I'm hoping you catch my drift, but not sure you are. Your work is setting up what Dyno Jet won't do.

If you do it with Kiehin and/or Mikuni parts you can build a kit for the CVK that would fill the bill for a large majority of riders of KLX250s of any year. That is of value. I would have loved to just buy a proven kit, but after looking around, that didn't exist. What did exist that had the least complaints was a compilation of Kawasaki part numbers and some instructions once I get the parts. Sure, anyone can do it, but most want to simply get a kit and do the work. That was the way I was with my Zephyr cam chain tensioner. Had APE responded and done the longer bolt I wouldn't have ever done any tensioners. But they didn't, so I filled a need for the average rider like me that didn't really want to make the part, but rather just buy it - but I went one step further, making a design that was less costly to do than the other designs making it easier yet to just buy the part.

My tensioner thing really was never about the money, it was about the riders and the bikes. Otherwise I'd have jacked up prices closer to that of the others who make tensioners. I haven't. There is some profit, but minimal and I've bought kits back if not installed when riders sold bikes, as well as replacing one and refunding one of kits that got lost after entering another country's mail system Heck, I blew about $100 getting a set up Hyosung tensioners right for a rider in Australia. I've still not made that up, but that didn't matter, it was doing the new work. I've got a few designs that never did sell after riders asked if I had them and I made the parts. Such is life, but the parts are there waiting to go someday. So yes, I've made some money, but that wasn't the main goal.

That opportunity is present here. You know enough and could set up that kit the riders could use, possibly at a lower cost than Dyno Jet because of personal involvement with the necessary instrumentation to do the work. I just see you're on to something like I was when I made my first several parts. I, for one, would enthusiastically recommend a plug and play kit for CVKs.

If doing a kit isn't of interest, that's the way it is.

I just don't see the Dyno Jet kit as good at plug and play as the KLX300 stuff and someone like you could prove it as such or not, improve on the set up, then put together a kit that works based on your research with/without lid and some consideration for altitude, by working with a few people at high altitudes. That can be done via email and phone, as TNC and I did with the KLX250 tensioner - I had actually never seen a KLX250 when he got the first part. Fact is if I get the 36 working good, I'd pull the brass out of my 34 and send it to you, or send the whole carb, for use to help test out versus DJ stuff.

My personal interest in the 36 is just because I want to try get that sort of performance off road. It may or may not be money I shouldn't have spent. Not any denigration of work done on the CVK. I could have lived with it just like I have with the CVK40 on the 650.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm going to go with the TM carb. Where do you guys recommend ordering the it from?

 

Best I've seen new was around $278 on ebay. Occasionally there are used bargains, but very rarely. I think I've only seen two and they disappeared rather quickly with the "buy now" on them.

 

It looks like Amazon has it for 255 with free shipping. I think I'll order it there.

 

The carb is ordered. Is there anything else I should get prior to installing?

 

I spent a lot of time doing research, looking up anything I could find on the 36-68 with jetting. I looked for ones where the bike was stock bore with minimal mods to match up with where I am starting. Looking for threads on this forum, Thumper Page, and ADVrider for any information and performance comments. I also was in contact with people on this site. The idea, to get as close to plug and play as possible.

Here is one thread I bookmarked: TM 36-68 with a stock bore?


One other must is the Mikuni tuning manual information with the jetting specs indicating all richer and leaner jetting brass. Seems the TM36-68 falls under the RS, TM36 and TM33 heading, you have to look close. Jets R Us has good listing displaying what is richer and some dimensional information. Sudco has information, maybe duplicate, look mid-page for some links to the specific tuning manual pages. The pages are apparently actual Mikuni tuning manual information on all jetting.

Hope that helps a bit. I'm sure others will give you more... and I'll be looking too. I know there is information I've missed with the searches.

 

Rock Hugger, If it is not clear to you at this point, allow me to make it so. You will use a setup that you find in here, or in another forum, or you will "invent your own wheel". Here is our google doc with setup info, there is a little info on the 36-68 but it seems our data is mostly with BB351's - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...Dnc/edit#gid=0

Once you choose a setup to try, you'll be ordering the parts required.

 

If I were you, I would seek out Richard Avatar for knowledge and advice. He has recently been actively pursuing performance with the TM36 and a TM40 on stock bore..

 

Just follow klx678's link and you'll what jetting most people are using rockhugger

 

Really, if you're fortunate you don't become a guru. You hit the combination you need first or second time out! That is my goal.

Being a bit of a butt head, I gave Richard and KLXter a bit of a rough time at times. Richard has been doing some broad reaching experimentation with carburetors, trying things out as opportunity presents itself. KLXter has been playing with the OEM carb. Both are using A/F meters, a tool few have. They are taking time to work with things to see what's working how. At this point some of my questions are to try to gain from their knowledge. I'm still curious about what variations they see on one setting over a span of conditions.

It's about getting the right carburetion as close to the first time as possible, looking for any advantage possible. Without equipment one becomes the guru because one is fighting with the jetting using trial and error... not something I personally want to do. I hate digging the carb out and wedging it back in. Ain't like the old Butaco...



Now that's a carb I could handle removing a few times... and did on mine.