run a headlight, tail, and indicators off of the stator?

Have any of you rewound the stator like on planetKLX? Worth it? How long would you say it took?

 

Did you oil the filter?
Yes, they are kind of noisy, but I can't tell you if yours sounds normal.
I cut my screen and didn't notice a thing. Others say it helps with throttle response.
Don't know about the others.

 

Yes always. No point in running brand new oil through ****!

Doesn't seem to be a downside since the filter is way finer. Probably going to do it.

 

On the top end noise, you got your air box lid off, that causes a lot of noise, but maybe your talking about up near the head?
If you get your valves on the lose side of the spec (where you want to be), it seems to make a little more 'motor' noise. I wouldn't worry too much unless it is at 5000rpm-ish or it's a big knocking sound (rod).

 

Have a few more questions for the bike.

Been riding it for a few weeks now having a blast.

Wondering if anyone has jetting advice for me, should I get one of those Dynojet kits?

Also what are some good exhaust options? Is there any other bikes that have the same exhaust fit?

 

Header is stock. The aftermarket pipes should be somewhere around 1.375 ID. I have one in the garage. When I was selling Kaws around 2002-3 the trick for the 300R was to install a larger freer flowing head pipe/muffler and a pumper slide carb. 250 is pretty much the same deal.

In the U.S. market, according to Kawasaki's web site for parts, in 1995 the 250 dual sport was the KLR250, totally different engine. The KLX250R was the off road dual sport, no electric start, forerunner to the KLX300R. Probably no battery.


One solution to the rat muffler...

I'd trash the can, beyond help. If you need to go cheap google the KLR John Deere and you will find a thread where a rider got a $30 John Deere replacement muffler had a muffler shop make a mid-pipe and put it on his KLR650. I posted this information I found on the klr.net forum. If a rider wrapped the can with aluminum or stainless it would look totally like it belonged there.

Food for thought. If the OP could get an adapter his FMF probably has an adequate mid-pipe to make the cheap mod.

 

So put a bunch more time on the bike.

Planning to 351 overbore it in the new year.

Anyone have experience with it? I haven't really herd anything bad about it!

What does it require for jetting? Apparently its the same but I don't understand how.

Still looking into exhausts. Anyone got a used one?