My final ACR question is when its moved lets say 8mm or so, is that 8mm on an arbitrary mark on the cam and ACR OR is that some where else? I know what the ACR does obviously but I'm totally ignorant how it works or what it looks like. I saw the picture of the razor blade showing if its set to high or low...I guess that would be the second area of measurement. 8 mm out there is a big difference then 8mm on the cam, correct?

What I'm getting at is if that circular portion on the ACR in the first thread with the razor blade is in the same spot once I'm done making adjustments I should be good to go? Thats my understanding.

 

I'll translate this quote for you - " it needs to be turned 6-7 mm ( 1/4 inch ) at the edge counter-clock-wise as you look at the ACR ."

If you could grab the damned thing and rotate it 1/4 inch counter clock wise, you'd be done. lol Mark it, press it out, press it in 1/4 inch counter clock wise from it original position.

 

Cool that's what I was thinking but if I didn't ask I would have messed that up.

I think I'm going to do this...pull valve cover, perform MCM and lock out ACR. Also, check valves. I'll ride it for a few days and see how I like everything. This should be quick and easy and not require any cams to be removed, correct?

Once my manual tensioner arrives I can install that, make any actual valve adjusts if needed and if the MCM goes well I'll retime the ACR all at the same time.

 

Don't bother with the ACR, if you like the mod and are going to the trouble of pressing it out, leave it out. I locked my acr out like was shown earlier in this thread with a piece of wire.... bike starts way better. When I do my valves later this summer i'm going to have the acr pressed out and leave it out. The only issue may be if I decide to go big bore later on, which I don't think I will. To much money to spend on a "slow" bike. Up here in Canada I'd be out around 600 bucks for a 351 depending on whether I decide to keep my cylinder or send it back. I may do a tm36-68 though, I can get into that for aprx 300 bucks. I don't think I want more power as much as I want better throttle response.


ps. I don't know if doing the mod without first removing the cams is the best idea. Its probably going to be more difficult to remove the cam sprocket bolts while the cams are still in the head.

 

That is what I'd do, remove the ACR, but I'd do it with the big bore too, should I pull the cams again some time. The way the engine spins over I just don't think there is a need for it with the E-start. There are guys running the KLX650s without the ACR too, but that is pushing it a bit.

I'm betting the new Honda CBR300 doesn't have a compression release on it seeing as how the CRF250 doesn't. I will bet the big bore WR250R doesn't either seeing that the stock model doesn't.


Edit: You break the bolts loose while the cams are secured in the head, I torqued them to spec after reinstalliing the cams. Easiest way to hold the cams.

 

Alright freaks I did it...so now what???

I have mixed feelings, it's got a lot more kick above 5k, anything below seems to lag. I tried to bog it a bit and see how it reacts and I just can't tell. Right off the bat I had to bump up the idle speed a pinch. It fires up and runs great other wise. I'm pretty certain I got all the timing correct. Perhaps I have a carburetor issue, maybe it's lean?

Thanks again for all the tips! I have faith this mod will pay off.

 

You will benefit from proper jetting. Try moving the needle Clip down one position (no need to remove carb) or going one up on the main.

 

The MCM moves the trq peak lower in the RPM range. Trq is enhanced from off idle up to about 6.5k. This will cause the AFR to go lean up to about 6.5k over a non MCM bike. When piped, and with out the lid, at or near sea level, it takes everything the DJ kit has and then some to get the AFR acceptable from off idle to about 6.5k at WOT. I am running #132 and needle raised one extra notch (cir-clip set one notch lower on the needle) and still average a lean 14:1 up to 6k.

BTW, if the carb is set up correctly or pretty close, you'll notice big gains up to about 6.5k and smaller, but still noticeable, gains after that up to cutoff. If that is not the case, you've probably done the mod wrong. Check my video on my signature line. See if your bike will try to pull its' front tire like mine. If not then some thing may be wrong.

 

Klxster,

Did you ever check afr with lid on and no snorkels? Has to be a bit fatter.

 

I take it, going down one essentially moves the needle up, correct? Just making sure we're on the same terms. I'm guessing it's going to increase fuel sooner but does it effect the air to fuel ratio or realistically the main jet will determine that?

Sorry for stupid questions, I'm a huge car buff but I didn't even know what the hell a CV carb was until I bought this bike, lol.

Also, I pulled out my DJ kit and I'm for sure running the 128.