We get 91, 95 and 98 and Opal, but the quality of the fuel can be indifferent to say the least. I run my bike on 98 and the car also. No issues with detonation on the bike although I've had some in the car with the 91,95 fuel.

 

Found this thread, it's an insightful read.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ication-10961/

 

These mods are good for a carburated KLX , if you can get you hands on one of them igniters , the really old units with CDI had a 60 V ac supply fromm a magneto , the newer ones ( SR and ES ) work on 12 V cc .
My bike is fuel injected , so IF Iīll do a mod along these lines ( thatīs a big IF ) , Iīll put the 2009 - 10 -11 KXF 250 controller along with the Kawasaki software . It will allow me to change the mixture and ignition maps at will .
The 2012 is a dual injector , so itīs a no go . I will also need to fabricate a different reluctor for the cranckshaft sensor .
These are allready hairy mods so for the time being letīs enjoy the cam mod , itīs simple ( relatively ) and it pays a lot .

 

The fuel thing. In amereica we get 87,89 and 93 octane R+m/2 method.
Bill Blue claims 12:1 compression for the 351 and I believe it. I CAN"T push start this bike. It just slides the rear tire.

I was burning 87 occtane ,but noticed some pinging at low RPM so I switched to 89 octane and the pinging went away.

This tells me I am right on the money for ignition timing in the lower RPM like 4,000 and below.

A couple weeks ago I moved the needle up one notch and then I noticed the pinging. Bike runs like a raped ape right now. I almost hate to mess with it. BUT I will.

DAVID

 

Marcelino,

Did you happen to clay the piston and spin this over by hand to see what is going on between the valves and piston regarding clearance after you changed the lobe centerline in relation to the crank?

Just want to know what is the min clearance after the mod, if you've not done this, maybe another person that is jumping at this can do it so that we all know.

 

Yes, I get that part...just wanted to know if you used a dial guage, degree wheel, etc. I'm not challenging that what you've done isn't producing results, it's just that degreeing the cams to find exactly where you are is something a bone stock engine can benefit from. When you do something as outside the box as you've done here, it would just about be a requirement to degree the cams for total confirmation, wouldn't it? Here's what I'm referring to:

Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts

 

No , I donīt know what the clearence in between the piston and the head ( quench ) is , either the clearance in between the piston and the valves is .
My bike is new , only has 1000 miles on it and I donīt feel like spending money on head gaskets ,cilinder gasket , coolant , oil etc.
Maybe you could put a dial on the valve tappet and with the engine at tdc and the chain off you could make a pretty close meassurement of this clearance by turning the cam BY HAND . Then please share . When it comes to quench y like better the " cross made out of solder wire " method , itīs easier and more accurate when you measure .

 

Well boys, I'm giving this mod a try right now as I install the 351 kit. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Your not changing the quench spacing, so I'm less interested in that. I always had a general rule in iron block/head V-8 engines that about 0.060" was the absolute min clearance you could safely race an engine with. That said, I've been closer, but usually end up with tale-tell marks on the piston from light valve contact at high RPMs. I'll sit back and watch/read as guys progress with your great start on this and more information and run time is gathered. Call me chicken!

 

Why not only change the intake cam timing?