Key Switch removal
#1
Key Switch removal
Hi Guys,
Have any of you guys removed your ignition key switch? The fasteners that connect it to the top triple tree do not seem to have a head. It looks like it bolts on from below. Any good ideas will be rewarded.
Have any of you guys removed your ignition key switch? The fasteners that connect it to the top triple tree do not seem to have a head. It looks like it bolts on from below. Any good ideas will be rewarded.
#2
Most lock cylinders have what they call "break away bolts" The head breaks off when you tighten them. Keeps people from just unbolting the lock. On cars we drill them out and use an "easy out" to remove the bolts. Having a reverse drill bit helps too.
Last edited by tngw1500se; 11-25-2010 at 03:38 AM.
#4
Crown lager will be fine.
Removed mine ages ago,
You need to drill out the bolts holding the lock to the triple.
There will be enough sticking out to grip using vice grips.
Inside the key switch is a resistor (about 100ohms from memory) and this needs to be wired into the wiring as well as fitting an alternative on/off switch.
I pulled apart the whole assembly and removed the resistor that was inside soldered to the switch contact plate.
I drew the schematic.
I used a single pole switch for the main power, hard wired in the resistor, and didn't connect the park lights.
Heineken is fine if you have trouble finding Crownies.
Removed mine ages ago,
You need to drill out the bolts holding the lock to the triple.
There will be enough sticking out to grip using vice grips.
Inside the key switch is a resistor (about 100ohms from memory) and this needs to be wired into the wiring as well as fitting an alternative on/off switch.
I pulled apart the whole assembly and removed the resistor that was inside soldered to the switch contact plate.
I drew the schematic.
I used a single pole switch for the main power, hard wired in the resistor, and didn't connect the park lights.
Heineken is fine if you have trouble finding Crownies.
Last edited by neilaction; 11-25-2010 at 04:17 AM.
#5
Thanks for the help. I have a bl/w and bl/y that short a 100ohm resistor when in the off position and a brown and a white that are normally open. Only two pair. I will find a two pole single throw key switch that will fit where I want to mount it, and add the resistor.
Thanks again and your beer is in the mail, in a zip lock bag.
Thanks again and your beer is in the mail, in a zip lock bag.
#6
Thanks for the help. I have a bl/w and bl/y that short a 100ohm resistor when in the off position and a brown and a white that are normally open. Only two pair. I will find a two pole single throw key switch that will fit where I want to mount it, and add the resistor.
Thanks again and your beer is in the mail, in a zip lock bag.
Thanks again and your beer is in the mail, in a zip lock bag.
The resistor is some extra security to make it harder to hot wire.
When shorted it kills the ignition.
If you intend keeping this security resistor you will need a double pole double throw switch. If doing as i did and ditching the extra security, a single pole single throw will be enough.
The other pole on the stock switch is only for the parking lights.
Sounds like your bike doesn't have this.
Don't worry about posting the beer.
I'll pop round to pick it up.
#7
So the resistor cct is an input to the ECU. Good idea. I will see what kind of switch I can get that will fit in one of these.
http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_..._switch_mounts
I will put an ale on ice for you. Will you be arriving by air?
http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_..._switch_mounts
I will put an ale on ice for you. Will you be arriving by air?