KLX 250S Advice
#21
There isn't a whole lot of difference from '06 to '10.
I've an '07 and haven't got any complaints. It's a small dual-purpose bike, and excels at that niche. It's fairly good on the road, and fairly good off-road. It's a better bike than most of us are riders, and it doesn't mind being knocked around some.
I've an '07 and haven't got any complaints. It's a small dual-purpose bike, and excels at that niche. It's fairly good on the road, and fairly good off-road. It's a better bike than most of us are riders, and it doesn't mind being knocked around some.
#22
If you're going to use it off road, do what everyone says and replace the 14t front sprocket with a 13t. I ordered one from rockymountainatv for $10 and it's made a huge difference. Makes going through tight trails in first gear easy without having to constantly feather the clutch, and the bike takes off a lot quicker. Causes your rpms to be about 500 higher in each gear relative to the speed, but with the 6th gear I haven't found it to be a problem on the road.
If you're going to replace the front sprocket, there is a washer behind the main nut that has one side bent up against the nut. Set a screw driver on the edge of the bent part of the washer and tap it flat with a hammer before you try to back the nut off - the washer has groves in it similar to the sprocket to keep it from spinning on the shaft, and it will not spin with the nut. When you replace the sprocket, put the washer on next, then the nut, tighten the nut, and bend one part of the washer back up against the nut with a pair of pliers to prevent it from spinning off.
If you're going to replace the front sprocket, there is a washer behind the main nut that has one side bent up against the nut. Set a screw driver on the edge of the bent part of the washer and tap it flat with a hammer before you try to back the nut off - the washer has groves in it similar to the sprocket to keep it from spinning on the shaft, and it will not spin with the nut. When you replace the sprocket, put the washer on next, then the nut, tighten the nut, and bend one part of the washer back up against the nut with a pair of pliers to prevent it from spinning off.
#23
Starting?
Hey All,
Thanks so much for all the feedback!
So- I went ahead and got the bike today
BUT- it won't start for me!!
Maybe its because its 30 degrees here... maybe I flooded it, but I can't imagine it'd be that picky right off the showroom floor
Not off to a good start on this adventure...
I can't wait to ride this thing and I don't have much time before the snow flies...
I appreciate the advice about the sproket.. i think I'll get it running first
Thanks so much for all the feedback!
So- I went ahead and got the bike today
BUT- it won't start for me!!
Maybe its because its 30 degrees here... maybe I flooded it, but I can't imagine it'd be that picky right off the showroom floor
Not off to a good start on this adventure...
I can't wait to ride this thing and I don't have much time before the snow flies...
I appreciate the advice about the sproket.. i think I'll get it running first
#24
Pull the choke all the way out, dont give it any gas, crank it a bit, then let it sit a couple minutes, then rank it again, then let it sit.
This should eventually get it started, then its going to rev at like 3K, let it do that for just a bit, then you will have to give it some gas as you push the choke back in.
These bikes run great once they are running, but they HATE starting, even after they are warm, they can be hard to start.
This should eventually get it started, then its going to rev at like 3K, let it do that for just a bit, then you will have to give it some gas as you push the choke back in.
These bikes run great once they are running, but they HATE starting, even after they are warm, they can be hard to start.
#26
pipe give a lot of power back, but is the most $$$. I did the free mod (drill through 1st baffle) for my first year before coughing up the $$$ to do the slip on. Point being you can do that mod separate.
#27
Vermont eh ?
Moved from there in March. You picked a good bike for the area but good luck.
Drilling out the starter jet would be a #1 for me up there, even here in MO i'm having trouble getting mine started on the 40 degree mornings.
Moved from there in March. You picked a good bike for the area but good luck.
Drilling out the starter jet would be a #1 for me up there, even here in MO i'm having trouble getting mine started on the 40 degree mornings.
#28
I guess I'm not going to get the riding in I though I would before the snow is here in earnest....
What is the mod? Drilling my starter jet?
Man- I'd hate to take a drill to the bike before I've even even ridden it!!!
Rbarchi- are you saying an after market exhaust would make it easier to start in the cold?
There is a weird sputter in the muffler when I'm cranking with the choke out...
Block heater, maybe? Anyone?
Need a nice warm garage!
#29
Cold starts are problematic for quite a few KLX's. The starter jet is on the small side, so the choke doesn't allow enough fuel to start a cold motor in many cases. This is a fixed brass jet pressed into the carb body and is not replaceable. Drilling out this jet to .018" solves the hard cold starting. It has no effect on anything else when the choke **** is closed, so it doesn't screw anything up.