KLX 250 ( 300 ) camshaft mod by Marcelino
#1131
Once I get some decent weather I'm going to do the MCM on my other KLX, would anyone be interested, or think it would be beneficial, for me to make a video on how to perform the mod? Some common issues during the process etc?
Last edited by SaltyDitchDr; 01-24-2021 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Added stuff
#1132
Absolutely. I personally think videos for DIY instructions are way better than just a few photos.
#1133
Ok, will do. I've read through the majority of this post and the instructions that the two members have made which has been so beneficial, but there are no videos really. And a few common mistakes seem to pop up regarding this mod as well and I am glad I read through all of this or I could of seen myself making those mistakes. Looking at that stock chain tensioner.
#1134
Ok, will do. I've read through the majority of this post and the instructions that the two members have made which has been so beneficial, but there are no videos really. And a few common mistakes seem to pop up regarding this mod as well and I am glad I read through all of this or I could of seen myself making those mistakes. Looking at that stock chain tensioner.
#1135
Ok, will do. I've read through the majority of this post and the instructions that the two members have made which has been so beneficial, but there are no videos really. And a few common mistakes seem to pop up regarding this mod as well and I am glad I read through all of this or I could of seen myself making those mistakes. Looking at that stock chain tensioner.
#1136
MCM video
Edit* Sorry I don't know how to not embed the video and just post the link.
Last edited by SaltyDitchDr; 02-04-2021 at 12:44 AM.
#1137
Looks good to me..
There are omissions - work was done without footage - For instance, each cam has two bolts holding the sprocket on. When lined up at TDC, only one sprocket bolt is visible on each cam. Step One: Each cams' bottom bolt ( the one not visible when at TDC) should be removed completely. this is accomplished by rotating the engine (off of TDC) multiple times. Then the engine must be reset to TDC and each cam completed - one at a time - and secured with ONLY the top (visible) sprocket bolt. Once MCM success is visually confirmed, the engine can be rotated multiple times again in order to reinstall the bottom ( non visible ) sprocket bolts..
Peeps will have to be able to figure such things out for themselves. The "safety net" is to do one cam at a time. As long as no one ever attempts to do both cams at once, they should be able to always find and re-find the correct/proper cam/sprocket relationship at TDC.. .
With the current problem of the stock ECM programming killing off upper end HP, a properly done MCM is most important to the newer EFI owners. Until the detune is able to be defeated, the MCM + stock header+ performance slipon + lidless airbox + EJK fueler is the most effective mod combo. Making a "monster" motor from off idle to about 7500 - 8000 rpm..
There are omissions - work was done without footage - For instance, each cam has two bolts holding the sprocket on. When lined up at TDC, only one sprocket bolt is visible on each cam. Step One: Each cams' bottom bolt ( the one not visible when at TDC) should be removed completely. this is accomplished by rotating the engine (off of TDC) multiple times. Then the engine must be reset to TDC and each cam completed - one at a time - and secured with ONLY the top (visible) sprocket bolt. Once MCM success is visually confirmed, the engine can be rotated multiple times again in order to reinstall the bottom ( non visible ) sprocket bolts..
Peeps will have to be able to figure such things out for themselves. The "safety net" is to do one cam at a time. As long as no one ever attempts to do both cams at once, they should be able to always find and re-find the correct/proper cam/sprocket relationship at TDC.. .
With the current problem of the stock ECM programming killing off upper end HP, a properly done MCM is most important to the newer EFI owners. Until the detune is able to be defeated, the MCM + stock header+ performance slipon + lidless airbox + EJK fueler is the most effective mod combo. Making a "monster" motor from off idle to about 7500 - 8000 rpm..
Last edited by Klxster; 02-04-2021 at 03:24 AM.
#1138
Looks good to me..
There are omissions - work was done without footage - For instance, each cam has two bolts holding the sprocket on. When lined up at TDC, only one sprocket bolt is visible on each cam. Step One: Each cams' bottom bolt ( the one not visible when at TDC) should be removed completely. this is accomplished by rotating the engine (off of TDC) multiple times. Then the engine must be reset to TDC and each cam completed - one at a time - and secured with ONLY the top (visible) sprocket bolt. Once MCM success is visually confirmed, the engine can be rotated multiple times again in order to reinstall the bottom ( non visible ) sprocket bolts..
Peeps will have to be able to figure such things out for themselves. The "safety net" is to do one cam at a time. As long as no one ever attempts to do both cams at once, they should be able to always find and re-find the correct/proper cam/sprocket relationship at TDC.. .
There are omissions - work was done without footage - For instance, each cam has two bolts holding the sprocket on. When lined up at TDC, only one sprocket bolt is visible on each cam. Step One: Each cams' bottom bolt ( the one not visible when at TDC) should be removed completely. this is accomplished by rotating the engine (off of TDC) multiple times. Then the engine must be reset to TDC and each cam completed - one at a time - and secured with ONLY the top (visible) sprocket bolt. Once MCM success is visually confirmed, the engine can be rotated multiple times again in order to reinstall the bottom ( non visible ) sprocket bolts..
Peeps will have to be able to figure such things out for themselves. The "safety net" is to do one cam at a time. As long as no one ever attempts to do both cams at once, they should be able to always find and re-find the correct/proper cam/sprocket relationship at TDC.. .
#1139
First post MCM
This is my first post but I've been reading everything on the klx for the last 2 yrs. I did the mcm last week pulled the lid off, installed a #40 pilot and k152 main per instructions. I'm running 13/47 sprokets and a 2 brothers slip on w/ original header. I needed the extra front wheel lift for the sugary sand we have here north of Pensacola.
Im 59 yrs old and 200 lbs. I just got back from an off road ride AND...MAN...WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!
I'M no wheelie expert but she will power up the front tire off the ground now and really shines offroad. Thanks to all those who went before.
I have one question. If I rev real quick from idle it sounds almost like just a moment of pre-ignition.
I have removed the spring from the acr and am wondering if that's what I hear?
BRDN
Im 59 yrs old and 200 lbs. I just got back from an off road ride AND...MAN...WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!
I'M no wheelie expert but she will power up the front tire off the ground now and really shines offroad. Thanks to all those who went before.
I have one question. If I rev real quick from idle it sounds almost like just a moment of pre-ignition.
I have removed the spring from the acr and am wondering if that's what I hear?
BRDN
#1140
I doubt that is the noise. The spring allows the shoes to reach full extension well below idle rpm. Noise could actually be a shade of detonation, try higher octane gas if running 87 It might possibly be the tensioner if still running the OEM, but if so you aren't at a point where it will create a problem. If you are still running the OEM tensioner the tell tale for it going bad is usually rattling around 4000-6000 rpm. But at this point I will assure you if the tensioner is going bad you definitely still have plenty of time before any serious issue could arise. It just doesn't strike me as a problem with that kind of noise.
You might also slightly raise your idle. I know mine is idling a shade higher than most.
You might also slightly raise your idle. I know mine is idling a shade higher than most.