Key Switch removal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 12-14-2010, 10:01 AM
neilaction's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,985
Default

Originally Posted by dan888
Beers on me if we ever get the chance.
Dan
Thats at least 2 people on here offering to buy me beer.
mmm beer.
I'll start packing in the morning.

Originally Posted by dan888
I forgot to add that I plan on using a double double pole quadruple throw with a half twist!
A personal favourite.
 
  #32  
Old 12-14-2010, 01:57 PM
redpillar's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Posts: 1,389
Default

A half twist of lime for the beer!
 
  #33  
Old 12-14-2010, 03:07 PM
IDRIDR's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 4,507
Default

Originally Posted by neilaction
Thats at least 2 people on here offering to buy me beer.
mmm beer.
I'll start packing in the morning.
Neil -- make that at least 3...this is a good thread. Your adventures into switchdome are appreciated.

And there's at least one in the fridge for Dan and Red too!

My switch is now attached to the bars with a couple zip ties. Stock headlight and instruments were removed during tear down. Had to take her for a few runs around the shop yard after jet kit and HMF wheelupsweet. What a difference the new pilot and drilling choke circuit makes on start up ! Night and day difference all around. I can't wait to get out on the trail. Anyway...getting off track here. My '06 doesn't have a parking light circuit on the ignition switch and I certainly don't want to add one. Will put a spst on the headlight ground/earth wire and hopefully the same on the ignition for now (or do I need the ddpqtw/ht?) with a keyed switch sometime later after figuring out what I want to do with the whole instrument situation. Keep up the good reports.
 
  #34  
Old 01-15-2011, 02:32 AM
dan888's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 3,406
Default

Are you guys using high amperage dc rated switches to replace the ignition switch? I stopped at a local electronics supply house, and the guy said I needed heavy duty switches, that he didn't have. I tried to explain that I didn't think the on off switch carried the high amp starting current, but he doubted what i was saying. I had it temporarily wired up with an old cheap toggle switch i had laying around. It worked, I don't know how long it would last though. I bought a small 10 amp rated switch to give it a go anyway. Just curious if you guys think it is an issue?
Thanks Dan
 
  #35  
Old 01-15-2011, 11:55 AM
neilaction's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,985
Default

Originally Posted by dan888
Are you guys using high amperage dc rated switches to replace the ignition switch? I stopped at a local electronics supply house, and the guy said I needed heavy duty switches, that he didn't have. I tried to explain that I didn't think the on off switch carried the high amp starting current, but he doubted what i was saying. I had it temporarily wired up with an old cheap toggle switch i had laying around. It worked, I don't know how long it would last though. I bought a small 10 amp rated switch to give it a go anyway. Just curious if you guys think it is an issue?
Thanks Dan
A switch rated at 10 amps DC should be enough.
Your right about the switch not carrying current for the starter motor.
Think headlight, tail and plate light, ignition circuit, indicators and any accessories you may have connected.

I used one which was lying around and I don't know the rating.
I could go and check.
Hasn't missed a beat in the years I've been using it.
 
  #36  
Old 01-15-2011, 02:38 PM
dan888's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 3,406
Default

Thanks Neil, that's the way I'm going to do it, if it burns up I'll upgrade it. Keeping dry down there?
Dan
 
  #37  
Old 01-15-2011, 04:06 PM
redpillar's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Posts: 1,389
Default

You willhave no problems wth that switch.
 
  #38  
Old 01-16-2011, 12:54 AM
neilaction's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,985
Default

Originally Posted by dan888
Thanks Neil, that's the way I'm going to do it, if it burns up I'll upgrade it. Keeping dry down there?
Dan
No probs on this side of Aus.
Well not flooding anyway.
We have had one of the driest years on record and we desperately need some rain.
But the entire east coast has been hammered with rain.
And that was after a 10 years drought.
 
  #39  
Old 01-16-2011, 06:08 AM
neilaction's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,985
Default

I checked the switch I installed and its rated at 10A AC 250V or 15A AC 125V.
It has no DC rating which is normally a lot lower than a switches AC rating.

But i've had no issue and the switch was originally installed in March 07.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...highlight=dash
 
  #40  
Old 01-16-2011, 12:42 PM
dan888's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 3,406
Default

Thanks again Neil and Red, My switch has the same ratings as the ones Neil just posted. I just finished cleaning and re greasing all the swing-arm bearings yesterday. Think I will work on a mount for the Vapor spedo today, and integrate the On Off switch into that mount.

Neil wrote "We have had one of the driest years on record and we desperately need some rain.
But the entire east coast has been hammered with rain.
And that was after a 10 years drought. "
Doesn't that just figure? Too bad you couldn't dig a ditch from one end of AUS to the other and trade the water off.
Dan
 


Quick Reply: Key Switch removal



All times are GMT. The time now is 04:58 AM.