Which jet kit is best? (general 250S jetting questions)
#21
I ride an average of 1100 ft, up to 2200 ft majority of the time. At the absolute highest and lowest according the last source I checked at very few times I may be as low as 850's ft and as high as 2380's ft briefly.
One more question, say I went the way of the n1tc needle, would I still have to/should drill holes or cut coils off of the spring. Or is that stuff only for the DJ kit?
decisions decisions
thanks for the info again guys.
________
Justin bieber fan
One more question, say I went the way of the n1tc needle, would I still have to/should drill holes or cut coils off of the spring. Or is that stuff only for the DJ kit?
decisions decisions
thanks for the info again guys.
________
Justin bieber fan
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 06:58 AM.
#22
Yes. Drill the carb' vent hole to 7/64". Don't bother with any mods to the spring, just put it back the way it came out.
For your elevation I'd go the #128 main jet, #35 (stock) pilot jet. and start with the fuel screw 2 turns out from lightly seated.
BTW, the non USA jetting for a stock (choked) bike is #132 main and #35 pilot. Just fit the #128.
You'll be amazed at the difference for $30. (OE N1TC needle, collar and clip, OE#128 main, OE#132 main.)
Don't forget to remove the snorkel.
For your elevation I'd go the #128 main jet, #35 (stock) pilot jet. and start with the fuel screw 2 turns out from lightly seated.
BTW, the non USA jetting for a stock (choked) bike is #132 main and #35 pilot. Just fit the #128.
You'll be amazed at the difference for $30. (OE N1TC needle, collar and clip, OE#128 main, OE#132 main.)
Don't forget to remove the snorkel.
Last edited by WestOzKLX; 08-25-2008 at 11:14 AM.
#23
I am putting on the 300 Header, the Muzzy 300 slip on, the 250s DJ kit, and removing the snorkel. Any ideas on the setup for around 620 feet? That seems to be the average for AL. Thanks for the help guys
#25
okay, you said you were a little nervous about doing these mods. well, all you have to do is follow these instructions and you'll be fine. this should be a sticky as it is a step by step process in doing these little mods. ignore changing the pilot jet, keep the stock one unless you have to turn the a/f screw more than 3 turns out from fully seated. I'd recommend putting the T-screw (air/fuel) in if you don't like ripping your carb out to make adjustments on it. It's made by Kouba.
http://www.hmfengineering.com/forums...ead.php?t=1617
and on my '06, I did just buy the N1TC and a 128 main along with collar and circlip. the only reason I went with DJ this time is because it takes a while to get the Kawi/Keihin parts from ronayers.com whereas the DJ off ebay got to me in 2 days. Both have the same end result as I've done both to an '06 and now my '09 with a BG and Muzzy full exhaust. The DJ does the same thing as just the N1TC, no difference. The only thing the DJ has over the parts is more jets to choose from to fine tune with. Drill the slide, it's no big deal. It's plastic and takes all of 2 seconds to slide the bit in and out of. Do not cut your spring, the drilling is safer as no one really knows how many coils to cut off or how short the new '09 kit spring is.
finally, when all is said and done, in real world dollars, buying the DJ kit off ebay is around $48 and buying the Kawi/Keihin parts separately turns out to be around $35 with shipping charges. There's around $15 difference but you do get more (correct drill bit size to drill out the slide with, more main jets, the sheetmetal screw you'll need to remove the cover of the a/f screw, etc) with the DJ kit along with instructions and recommendations.
http://www.hmfengineering.com/forums...ead.php?t=1617
and on my '06, I did just buy the N1TC and a 128 main along with collar and circlip. the only reason I went with DJ this time is because it takes a while to get the Kawi/Keihin parts from ronayers.com whereas the DJ off ebay got to me in 2 days. Both have the same end result as I've done both to an '06 and now my '09 with a BG and Muzzy full exhaust. The DJ does the same thing as just the N1TC, no difference. The only thing the DJ has over the parts is more jets to choose from to fine tune with. Drill the slide, it's no big deal. It's plastic and takes all of 2 seconds to slide the bit in and out of. Do not cut your spring, the drilling is safer as no one really knows how many coils to cut off or how short the new '09 kit spring is.
finally, when all is said and done, in real world dollars, buying the DJ kit off ebay is around $48 and buying the Kawi/Keihin parts separately turns out to be around $35 with shipping charges. There's around $15 difference but you do get more (correct drill bit size to drill out the slide with, more main jets, the sheetmetal screw you'll need to remove the cover of the a/f screw, etc) with the DJ kit along with instructions and recommendations.
Last edited by 09KLXowner; 08-25-2008 at 05:27 PM.
#26
You need to read between the bikes. Your bike will be different, mine was. I started out w/ the stock pilot then went to a 38 w/3.25 turns out on the a/f screw. Not wanting the kouba fs2 a/f screw to fall out (kouba warns you after 2.5 it might) I went to a 40 pilot 1.75-2.0 turns out 128 main jet and its alot better. No more restricted feel. The light weight wife got her klx up to 91 mph (withthe calibration off its about 83-4 mph real world).
Goto the second post in this forum, look for dirtsurfers post it has pics/instructions and its so easy a cavewoman can do it. Don't be scared everyone has done it. Come back and ask questions.
Goto the second post in this forum, look for dirtsurfers post it has pics/instructions and its so easy a cavewoman can do it. Don't be scared everyone has done it. Come back and ask questions.
#28
thanks very much for all your help and info guys. Gotta get this stuff ordered, the mirrors on on their way (i hate the stock ones) and now I gotta get those bars chopped down. They are about a half inch too wide. And i got the sag too tight on the back. It says 10cm sag. I measured it about 5 times. But it feels like I'm being dumped forward all the time. I'm gonna drop it to 11 or maybe 11.5 cm sag I think.
________
Ford Puma
________
Ford Puma
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 06:59 AM.
#29
OH! what about this whole washer/spacer thing. I keep seeing how the DJ kits use spacers and washers above AND below the needle or some nonsense.... I've never see this before in a carb. If I use the N1TC needle, do I need this?
That should be it right? Bigger main, N1TC needle (with clip and collar), back out the fuel screw....good as gold.
edit: This is kind of important, I can't believe I forgot it. Can someone just descriptively give me a verbal instruction of where to put this 7/64's hole (Just one hole right?). If you have a pic that would be great. I saw the drawing on the DJ site and that's like looking at childrens drawings and seeing the elephant they blotted on the paper.
________
INDICA STRAINS
That should be it right? Bigger main, N1TC needle (with clip and collar), back out the fuel screw....good as gold.
edit: This is kind of important, I can't believe I forgot it. Can someone just descriptively give me a verbal instruction of where to put this 7/64's hole (Just one hole right?). If you have a pic that would be great. I saw the drawing on the DJ site and that's like looking at childrens drawings and seeing the elephant they blotted on the paper.
________
INDICA STRAINS
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 06:59 AM.
#30
You got it. Forget about the washers with the N1TC needle. You still need the collar and clip.
Drill the hole below the needle hole.
Drill the hole below the needle hole.
Last edited by WestOzKLX; 09-02-2008 at 02:38 PM.