klx250 2009/11 front & rear SAG
#31
01-20-2011, 03:25 PM
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: kootenay country BC Canada
Posts: 1,800
No thank you, 
According to race tech spring calculator, my stock front springs are 1.1 kg/mm and I NEED .47 kg/mm
Is also says my rear is a 6.8 and I NEED a 7.1 for my weight.
Look em up, its a free internet. Here
http://old.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...ork&bikeid=582
David
According to race tech spring calculator, my stock front springs are 1.1 kg/mm and I NEED .47 kg/mm
Is also says my rear is a 6.8 and I NEED a 7.1 for my weight.
Look em up, its a free internet. Here
http://old.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...ork&bikeid=582
David
#32
01-20-2011, 04:39 PM
FD, for me the hardest or most technical part was removing the peening at the bolt and end of the compression damping unit. And by that I mean that it is a step that doesn't just involve unbolting and bolting parts together...but it wasn't hard. A simple flat hand file was all that was needed. The neat thing with the RT system is that they also send an extensive DVD along with the written instructions. Paul Thede is the RT guru who walks you through the whole process on the DVD. The DVD is an awesome tutorial about how the fork or shock works even if one wasn't doing the work...one DVD for each component. I've seen the Moto Pro parts kit, and it looks quite similar to RT's and probably every bit as good. However, if Moto Pro doesn't also offer a DVD along with their instructions, that would be enough for me to go with RT. On the other hand if were sending the components out to be done, I'd probably have John at Moto Pro do it. For a home mechanic who's not been highly involved with shim stacking techniques and the internal componentry of a fork and shock, the DVD is worth having.
There are two special tools required for working on the fork. One is the damper cylinder holding tool, and the other is the seal driver. I made a cylinder holding tool out of a 30mm (or so) aluminum seatpost from a bicycle...using a hacksaw and file. People have installed seals with punches, wood dowels, and other techniques for a long time, but it's also easy to walk your assembled fork to moto shop and have them tap the seals in with the appropriate seal driver for very little money.
As far as the rear shock is concerned, frankly I think it's easier to work on than the fork. It's simpler and doesn't require any serious special tools. The nitrogen charge is the last thing you do, and that's a dirt cheap step at any decent moto shop.
There are two special tools required for working on the fork. One is the damper cylinder holding tool, and the other is the seal driver. I made a cylinder holding tool out of a 30mm (or so) aluminum seatpost from a bicycle...using a hacksaw and file. People have installed seals with punches, wood dowels, and other techniques for a long time, but it's also easy to walk your assembled fork to moto shop and have them tap the seals in with the appropriate seal driver for very little money.
As far as the rear shock is concerned, frankly I think it's easier to work on than the fork. It's simpler and doesn't require any serious special tools. The nitrogen charge is the last thing you do, and that's a dirt cheap step at any decent moto shop.
#33
01-20-2011, 05:24 PM
I just got off the phone with Moto Pro John. He just told me that the springs are going to make a huge difference. He said the stock valving is very nice but it's 1990s technology and the way it lets fluid go through is very linear, meaning the amount of resistance is always the same. He said this works fine until you get into repetitive, square, sharp impacts and that's where things get rough. He suggested I might want to respring it and try it out and see how it works. He said dollar-for-dollar the respringing is the way to go. He said the wheels tracking where you want them to go is all springs. Then I told him I'm thinking about those 1 or 2 instances a year where I get myself in someplace I really shouldn't be and I like staying upright. Even if it makes a little difference, that might be the difference between me saying "Whoa! That was scary!" and "Whoa! Someone drag me to the hospital so I can get some X-rays!" So I bought the revalve kit for the forks.
#34
01-20-2011, 07:03 PM
I don't think you'll ever regret spending money on suspension upgrades...to me, it's more important than brakes for the type of riding I do.
#35
01-20-2011, 07:42 PM
I have spent a lot of time suspension tuning with 4 wheels. You learn real fast.
#1 Tires. With out the right ones, you can spend a LOT of time messing with the suspension and get no where.
#2 Springs
I talked with John for quite a while today too about the rear spring and using links to lower the bike a little. I ended up having him ship me the front valve kit and I will go from there.
Black top is all I ride on, so traction is a non problem. Just ride and handling. Ever since I bought this bike, the rear is too soft and the front is too stiff. The faster I go on bumpy roads (like 65 mph), the more it beats me up. This is what I am trying to fix.
Original tires have maybe 1,000 miles left on them. I have a set of batlax 045 waiting. I run about 25 psi in them. Front is worn a little more on the sides than the middle, rear middle is going fast, so I went for the dual compound rear. This bike is supposed to be a commuter..... I do drive it to work daily when it s warm out.
One nice thing about the extra stiff front end. If I try a wheelie and screw it up, when the frond end slams down its no big deal.
Off road to me is the sidewalk
David
#1 Tires. With out the right ones, you can spend a LOT of time messing with the suspension and get no where.
#2 Springs
I talked with John for quite a while today too about the rear spring and using links to lower the bike a little. I ended up having him ship me the front valve kit and I will go from there.
Black top is all I ride on, so traction is a non problem. Just ride and handling. Ever since I bought this bike, the rear is too soft and the front is too stiff. The faster I go on bumpy roads (like 65 mph), the more it beats me up. This is what I am trying to fix.
Original tires have maybe 1,000 miles left on them. I have a set of batlax 045 waiting. I run about 25 psi in them. Front is worn a little more on the sides than the middle, rear middle is going fast, so I went for the dual compound rear. This bike is supposed to be a commuter..... I do drive it to work daily when it s warm out.
One nice thing about the extra stiff front end. If I try a wheelie and screw it up, when the frond end slams down its no big deal.
Off road to me is the sidewalk
David
#37
01-20-2011, 10:57 PM
Feral Burro
I hope that when you receive your order and install the Ultra Max count your impressions.
It is also helpful to take pictures of the installation.
I am glad that this post will serve as a debate of interest to everyone.
I hope that when you receive your order and install the Ultra Max count your impressions.
It is also helpful to take pictures of the installation.
I am glad that this post will serve as a debate of interest to everyone.
#38
12-06-2014, 10:08 PM
I have a 2009 KLX250s and the stock rear spring was OK but when I started pushing myself to leep up with KTM's or hitting g outs before a hill or jump I was bottoming. So I spoke with Moto Pro and they sent a nice black spring.
Here is stock
The Race Tech springs are blue my bike is red so black matches better.
The sent me a 6.0kg and when I took it out of the box I didn't realize how much longer the new spring was until after I put it all back together. So the snorkel from the air box to the carb was stopping the pre-load adjuster from tightening. I had to remove it and advance the adjuster about 2.5 inches and then re-install the snorkel and clamps.
The new spring is 2 inches longer.
Up to date picture
Prior to installing the new spring the un-sprung distance was just under 19 inches. The new spring is 20 inches at the same measuring points. The seat is an inch taller. When I used to lift the the bike off of its kickstand to upright the rear would sag but not any more. Also while riding the rear doesn't sick down when I hit the gas. I hit some good testing situations and it worked well!
I set my sag at 75
Here is some videos
Ohenry
Here is stock
The Race Tech springs are blue my bike is red so black matches better.
The sent me a 6.0kg and when I took it out of the box I didn't realize how much longer the new spring was until after I put it all back together. So the snorkel from the air box to the carb was stopping the pre-load adjuster from tightening. I had to remove it and advance the adjuster about 2.5 inches and then re-install the snorkel and clamps.
The new spring is 2 inches longer.
Up to date picture
Prior to installing the new spring the un-sprung distance was just under 19 inches. The new spring is 20 inches at the same measuring points. The seat is an inch taller. When I used to lift the the bike off of its kickstand to upright the rear would sag but not any more. Also while riding the rear doesn't sick down when I hit the gas. I hit some good testing situations and it worked well!
I set my sag at 75
Here is some videos
Ohenry
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