KLX 331 EFI need help!
#1
KLX 331 EFI need help!
Hello!
I dont get my KLX 331 EFI 2010 to go above 130 km/h
Things ive done.
Bill Blue 331 kit
Leovince silencer
KDX 200 Snorkel
12oclock speedometer
EJK Controller kit "Big Bore"
o2 sensor removal
backfire screen removed
Twin air filter
Clutch switch restriction
14/39 sprockets also tried 14/42
and ive done this:
1. Disconnect ECU from the rubber base (A)
2. Locate the light green wire (:doh:
3. Cut the light green wire close to ECU
4. Add a piece of wire to the light green wire (that you just have cut) to the side that comes out of the ECU (E) long enough to reach (F)
5. Disconnect (F)
6. Connect the wire you added, in parallel to the black/red wire (G)
7. Connect again (F)
8. Isolate the light green wire that was coming to ECU (D)
With the 14/39 sprockets i get the bike to 125-135 km/h no power wheelies.
and with 14/42 sprockets i get the bike to 115-122 km/h and can power wheelie at 1st gear..
Please help me this is getting pretty annoying
Sorry for bad english!
EDIT : Forgot to mension ive got supermotard wheels.
I dont get my KLX 331 EFI 2010 to go above 130 km/h
Things ive done.
Bill Blue 331 kit
Leovince silencer
KDX 200 Snorkel
12oclock speedometer
EJK Controller kit "Big Bore"
o2 sensor removal
backfire screen removed
Twin air filter
Clutch switch restriction
14/39 sprockets also tried 14/42
and ive done this:
1. Disconnect ECU from the rubber base (A)
2. Locate the light green wire (:doh:
3. Cut the light green wire close to ECU
4. Add a piece of wire to the light green wire (that you just have cut) to the side that comes out of the ECU (E) long enough to reach (F)
5. Disconnect (F)
6. Connect the wire you added, in parallel to the black/red wire (G)
7. Connect again (F)
8. Isolate the light green wire that was coming to ECU (D)
With the 14/39 sprockets i get the bike to 125-135 km/h no power wheelies.
and with 14/42 sprockets i get the bike to 115-122 km/h and can power wheelie at 1st gear..
Please help me this is getting pretty annoying
Sorry for bad english!
EDIT : Forgot to mension ive got supermotard wheels.
#2
and ive done this:
1. Disconnect ECU from the rubber base (A)
2. Locate the light green wire (:doh:
3. Cut the light green wire close to ECU
4. Add a piece of wire to the light green wire (that you just have cut) to the side that comes out of the ECU (E) long enough to reach (F)
5. Disconnect (F)
6. Connect the wire you added, in parallel to the black/red wire (G)
7. Connect again (F)
8. Isolate the light green wire that was coming to ECU (D)
1. Disconnect ECU from the rubber base (A)
2. Locate the light green wire (:doh:
3. Cut the light green wire close to ECU
4. Add a piece of wire to the light green wire (that you just have cut) to the side that comes out of the ECU (E) long enough to reach (F)
5. Disconnect (F)
6. Connect the wire you added, in parallel to the black/red wire (G)
7. Connect again (F)
8. Isolate the light green wire that was coming to ECU (D)
I have no idea what problems or issues that could arise from all the cutting & slicing wires could cause. Maybe the clutch bypass is conflicting with the all the ecu wire cutting?!?
Last edited by JoelThailand; 08-18-2015 at 05:13 PM.
#3
All the wire cutting was totally unnecessary as the "clutch bypass" takes the restriction away in 4,5,6th gear. 1st & 2nd gear is unrestricted by the ecu so power wheelies should be no problem for a 331 bike!
I have no idea what problems or issues that could arise from all the cutting & slicing wires could cause. Maybe the clutch bypass is conflicting with the all the ecu wire cutting?!?
I have no idea what problems or issues that could arise from all the cutting & slicing wires could cause. Maybe the clutch bypass is conflicting with the all the ecu wire cutting?!?
#4
Yes worth taking ecu back to stock.
Only power wheelies in 1st on stock gearing 14/39 but will come up easy in 2nd with a blip of the throttle or a bit of clutch. 13/39 gearing is when wheeliegedon starts happening!!
Webcams improve the low & mid torque a touch but really they help keep the power curve strong to the redline instead of starting to drop off over 8500rpm. I had access to an old set of stock cams which made it much cheaper not to pay a core charge btw....if i didn't have them to hand i may not have bothered but the extra power is nice.
Only power wheelies in 1st on stock gearing 14/39 but will come up easy in 2nd with a blip of the throttle or a bit of clutch. 13/39 gearing is when wheeliegedon starts happening!!
Webcams improve the low & mid torque a touch but really they help keep the power curve strong to the redline instead of starting to drop off over 8500rpm. I had access to an old set of stock cams which made it much cheaper not to pay a core charge btw....if i didn't have them to hand i may not have bothered but the extra power is nice.
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