I haven't done it yet...we'll see how it goes when I get a few more of the parts I ordered from BikeBandit.

Although I did do the StormCase/PelicanCase mod with some parts from Lowes. It looks *amazing*.

 

Which Stormcase did you use? I like the Hardigg Stormcases a lot better then the Pelican's. An install picture would be nice.

 

Did you get the kickstarter kit they list or, are you buying the parts individually. Any tips you can provide on getting all the parts in one order delivery charge would be appreciated.

THANKS!

 

With enough starting fluid, a battery charger, and some extra patience you can get a KLX-250S started in ~60 degree weather. [:'(][sm=headbang.gif]

It looks like I've got my own projects to tackle:
- clearing a path to inject starting fluid without taking the seat off
- since my carb jetting seems to be off, I guess it's time to do the free mod's since I only want to rejet once (assuming I don't have to rejet for each of the 4 seasons [sm=devilgrin.gif])

The Kawsaki dealership mechanic wasn't kidding when he said it need to idle for 15 minutes. I ran it for roughly 5 minutes to the point where the radiator was warm, turned the choke off, and it died. I pulled the choke back out and it would not start. More starting fluid and it finally sputtered to life after a lot of grinding on the starter.

The mechanic was right though, after about 15 minutes the radiator was too hot to hold with my bare hands and it started right up when I killed it.

 

what are your carb settings?

 

I'm dead stock from the factory with no mods to the engine. The radiator guards and Utah skid plate are the only things I've done so far.

When it was warm outside (~70F), I had slight hesitation above idle until it warmed up. When it was running before the battery issue on ~35F mornings, it would die above idle if I didn't let the motor warm up.

With 1300 miles on it, it is well broken in. At the 600 mile first service, the dealership commented on how clean the motorcycle so was so it's had a gentle life so far. When I took it in last week, I got similar comments.

 

I got the kickstarter kit 99999-0073 and all the parts seems to be there.

The other parts I am waiting on are for the left side magneto cover gasket and the other little cover on that side.

In reading through the shop manual, they advocate using a sling strap/fly wheel holder on the magneto to
hold everything while you take the clutch basket off.

I'm also buying a few more tools to make the job a little easier and waiting for about 500miles on the bike before I change out the oil.

The one thing I am considering is the coolant. What container I should use to catch the coolant? Should I re-use the coolant since it's so new? How much coolant is in the bike?

 

i wouldnt reuse coolant..... its cheap, just get new stuff.... there cant be that much in that little motor....

sid, i would take that bike back and ask them WTF its all stock figure out the problem..... I know if i ran the carb bowl out and try to start it after sitting for weeks in single digit temps it will fire right up... i have rejetted and stuff though....

 

If you get a tool to hold the clutch basket you should not need to remove any left side stuff or a strap wrench.

 

Ahh. On every clutch I ever took apart you removed the prssure plate then all the steel& fiber discs then had to remove the nut to take the inner & outer baskets off---& in doing so holding the flywheel would not accomplish anything as the inner basket would spin like mad on the shaft. After looking at Finger Mullet's writeup I can see the KLX allows you to remove the nut with the discs all still together---so that is why you can use the flywheel or even the outer clutch basket as I mentioned above or what I am about to mention because without leaving the discs in eventhese would not work.

Something else you could try. Take a gear, any gear, could be on that comers in the kit. Place it in between the primary gear & the gear on the back of the clutch basket. That too shoud lock everything up from the right side only.