The cams have marks in them. You can see the end of the cam inside the sprocket in the picture. All you need is a picture of stock cams to compare it to. I have seen a few on this website.

This works out OK, I need to adjust the valves anyhow. I just hit 7500 miles. I need (4) 3.00 spacers. Mine has (4) 3.05 spacers in it right now and all are in spec but tight. I figure if I put them in the middle of the adjustment I may get away with just checking them next 7500 miles.

I too read the first post a few times. I am one of those that will not run with the air box lid off because of the noise. I am sure it runs better off.

Right now I have the KDX 200 snorkel with the bottom cut off. All I use is the elbow on top as a duct to direct the noise away from me. It works. Bike runs awesome and is a blast to drive every day.

David

 

Marcelino, question for you since you have had the sprockets out and thought about moving the holes. what is the distance the holes would need to be slotted for 10* change?
It seems like it wouldnt be much at all.
The the ACR would be no problem.

 

I see, you are literally using the second set of bolt holes in the sprockets to advance or retard the valve timing.

 

I was just messing around with a protractor and see that a 10* variation of a 2" circle is about 3/16th of an inch. i don't think the bolt circle is even that big is it? I wonder what a machine shop would charge to elongate the bolt hole with a 10* offset. then you have no issues with the ACR.
Hmmmmm i like this thread,,,,, GOTM. you got my vote!!!!!

EDIT: Ok i read this over and over,,, your bike has the same spark advance as the AUS model so that would mean to achieve the same results on a USA model the spark advance would also need to be changed right?

 

More like GOTY, if this pans out.

Someone mentioned their bike running real well when the timing chain was almost toast - ie. it affected valve timing in a good way. So if this mod is done, then your chain gets wear, will the valve timing be affected so much that the valves would come close to the piston at all? Potential valve/piston clearance issues is what I'm wondering about if this puts things really close - but I'm talking out of my league on this one.

 

I suspect that's not the case and he has the same spark advance that you guys get (US) given his bike is a late model FI unit. Ignition timing: (US spec) 10º BTDC @ 1300rpm to 25º BTDC @5000 rpm. All the AUS bikes are carb', even the latest model, and the manual shows (AUS spec) BTDC 10º @ 1300rpm to 35º BTDC @ 5000rpm.

The question is how much effect does an extra 10º of spark advance have?

 

KLX250S (09 and on.) AUS spec 23 HP @ 8500rpm (US spec) 15 HP @ 8000rpm.
Ignition timing: (US spec) 10º BTDC @ 1300rpm to 25º BTDC @5000 rpm. (AUS spec) BTDC 10º @ 1300rpm to 35º BTDC @ 5000rpm.

there would be 8 hp difference as per your posted specs.
EDIT:
Oh, i see what you're saying now,, DUH!!

 

Yep! They're Kawa' specs not mine.

The most interesting part is the fact most of the models the US get are significantly down on power vs the models we (AUS) get. Same bike less power, even in the earlier D models where they have the same spark advance. That goes for the KLX300A too, less power for the US bike, but same advance. What gives????

The KLX250 D1,D2,D3,D4 bikes were the most powerful for the engine size (only 1 hp less powerful than the KLX300 A2.)

KLX250 D1-4. (non US model) 32 HP @ 8500rpm (US model) 30.5 HP @ 8500rpm.
Ignition timing: 5º BDTC @ 1700rpm to 40º BTDC @ 3000rpm

Dry Weight 104 KG.

KLX250 E1, E2, E3. bikes were heavier (rack large glass headlight etc.) and pretty much what we get today.

KLX250 E1-3. AUS spec 25 HP @ 8000rpm.
Ignition timing: 5º BTDC @ 1300rpm to 35º BTDC @ 5000 rpm.
(This is the ignition the I have on my 07 KLX250RH7 AUS spec bike, OE. Seems it can be traced back all the way to 94 with the E model bikes.)

KLX250S (09 and on.) AUS spec 23 HP @ 8500rpm (US spec) 15 HP @ 8000rpm.
Ignition timing: (US spec) 10º BTDC @ 1300rpm to 25º BTDC @5000 rpm. (AUS spec) BTDC 10º @ 1300rpm to 35º BTDC @ 5000rpm.

KLX300 A2. (AUS spec) 33 HP @ 8500rpm (US spec) 26 HP @ 7000rpm.
Ignition timing: 10º BTDC @ 1700rpm to 40º BTDC @ 3000rpm

 

what is the part number for the AUS CDI? and how much is it?
I think i need to move,, you guys get all the power and we get all the BS,,
What is the octane of your gasoline? is it leaded or unleaded? i suspect the difference in timing will need a higher octane of fuel to avoid detonation as well.

 

It's not the fuel, I'll guarantee that. We get some of the worst fuel going, read; Most isolated capital city in the world!

Part number is on the unit. Cost is about AUS $600 at the moment that's US $630 (weak US $.)