Is there any possibility that it would be a stator issue? I tested my battery at work and it said 'Charge Required' yet the battery always has enough power to turn the bike on. I wasn't able to put it on the charger at work because it was already charging one for a customer, but I put it on the tender when I got home and didn't have much luck the next morning. I have a new stator that a friend of mine had left over after he got rid of his klx, but I'd rather not swap it if it's not necessary.

I checked the spark plug the other day and it looked fine. No excessive soot on it, and there was only a minor spot of white on one side. Wondering if it may just need a new battery. I don't mind pushing it to start it, but Sometimes it'd be nice to get back to hitting a button.

 

I could bump off my KLX650 and it ran fine. Sometimes would start right up after stopping for gas, but most often needed bumped off. Spark plug - looked good, no fouling, good color. Replaced the plug and all was right with the world.

Problem was the electrode edges were all rounded off, spark jumps best from a crisp sharp edge. We're not talking radical melted, just smooth rounded. Rounded edges cause issues with the spark arcing. The smooth surface doesn't provide any good peaks for arcing, high resistance to doing so, under starting conditions, the battery is feeding the starter and ignition. Once running with the full juice, no problem.

Besides it's cheap and easy to try. Why not do it? Worst case scenario it is still hard starting, best - it works.

As for your battery, motorcycle charging systems are marginal on virtually all sub-1000cc models. Your battery is low from trying to start the bike and the charging system isn't strong enough to actually pull it up to full charge. Learned that when working in the bike shop. Honda told us to charge every battery to full charge before selling, to avoid problems. They said it's about 75% charged on filling, but most bikes don't have enough strength to actually fully charge the battery - so do it first.

You should do what is cheapest first. Charge the battery and replace the plug. Of course if you want to blow hundreds with maybes... your call.

 

I'm trying to not spend any money right now, which is why I was asking about the regulator since I have a spare one now. I have the battery on the tender and will probably leave it there for a couple days just to see if it makes a difference. I know it's a Ballistic battery, but I've never heard of that company before and don't know anybody else that has used their batteries so I'm not sure about the reliability. A new battery at work would cost $65ish and we don't carry the spark plug so I'd have to go to an auto parts store which would cost a bit more.

I always try to start it with the electric start whenever I'm going somewhere just to see if it will work, and it also helps get gas to the engine, but I hate that it resets my clock and trip meters. I usually use the Trip A to track gas miles, although I also use fuelly.com, and I use Trip B to track miles since I bought it.......which is pointless now.

 

Bluntly speaking, what is pointless is screwing around when a $9.00 plug (WalMart price, I'd check a shop) could be the entire solution to the problem and can be fixed in five minutes if you take your time. This is almost penny wise pound foolish. I would think your time has value.

As for trouble shooting, I learned to with the easiest and/or cheapest thing first. In this case it is a spark plug that can be put in without any disassembling - easiest and relatively cheap.

Plus the fact that what you are experiencing is exactly what I mentioned I had happen to me when my plug was bad. Run down battery trying to start, more often won't start than start, regardless of cold or hot, bumps off fine. Difference is on the 650 it isn't an easy fix. I have to pull the tank to replace the plug. Still that was my first thing I did and, miracle of miracles, that was the entire issue! The plug was just plain shot and you cannot tell at a glance.

How do you even know your extra regulator is any good anyway?

 

It's re-setting your computer because the battery voltage drops low enough to cut off power to the dash when you are trying to start the bike.
Time for a new battery.

 

Yes KLX678, you do have valid points and I don't mean to contest anything you say. I should say that I work at walmart (booo, but at least I'm in the automotive shop), and I even checked cross references today but we don't have any of those spark plugs either. I will stop by a parts store on the way home tomorrow and pick up a plug since I have Tuesday off. I usually use my days off for riding or tinkering with the bike anyway, so the timeframe fits. I have no idea if the regulator is good or bad. It should be good since it's a new part, but I would just plug and play and hope for the best. If nothing would change then either both regulators are bad, or they're both good.

MaximusPrime (love the name btw) I know my battery has been a little sketchy lately, but most of the time when it is run down it is because I continually try to start it without it actually starting. The rest of the time it runs fine and I have no issues with it. After all the money I've spent on it recently, I need to take about a month off from spending so I can save money and continue on with my customizing. A battery is on the list of things to buy, along with different pegs. I wouldn't mind trying a gel battery since it is a little more lightweight. If you or anyone can pass along some insight as to which battery brand would be best, or what kind of pegs would work great, I would appreciate it. Been thinking about Pivot Pegz

 

Ok, replaced spark plug last night. Luckily the AutoZone down the street from me had one in stock. $4.49. Checked the gap and got it installed, waited until this morning to fire it up. With the battery still connected to the tender, it barely wanted to engage the starter. Off the tender it clicked a whole bunch but nothing else. Back to bump starting it. Had to do a couple laps around the yard to get the gas fed to the engine, but I finally got it going. Went for a nice 55 mile ride out in the middle of nowhere because it was a nice day. Got home and ripped out that Ballistic battery faster than I've ever taken anything apart in my life. Drove like a madman up to work, threw it in the battery recycle cart like a MLB pitcher, and got the last AGM TX-7 on the shelf. Got home to put it in and realized the terminals were backwards. ****. No big deal, did some wire pushing and contorted them to fit onto the new terminals, plastic back on. Moment of truth. Turn key, hit kill switch 'on', starter button. Almost instant fire. Almost scared me because I was expecting it to turn over a bit before it started up. Took it for a ride through the neighborhood, probably pissed off some soccer moms, and parked it for the night. We'll see how it does tomorrow when I have to leave at 6am to go to work.

 

Nothing wrong with working at WalMart, it's a job. Better than none and can always be a stepping stone into management or another job.

I would have jumped the bike, but that's beside the point, you found and fixed both issues as cheap as possible for doing it right. No extra money or time wasted. You got the plug and the good battery. Those no-names are junk. I went to a Yuasa when the crappy Bikemaster took a squat in the 250. One place where cutting corners can hose you over - batteries.

Have fun with the remaining good riding time - fall foliage rides up and coming.

 

Congratulations on finding the problem!!


I use 'no name' batteries from Western Power Sports. I don't know if they are Yuasa rebranded, but I've not had a problem with them.