Yeah, definitely don't want to have too much oil. The stock filter seemed to have that problem. I'll just follow the instructions since it's a Uni filter and I bought Uni filter oil and cleaner for it. I live next to a dirt road and work on the line between two cities in the middle of nowhere with lots of farm land and field...probably best to oil it.

Yeah, the DJ instructions say to carefully turn the screw until lightly seated, then back out 3 turns.

I noticed that the slide seems to move a little easier after the DJ spring got swapped into it. Had a rough time getting the eclip onto the needle too, almost cut my fingers pressing it on. Any tips there? When referring to the notches, is 1N at the blunt end, or the tapered end? Doesn't really matter since 3N is in the middle, but for future adjustment needs it would be nice to know if it's |12345=====> or <=====12345|

 

Needle notches go from "blunt" side to "tapered" side.

So the notch closest to the top, or "blunt" side is the 1st notch. The 5'th notch is the side closest to the tapered long end.

the jet you're asking about is for the choke circuit if I remember correctly.

 

Gotcha, notches go |12345=====>

Well I've done all I can do tonight. My power drills are all dead, and I can only stand turning the drill bit by hand so much before I just wanna throw it. I've got plenty of pictures, and will have a few more by tomorrow, and maybe even a startup/ride video.

Hmmm it might be the choke circuit. Oh well, just wondering. Not gonna do anything to it.

 

IT LIVES!!!!!! Finally got it all back together last night while fighting off an orb spider. Little guy had been building a web between a light fixture and my handle bars/mirrors the whole time I was doing the exhaust. Almost had his web redone when I starting putting the carb back on. No sir, not tonight. Tonight, Lexi belongs to ME!!

Took a while to start, I'm guessing it's time for a new battery. The current one looks stock, but I have a tender attachment I can hook up to it for now. Only other issue I had was the big lines from the tank. I got them routed wrong, and so they pushed the choke rod back in while it was warming up. Ran without choke for about 3 seconds, then died. Didn't want to restart after that for a while.

Immediately noticed much more low end torque, and midrange pep. Sound was phenomenal. Not hardly loud at all when sitting at idle, and wasn't too bad if I was just cruising at a constant speed. I could blip the throttle and receive a nice BRAAP without accelerating too much, but the power was definitely noticeable.

Next thing I'd like to do is remove all the smog stuff. After that I'll probably upgrade to the DJ144 and remove the lid. I'll try to find the smog removal on another thread.

Just wanted to give a final thank you to all of you that helped me out, especially Klxster and Pwjm that have been helping me from the start. You guys have no idea how much I appreciate it. I've nearly fallen in love with this bike all over again, because it's really not the same anymore.

 

My pleasure LemonRX.. Congrats on performing a successful carb setup.. You should go into the UserCP and create a signature line with your current bike and setup/mods.. See my sig line below..

 

Oh and BTW, when you call DynoJet to order the DJ144 main jet, also order at least 2 more of the tiny washers that go on the needle..

 

Will do, but it will probably be a while. Just out of curiosity, what purpose do the washers serve? If I'm going to be using the 2 washers I already have, plus at least 2 more, wouldn't it be easier just to move the eclip?

 

I think it's just in case you lose a couple during clip changes.

....unless klxster is cooking up some crazy shimming recipe.

 

Muaahahaha... In order to use 1N on the DJ needle, you gotta super-glue two of dem togedda den glu-em on toppa da clip.. So, oh yeah, get another clip also..

The 2 washers + clip provide the necessary thickness in order to stabilize the needle in the white nylon "hat" - check out our threads where we have measured the thickness of the washers, the clip, and the stock needles' "retainer"... they equal out.. If you don't properly use and install the two washers, you suk, your bike will probly suk and you go directly to jail - no passing "GO"....

 

Lemon, you should ride your stage 2 for a good while. You need to "get to know" it well before the change to lidless DJ144/1N.. That way, when you feel 144/1N, you will be able to better assess the change.. I won't taint your experience (and analysis) with details of what to expect.. But you won't ever go back to stage 2...