Is it a waste of time and money to replace fork springs alone or do the valves need replaced as well?
I'm not a really aggressive rider but the other day I was chasing a couple of bigger bikes and I was bottoming out jumping some water breaks. Over all I like the way this bike sticks and points. I don't care for the diving when braking and when I run over a local rock garden it seems the front suspension compresses and kills the forward momentum of the bike.
I've tinkered with the adjustments and I don't think that's gonna cure it. Any ideas.

 

Heavier springs will help stop the dive and bottoming but revalving can stop the harshness or the inability of the forks to react to the small stuff resulting from stiffer springs. Some bikes have valving that is in the ballpark and the addition of heavier springs works out well. Since I like to ride a converted mx bike for offroad, I always have them revalved so they're working the best they can. Same goes for my klx400. So you could try the springs and go from there. Good luck!

 

I just did just the valves and Oooo what a difference. My bike is an SF so it already had Double extra stiff springs. With the good valves its a really nice ride.

I too tried messing with adjustments in the front. It did not do much for me. The rear seems to respond to adjustment much better and is good enough for me for now.

If you are paying to have the work done, get the valves done too because its the same labor all over again to do springs or valves.

David

 

As Stroker suggested why not just do the springs first, and then see how that works out for you. You don't have to tear down the fork to do the springs, so you're not painting yourself into an expensive corner. If you do revalving or not, you're probably needing new springs anyway unless you're extremely light...and I'm mean almost anorexic girl light. I think you'll appreciate the springs regardless if you do anything else.

On revalving, if you're really wanting to ride some dirt, the revalving is a big leap forward IMO for the performance and enjoyment of the bike. In stock setup the rear shock is really lukewarm at best, and the front fork borders on dangerous if pushed in rocks and other real off road rubble at any speed...severe compression spiking. And I don't mean you have to be riding at some supercross level to appreciate the difference. Just trail riding steps up a ton with the revalved suspension. Now, if you're just going to ride an occasional graded dirt road or such, then perhaps you won't realize the full benefit, and it wouldn't be worth it. Otherwise, revalve.

 

I did the springs last year and they helped as far as sponginess went, but it did nothing to smooth out the fast harsh bumps. I did the valves recently so I expect that I will notice a big difference now. It is no big deal to do either job but if you do the springs now and the valves later you may appreciate what difference each makes

 

I got some .44kg motopro springs off a member here and they made a world of difference in the front end dive. Easy to change too. Some write ups on here.
I probably should re-valve mine too, and after some recent how to posts I'm thinking I may do it. For you's guys that have already done it, what do they run $$ for the do it yourself-er?
Dan

 

Dan, the kit for the fork is about $150-$170 depending on source. Same for the shock. Your oil, any fork seals, bushing replacement, or other has to added. I don't think I'd tear my fork down the first time to do a revalve without doing new fork seals too. Depending on bike mileage, bushings might be a good idea also. The bushings and seals are very easy to do at home when the fork is opened up. I've seen your work here...you'd have no trouble. In fact, knowing you here, I'd think you'd get downright nerdy and giddy about it once you got in there and starting playing with the shims.

I'll also add that I think the rear shock is waaaaay easier to work on than the fork. The shock is stupid simple in the case of our KYB model.

 

I tried to save some money by not redoing the fork seals when I had the valves changed. Dumb mistake...I knew better. Within 500 miles I had a leaker. Change the seals when you go to the trouble to change the valves.

 

Comedy Central Monkey Joke on Yahoo! Video

Mine did the same. When I did my valves I had the seals replaced by the local suspension guy, and he tole me that the Kawasaki seals are not bad but definitely not top of the line.

 

If it tracks and points the way you want it, then I'd say just do the springs. Don't blow a bunch of money on something the internet told you to if you don't think you need it. Only you are going to know if you need it.

If you're running along on lots of sharp bumps while turning, then you'll notice the shortcomings of your valving. I ride on rocky jeep trails in the Black Hills every year so I revalved my front forks.