KLX 250 ( 300 ) camshaft mod by Marcelino
#661
so finaly the bike is ok,
i did the mcm only for the inlet cam....
at first i have the stock timing but with about 1/4 touth advance at both inlet and exhaust (2-3 deggress), than i did the mcm only for the inlet. This means that now i have 2-3 degrees advance at the exhaust and 5-6 degrees retard the inlet.
the bike realy goes better now. I use to have it 300cc (now is 250) but it seems to me that it goes like 300 after the mcm at the inlet... I believe also that the reprofiled cams are realy giving more power with the mcm..... Thanks Marcelino!!!!!!!
i did the mcm only for the inlet cam....
at first i have the stock timing but with about 1/4 touth advance at both inlet and exhaust (2-3 deggress), than i did the mcm only for the inlet. This means that now i have 2-3 degrees advance at the exhaust and 5-6 degrees retard the inlet.
the bike realy goes better now. I use to have it 300cc (now is 250) but it seems to me that it goes like 300 after the mcm at the inlet... I believe also that the reprofiled cams are realy giving more power with the mcm..... Thanks Marcelino!!!!!!!
#664
so finaly the bike is ok,
i did the mcm only for the inlet cam....
at first i have the stock timing but with about 1/4 touth advance at both inlet and exhaust (2-3 deggress), than i did the mcm only for the inlet. This means that now i have 2-3 degrees advance at the exhaust and 5-6 degrees retard the inlet.
i did the mcm only for the inlet cam....
at first i have the stock timing but with about 1/4 touth advance at both inlet and exhaust (2-3 deggress), than i did the mcm only for the inlet. This means that now i have 2-3 degrees advance at the exhaust and 5-6 degrees retard the inlet.
#665
you can make the timing slightly retard at both cams. you can do this by not putting the inlet mark exactly align with the top of the head but put it slightly advanced (just 1/4 of a touth). If you do this you will have both inlet and exhaust cam 2-3 degrees retarded. with MCM you do 8-9 degrees avance to the inlet and 8-9 degrees retard to the exhasut. I did only the inlet so after the mcm to the inlet i am : -2 degrees retard +9 advance = +7 advance. the exhaust staid at -2 degrees retarded from the first slightly retarding timing.
i did this because i couldnt do the mcm to the exhaust cam as i had problems with piston - exhaust valve clearence.
i did this because i couldnt do the mcm to the exhaust cam as i had problems with piston - exhaust valve clearence.
Last edited by turbomaniac; 09-07-2014 at 05:51 PM.
#666
Cams are out, shims on order. I may see about starting a shim trading thread, at $12 a shot they ain't cheap.
I am not removing the KACR, but am disabling it mechanically, locking the shoes out with - of all things - coat hanger!
Made a squared off U bend, 41mm inside length, perfect fit with the shoes full out, disabling the CR. Then...
I bent the wire out to the outside and clipped the excess off.
Cost - $0, time - 5 minutes. I removed the spring and put it in the tool box. If I want to reverse the process I cut the wire in the middle, take it out and put the spring back. If the bike starts good, I might consider paying to have the CR pressed out. Until then, this will work for the cam timing mod.
I am not removing the KACR, but am disabling it mechanically, locking the shoes out with - of all things - coat hanger!
Made a squared off U bend, 41mm inside length, perfect fit with the shoes full out, disabling the CR. Then...
I bent the wire out to the outside and clipped the excess off.
Cost - $0, time - 5 minutes. I removed the spring and put it in the tool box. If I want to reverse the process I cut the wire in the middle, take it out and put the spring back. If the bike starts good, I might consider paying to have the CR pressed out. Until then, this will work for the cam timing mod.
#669
So advise me here Mark. The ACR uses the spring to release compression? When the revs pick up the shoes are centrifugally displaced to the outer position. So the wire lock is used to lock the shoes out in a stretched spring position? ( I have 101's anyway but chucked my spring)
The only reason I used the wire lock out was just to stop any movement rather than let the counterweights move at all. Consider it a sort of security measure - two less moving parts.
The compression release is a hold over from the kick start KLX250/300 and with the electric start is proving to be unneeded. As I said, research shows neither the CRF250L nor the WR250X/R use a compression release and the Supersherpa doesn't use one either. Seems the starter has no problem spinning the engine over sans compression release.
If I do anything with the top end I'll probably have the mechanism pressed out, cutting a bit of rotating weight off the cam.
Last edited by klx678; 09-07-2014 at 06:27 PM.