has anyone started a thread on changing brake pads,?

when would you change the brake pads,

also when would you change the rotor?

any tips, tools needed, a really good set of brake pads, etc.

 

I don't recall a thread specific to changing pads, but there is probably one. Did you search for it? There's a spec in the service manual for the rotor. I'm not sure if our brake pads have squeekers like most automotive pads have. I did notice there's a little 'cut' in the pad which I'm assuming is a wear indicator. If your bike is to the point of needing new pads, its probably time to flush the brake fluid. Pad selection is kind of personal. Some are 'better' but they wear out the rotor quicker. I think I have some Galfer green ones waiting to go on sometime soon.

 

yeah. I actually did, came up with nothing. I do not have access to a service manual, nor the information that could be obtained with one. care to share? that part about the squeeker is helpful, why flush the brake fluid? I did watch a video from Rocky Mountain OffRoad. seems changing pads will be very easy if necessary. the only tool so far I know that I would need is a screwdriver. not sure what size socket, hex head allen key, etc, I would need to remove the pin holding the pad in place that runs through the caliper.

they even have a video on changing the rotor.

I will share the two videos.

IDRIDR, if you change your brake pads, will you update with what tools you used to do so??

 

You can download a pdf copy of the service manual- it's located in a sticky on the main page for the KLX 250 forum. Flushing out the old brake fluid helps to prevent any corrosion of the internal parts in the m/c and caliper. Brake fluid is hygroscopic(means it absorbs water) and because of that it needs to be changed periodically. The manual has a service schedule on when those items should be performed. The manual has detailed instructions on how to replace/service all of the parts on the bike so that would be a excellent source of information on working on the bike.

 

Pardon moi for stating what seems often times obvious...

If you cannot figure out what tools you need by actually looking at the job either you don't have enough right tools or you should not be performing the task. This is the first part of doing work - figuring out what is needed to do the job. That or you're just a shade lazy.

One more thing - manuals can be had, probably for free on-line somewhere, which will give details, like torque values for reassembly, wear limits, and illustrations for the work. With a book in front of you it is harder to gloss over something important that might take a second to say in a video and you miss it.

I also remember some of the videos on doing the cam chain tensioner adjustment, where the producer was telling you to either tighten the adjustment down until the idle would drop or, worse yet, until it squealed. Both are indications of being WAY too tight at the risk of damaging the cam bearing surfaces. So much for the reliability of video only. Keep that in mind. I'd recommend manual and video to make sure or just skip the video and do the manual.

Just saying, don't bury yourself if you do not have a bit of an idea what you are starting into and don't take the risk of an error in assembly. When I started working with stuff I had friends who knew something to help... although I did learn on my first engine case split on a Bultaco, that my friend had never done so before either. Fortunately by then I had some mechanical sense built up and could reason through what needed to be done - aka got it together without spare parts left over and everything working right.

That was a bit of an accomplishment because when I took the engine to a dealer to have them properly split the cases, the guy though it was for my buddy, who had been bugging the heck out of them with questions (free information) so he literally dumped the gear box pieces and all the other parts in a box in random order. I had to sort out and fit everything together until it was proper. Took about an hour. From there, no problem. Fortunately the Bul only had one shim, the rest was precision machined. In later years I did a Husky 250 which was a nightmare, but got it done.

Look at the job and figure it out. It isn't hard. Have the replacement pads ready to do the job so you can just reverse the process before you forget. That and brake pad replacement on the front is about as easy as it gets. The rear is a bit more a pain, the pads don't fit in as easily. Not confusing, just not as easy. I believe you will need to pull the wheel to slide the caliper off the pin to do the pad replacement... I think. I just did a rear caliper carrier swap and know I had to pull the wheel to get the caliper off the carrier to slide the carrier out. Been a while on the front, but I think you have to pull the wheel to access the pads, the caliper will not swing up to remove pads.

One last note, the old "if it doesn't fit get a bigger hammer" does NOT apply. Everything should pretty much fall in place easily. If it doesn't, figure out what is stopping progress and take care of it. More stuff is bent or broken when someone thinks they just need to hit it a little harder. You might use a small quick grip clamp or a C-clamp to push the piston back in the caliper - gently. New pads will make for a tight fit and you need the piston fully retracted.

 

[QUOTE=klx678;520155]Pardon moi for stating what seems often times obvious...

If you cannot figure out what tools you need by actually looking at the job either you don't have enough right tools or you should not be performing the task. This is the first part of doing work - figuring out what is needed to do the job. That or you're just a shade lazy.


I could probably spend half a hour or more going back and forth to the tool box looking for various sizes of tools. I am going to check out the service manual and see if it gives a list.

Way easier to have all the tools needed before hand, makes the task that much simpler. What would be a half hour or hour job, turns into a 2O minute job if all the right tool are there already laid out for you.

from time to time you'll see the same thread repeated, no big deal, just wanted something I can reference later on.

Not to change the subject, i'll take all the help I can get on changing brake pads,

but I did buy a "Grunge Brush" at a local Motorcycle Shop and cleaned the chain with that and some regular WD40, and the chain looks brand new.

Advance Auto sell Lucas Brand chain oil for motorcyles with O-rings, might try a different brand next time though.

 

seems like the internet GODS have smiled down upon me.

I researched the KLX25O manual page starting on page 262 section 12-1 and ending on page 285 section 12-24.

the only "specialty tools" listed as needed are a floor jack.

No list on what tools used to remove the entire caliper from the tyre like the manual states.

I am hoping to avoid all of that, (removing the whole caliper from the wheel and tyre) and just replace the brake pads like the video from RockyMountainATV shows. Seems simple enough by just removing the bolt(s) that hold the brake pads to the inside of the caliper.

I will reference the diagram included to see which bolt(s) I can remove without removing the whole caliper. which seems to be photograph "A" on page 275 section 12-14. photograph "A" is simply the pin pad. which would be the most simplistic approach, rather than remove the entire caliper from the rotor. not to say is possible or impossible, but highly likely could be done, in a matter of minutes.

now I just have to figure out what tool to use to remove the pad pins.

I will update in the future , probably at the beginning of the next riding season if this is doable, (without removing the caliper_)_) and what tool(s) were used.

thanks everybody!

 

You most likely just need pads and a fluid change. I have 40,000 hard miles on my bike and both discs are well within spec, I've never changed the front pads and the rear has been changed once. Both will be changed soon though.
To change the pads.
Remove the wheel, if replacing pads you can pry the pads apart(keeping an eye on fluid level in the reservoir) with a tire iron, at least use something with no sharp edges. Since you are replacing the pads push the brake as far in as you can, you'll need the clearance for the new pads.
Once the wheel is off, remove the brake pad pin cover.
The screw cover can be removed with the tool kit screwdriver with a wrench on it(a couple of whacks with a hammer on the end of the driver might not hurt). The cover is JIS, like all the screws on the bike. Under the cover is the pin, which requires an allen wrench(don't remember the size), remove that and the pads should come right out.
Replace, reinstall front wheel (make sure it works after a few pumps of the lever), and then flush and bleed the brakes.
Oh yeah, grease the pin so the pads slide on it when reassembling.

 

Once the wheel is off, remove the brake pad pin cover.
The screw cover can be removed with the tool kit screwdriver with a wrench on it(a couple of whacks with a hammer on the end of the driver might not hurt). The cover is JIS, like all the screws on the bike. Under the cover is the pin, which requires an allen wrench(don't remember the size), remove that and the pads should come right out.


I have been looking for a aftermarket brake pad pin kit that replaces the hex head front caliper brake pins, and the rear slotted brake pins with a 8mm 6 point bolt head.

Tusk and DRC make a kit, none of which though I could find specifically for a 2012 KLX250s. They do make the kits for certain Kawasaki Dirt Bikes and Dual sports, but I do not know enough about the motorcycles to tell if the calipers and pins would be the same say, for a KDX or something similar. that would fit for certain on a 2012 KLX250s.

I contacted Rocky Mountain Offroad, to see if they could further explain, but cannot contact Tusk through there website nor DRC, which is located in Japan.

 

I contacted RockyMountainOffroad today, none of the bikes they had listed would cross reference with the KLX250s dual sport.

Seems that none of the dirt bikes like the KDX400? or other dirt bikes, have the same brake parts.

it would be nice if Tusk or DRC would make a aftermarket pin to replace the allen screw on the front and the Philips head screw on the rear pin pad.

my only worry is once removed, how to torque a Philips head screw?

I don't think I have a tool for that;

after some extensive research, many emails, and phone calls later, the only thing I came close to finding a rear caliper replacement pin, comes in a set of brake pads made by EBC.

EBC MXS race brake pads come with replacement pins, that replace the OEM brake pin to something more easily removed,

not sure if the front brakes come with new pins, but by the stock photo online of the rear brake pads, the set does.