See here.

 

 

G'day all, i'm new to this forum having just bought an '07 KLX250 with 800km on the odo and looking like a brand new bike.

I'm going to work the carb and check out the derestriction options. I'm very interested to have a look at the service bulletin mentioned in this thread but for the life of me I can't see it on my screen. I can link to the bikepoint article and see the section of the carby but no refernce to the bulletin. Can someone email it to me or repost.

Maybe i'm doing something wrong ??

Cheers

 

I have the 2009 KLX250S. So far the slide is still the stock diameter.
Do I drill the slide to 7/32"?
What does this do or help with?

Thanks Chris

 

In case it's not clear yet, only the Aussie spec slide has the extra holes that need plugging. The holes prevent the slide from opening completely for emissions purposes. Plugging them obviously makes a big difference. The Aus bike doesn't have the air suction plumbling is why.

I hope none of you mooks with non-Aus bikes run out and plug your bleed hole. That would be funny though

 

Here ya go.
Check out my photo page for more pictures of KLX mods.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2437311...7604183752196/

 

G'day mate, thanks for posting that image, very useful. I'll get a look at the carb over the weekend and maybe do some airbox mods too. After cutting out the screen and replacing the filter do you run with the tope of the airbox on or off ??

I'm still standard pretty well everything so i'll post improvments as they arise.
Same continent just the opposite side which is a shame as it would be really useful to ride a modified bike to see the differences.

Anybody near Maitland, NSW ??

Cheers

A

 

Lid off, Twin Air filter, screen out, Two Bro's M7 pipe and all the carb mods necessary.

 

I guess this is specific to the Aus members only.
I bought an 07 KLX250 last week with 800km. Rode for another 160km or so and it was really doughy so I rang the dealer in Melbourne who originally sold the bike to check if any derestriction had been done. They said the slide holes would have been filled but not sure on anything else. I took the top of the carb and removed the slide to find this was indeed the case. The needle didn't have any grooves so I figured everything else was standard. Next thing I rocked up to my local dealer in Newcastle and asked them to check the carb and jets. They confirmed that everything was standard and put in new needle jet, collar, clip, main all as per the service bulletin list that was posted by 'westozklx'. What was not changed was the pilot jet and I have a question about the note that is written at the bottom of the list of parts.
#920641119 Pilot jet. Is this the stock jet or a new one, if so what size.
The reason for this question is that after bringing the bike home and going for a ride, the mid, top end is quite strong but the bottom end is non existant to the point of stalling. I figured it's probably had the jets thrown in but not been tuned with the pilot. To say i'm not impressed is an understatement. Since I paid good dollars for this service i'll be going back to get a proper set up but in the meantime it is apparent why so many people use the kouba pilot tee screw, i'll be ordering one too.

Took the plug out this morning and it was totally black, way too rich. At present I have a stock aussie spec header and pipe and have the snorkel out. Has anyone done a jetting mod with the same setup of exhaust and airbox and if so what are the base line setting for the needle and airscrew. I reckon i'll be getting to know my carb very well over the next few weeks.

Would be good to just pull on the boots and ride rather than spend time on the keyboard, whadyathink ???

 

Take the airbox lid off and leave it on the shelf forever.

Get to Bunnings and find a small flat screwdriver that you can put a 90o bend in so you can adjust the fuel screw while the carb is on the bike. Get the idea? (Until you get the Kouba.)

The stock pilot is #35, fine for your stock pipe. You just need to open up the fuel screw to get the pick up from idle right. (some where around 2 turns out from lightly seated.)

As for the rich (black) plug. As you now have the adjustable N1TC needle in the carb', raise the clip one notch on the needle (lowers he needle, leaner) to lean out the mid range and some top end.
While you have the carb' slide out ( no need to remove the carb' for all of this. The tank off will allow enough access to remove the carb' top and remove the slide.) Drill the vent hole on the carb' slide to 7/64", Bunnings have the drill bit.

The AUS bikes also have a restrictor in the crankcase vent hose (the grey hose under the carb' that goes from the case to the airbox.) Remove the hose totally and right in the centre of the hose is a rubber bung. Remove it and put it on the shelf next to the airbox lid.

The stock exhaust is the real limiting factor in the lack of stock performance on this bike. Has a cat in it and the end opening would be small for a pee wee 50. Get a new muffler at the earliest opportunity. I've stuck with the stock header and have plenty of performance to crack a smile.

Finally, next time you do take the whole carb' out, it will pay to remove the carb' de-ice kit that runs through the carb'. Becomes a real PITA messing with the coolent every time you work on the carb'. Bunnings again for the part needed. I did a write up on here HOW TO! search my posts for "carb' de-ice."