I'm having a problem with the KLR 250. There is no fire at all, the bike just died on a ride. Can any one steer me in the right direction of what to look for first. I priced the coil and CDI box, i hope thats not the problem, they are $595 plus tax for the both. Any help would be great.

Thanks Kenny

 

if you have a manual or access to one there are a few things to check. first i would check the primary and secondary resistance of the coil. the coil is a lot cheaper than the cdi im sure

 

Are you saying you don't have spark? How did you figure out the bike had no spark? Before you go out and spend that kind of cash on something you might not need, check out the simple things first. Like the connectors in the wiring make sure they are clean and together, check the ground on the coil and make sure theres no stupid safety switches anywhere that aren't working. Is there a kickstand safety switch, or is there one in the clutch lever on the KLR250?

 

Good point Matt. Someone in this forum had their kickstand switch short out. I believe they were able to by-pass it, but I'm not sure how.

 

I checked all of that stuff first, connections, in-line fuse. I used a spark tester to checker the plug wire, cleaned the plug boot. I'm at a lose now.Is ther a way to check the coil and CDI?

Thanks Kenny

 

There is a testing procedure for the coil and CDI that can be found in the service manual. I'd like to help you out but I do not have a manual for the KLR250. Heres the p/n for the service manual 99924-1050-01 and the supplement 99924-1051-14 and they're $34.95 each. For testing the coil and cdi you will need a multimeter, if you don't have one I suggest picking up one made by Fluke, one of those cheep cardboard freight I mean Harbor Freight $4.99 multimeters aren't the greatest. As far safety switches, there generally is only two wires going to the switch. If you're lucky the manufacturer used a male and female connector so you can unplug the switch and plug the wires right together bypassing the switch. But when not so lucky, you'll need to make a jumper wire or just cut the connectors off and solder the wires together.

 

Several people have reorted a loose connector on the right side of the machine. The connnector is not clipped, but still appears to be pushed together. The engine will eventually just quit and not restart.

Here is a link to a thread.

Quit Thread

If anyone can scan a diagram or procedure we can help get you through the diagnosis.