It doesn't work on ice either, maybe with some ice screw, I dont have any on mine.
The best condition is with a few inch of new snow on the ground.

 

Does the handling get difficult in conditions where snowmobiles have rutted up the trails?

That looks like pretty soft snow, what about harder stuff?

 

I'm not sure I understand the question. The best riding is hard ground with some soft snow on top.
It drive pretty good on snowmobile trail but it's much harder on 4whelers trail when the **** are deep it's almost the same width as the sled so you have to stay in the middle but it's narrow.

There's not much suspension left, so when it's hard you can't go fast over big rocks or roots or lugs. You have to wait for snow to cover those up.

We always do the same trails, so after a while it becomes bumpy. We've build a small rig that we carry behind the bike to smooth the track back. There's even a section we do with a wider one behind a 4wheller with tracks.

 

Why is the suspension limited? I remember you saying something about a strap that holds the suspension in to reduce the bike's height.

 

Yes, the first year I had something to limit the height but I'm not using it anymore.

Let me try to explain my point about the suspension:
The track is long and it's attached on the footpeg to keep it leveled. If you hit something under it will move up but if you hit something in the front of the track, there's no suspension in the front to rear axis. Yes it will induce a small rotation but it's not going to absorb all the shock. The rear suspension linkage is also hitting the track sometimes, so that limits the travel, If you're tall it could help replacing the dog bones.
The explorer kit is also quite heavy compare to a wheel in the back, so the suspension doesn't react the same, lighter hung weight is always the best for suspension.
It's the same in front at a smaller scale, if you hit something in the front to rear the ski wants to rotate like a whell, that's when you get pressure on the caliper bolt.

It may sound terrible, but when there's a snow cover it's not that bad As I said before, you have to wait that the rocks and roots are covered in snow and you're good to go.

If you want good suspension you have to get a snow kit that include it, like a timbersled but I don't think there's any other kit that is made to fit the klx? Also those kit are longer track that sits further on the rear, so I don't think they're as good in thight wood, they're better in really deep snow like in the rockies mountain. The explorer kit goes under the bike, the turning point is almost the same as the wheel, when you put the kit the fartest out you also get the cantilever effect, When you go over bumps you feel the bike stays high until the end of the track.

 

Don't even think about doing something like this

 

Ok I need to see a video of you doing that on the explorer kit!