KLX 250 ( 300 ) camshaft mod by Marcelino

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  #161  
Old 06-26-2011 | 07:41 PM
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Default Did both intake and exhaust

OK. Now that it's established that doing the intake side is only a half a loaf, I decided to do the exhaust side, too.

The cam timing was very easy, but I found out that I don't have anything in my garage tooling ensemble that will remove the ACR from the shaft. It's gonna take an arbor press or similar fixture to do it right. Went ahead and continued with the cam timing part anyway but knowing that it would likely be coming out again later for ACR work. It's no big deal now to get in there fast and get things done.

Got the engine assembled without incident, with no spare or missing parts during the process.

On starting, it had a little different exhaust note. Also, I have stock 42/14 gears and it seemed to want to feather itself along in 1st gear (although weakly) where it wouldn't do that before.

After it was warmed up, I shut it off to try a restart and sure enough, I had to go with Marcelino's advice to go have a cool drink for a little while (couldn't remove/reposition ACR on shaft, remember?)

After I went inside and got properly dressed for a ride, and waited a while, went out and got it started, but still with a little difficulty.

Like yesterday, did a short loop in town to make sure that nothing catastrophic would happen and then took it out on my longer testing road. All the while I was remembering yesterday's clutch incident and knew that if the bike stalled for any reason I would be screwed due to inability to start it hot. Nonetheless service and sacrifice in the name of my fellow KLX'ers kept me going.

Yesterday with the intake mod only I was holding 1/2 throttle against a 15 mph headwind. Today I was holding 1/2 throttle against a 25 mph headwind. I'd say there was some power gained from the mod. Can't quantify it with charts but the paint marks on my throttle grip confirmed it well enough for me.

The bike was getting knocked around by the wind hard enough that my seat of the pants dynomometer wasn't able to feel the extra power. Maybe someone doing the full mod in a more hospitable environment might be able to report on it that way.

I have a small windscreen on my bike and from time to time I'd duck my head down below it to listen for any weird engine noises but everything sounded fine.

This mod looks like the real deal. Just make sure you get the ACR thing taken care of when doing the mod, unless you like long waits between starts.

I won't play with jetting until it's been ridden a while in different conditions. Definitely gonna take care of the ACR thing, though. We have an arbor press at work (plus a full blown machine shop across the street) so I'm gonna remove the cam shaft and take it in tomorrow.

Already the tank and plastics are off the bike to help it cool down...

Hope this is helpful.
 

Last edited by kansas-klx; 06-26-2011 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention that air box lid was on but with KDX snorkle with the bottom part cut off.
  #162  
Old 06-26-2011 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
don't you need to do both cams to get the results?
Honestly I don't know. What I do know for a fact is that now my intake noise is negligible...and it easly pulls the front tire up...without ANY convincing. And I have stock gearing. After seeing what the intake cam did... im going to dive in and do the exhaust. This week.
 
  #163  
Old 06-26-2011 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
Hoffy, did you do both cams?
Yeah, I did both cams and rejetted.

Originally Posted by Marcelino
Dynojet 128 DOES NOT MEAN A THING TO ME , I donīt know their sizes , what you supposed to have etc . So those numbers mean something only if you go by Dynojet nomenclature AND you are familiar with it .
Do the needle thing as I said before , check it the middle position , then raise one or two positions , then lower one or two positions . Monitor midrange , this is what the needle influences most .
The bike will tell you herself what is better , at least you will have a clue what direction is the right one , richer or poorer .
Idle and up to 25% acceleration are the pilot jet responsabilities , if the pilot jet is close enough you can adjust the mixture screw ( you do have the tool , donīt you ? ) . From 75% to 100% is main jet alone , thatīs why I say the best spot to start with a carb jetting is top acceleration .
You can also look at the plug :
In between runs ( if youīre doing main jet or needle ) DONīT let the bike idle , shut it of right away , then take the spark plug out and look at it : the cermic insulator should be white ( ish ) and the ring ( the portion of the thread thatīs inside the combustion chamber ) should be covered with a little dark gray soot . If itīs light gray or none at all you may be running too poor , if itīs almost black you are running too rich .
Of course nothing beats a O2 sensor , you can use ANY generic cheap aXX sensor you can find ; You just need to connect a cheap digital voltmeter and see if the voltage is below 0.5 volts ( poor ) or above 0.5 volts ( rich ) . I preffer the 4 wire ones ( the extra 2 wires are for the heather , 12 volts )
Itīs the most accurate , when youīre done you can take the sensor out and put a short screw in the bung . Save the O2 sensor for the next time when you ( or your friend with a hot barbeque and cold beverages ) need rejetting .
I did exactly what you said with the spark plug and the bike is definitely running lean.

NOTE TO ALL: I just completed this mod with the BB 351 kit. I have the stock pilot jet with the kouba fuel/air screw 2.5 turns out and the biggest main jet that came with the Dynojet kit (132 main) along with the needle clip 4 notches down from the top with two washer on top of it and the bike is still running lean. I'm going to my local bike shop to see if I can get a bigger main jet and try to figure out the conversion for the Dynojet kit so I get the next size up from Dynojet's #132 main jet. Just know that your bike will be running lean if you do this mod with the BB 351 until you really up the main jet. It should also be noted that I live in Ohio which is about 900ft average above sea level.
 
  #164  
Old 06-26-2011 | 09:20 PM
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before you go and get a bigger main,,, get a bigger pilot.
Remember that the main is 3/4 to WFO throttle.
Are you lean in that range?? does the bike kinda surge when WFO?
don't go fattening up the top when you need to fatten the middle to low.
what makes you think it's lean? the plug? it is difficult to read plugs these days with all the junk and no lead in the fuel. FEEL what the bike is doing. if it's twitchy and surging it is USUALLY an indicator of lean. BTW how did you break in the 351?
 
  #165  
Old 06-26-2011 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kansas-klx
I won't play with jetting until it's been ridden a while in different conditions. Definitely gonna take care of the ACR thing, though. We have an arbor press at work (plus a full blown machine shop across the street) so I'm gonna remove the cam shaft and take it in tomorrow.
Be careful about how you clamp the cam when using the press. A few years ago, a fellow KLXer had his dads shop try to do the ACR retiming and ended up breaking off one of the tabs that hold the timing sprocket on.

Make sure you have your stock cam position marked before you get near the press and know where you want the ACR to end up.

Just in case you haven't seen the ACR writeup:

KLX ACR mod

Ride on
Brewster
 
  #166  
Old 06-26-2011 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Brewster
Be careful about how you clamp the cam when using the press. A few years ago, a fellow KLXer had his dads shop try to do the ACR retiming and ended up breaking off one of the tabs that hold the timing sprocket on.

Make sure you have your stock cam position marked before you get near the press and know where you want the ACR to end up.
Thanks for the heads up!
 
  #167  
Old 06-27-2011 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
before you go and get a bigger main,,, get a bigger pilot.
Remember that the main is 3/4 to WFO throttle.
Are you lean in that range?? does the bike kinda surge when WFO?
don't go fattening up the top when you need to fatten the middle to low.
what makes you think it's lean? the plug? it is difficult to read plugs these days with all the junk and no lead in the fuel. FEEL what the bike is doing. if it's twitchy and surging it is USUALLY an indicator of lean. BTW how did you break in the 351?
I know it is lean from middle to low for sure. The throttle hesitates if I give it a quick turn. If I leave it sit for too long idling(1300-1600 RPMS), the fan will kick on because it's getting hot due to it being lean. I'm going to start off with upping the pilot jet one size and see if that helps. Also, there is a lot of decel popping so that leads me to believe that it's too lean as well. You'll have to elaborate what you mean by twitchy and surging because I don't think the bike is doing that. I ran the bike as hard as I could, ***** to the wall and got the motor nice and hot and then just cut the power without letting it idle or anything. I then pulled the tank and checked the plug. It is a new plug, but it looked the exact same as when I put it in there. And it was dry and clear.

When I broke in the bike, I initially started and let the bike idle for about ten minutes and then shut it off and let it cool completely down. I then started the bike and just rode the crap out of it for about 15 minutes.
 
  #168  
Old 06-27-2011 | 03:53 AM
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Can someone do a post on the ACR work? Post some pics of
The whole process. I've read about past ACR issues and this
Part of the mod is holding me back.
Marcelino, check your pm's!
Is a new valve cover gasket necessary? Sealant?
 

Last edited by brownie2; 06-27-2011 at 04:57 AM. Reason: Add text
  #169  
Old 06-27-2011 | 08:10 AM
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Yeah I agree with brownie2.... I need more info on the ACR part of this. I’m fairly mechanically minded but don’t quite understand the ACR part of this mod....

I’m also a little concerned that this mod may take away some of the reliability of the machine/easy maintenance.

I don’t really need the mod for power more just to get the intake noise down a little cause it annoys me.
 
  #170  
Old 06-27-2011 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by brownie2
Can someone do a post on the ACR work? Post some pics of
The whole process. I've read about past ACR issues and this
Part of the mod is holding me back.
Marcelino, check your pm's!
Is a new valve cover gasket necessary? Sealant?
You need to make a wodden clamp to hold the camshaft , drill a hole and then use a reamer to mimic the profile of the cams , then use 2 long bolts with big flat washers to tighten the 2 halves together . Caution ! the camshafts are the strongest at their lobes and the weakest at the sprocket tabs .
I used two wooden bloks from a pallet , I threw them away so I canīt show you any fotos .

Brownie2 : You donīt need a new gasket unless the old one is too dry or itīs broken . Use a little silicone ONLY at the half moons .

Brewster : Youīre from California , could you do the ACR for the people who donīt have the skills or the means to do it ? I think you did quite a few ACR mods , have a press and also an aluminum support for the camshaft . I donīt doubt that you understood the mod perfectly .
 

Last edited by Marcelino; 06-27-2011 at 09:55 AM.


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