I'll play with the snorkel tomorrow after the carb aggravates me again.

I've been unable to get the throttle cables loose. I could see that they needed to come off, but wasn't able to pull the cables enough to get the round blocks out of the holders and didn't want to snap a cable on top of everything else. Also tried to undo the screw to remove the whole plate and almost stripped it.

I've got both of the rubber boots off. Had an aggravated moment and decided just to remove it from the engine and the airbox. So with both boots off, throttle plate screw nearly stripped, the carb is left hanging there for the night.

I've seen a little about the smog stuff, and seeing as how I'm not in California I don't see why I need any of it either. Please enlighten me on what all I can get rid of. I noticed a black tube running from the top engine side of the carb to some little doohickey up front by the frame. Also noticed an orange/yellow transparent tube from the bottom right side of the carb running down with all the overflow tubes. Everything else looked pretty necessary.

 

You have to loosen the nuts on the cables to make get em off. You can undo the plate like you tried, or you can just loosen the nuts on the cables with a 10mm wrench.

 

What looks like Philips screws aren't, they're JIS.

 

I'm pretty sure when he said throttle plate, He meant the plate taht holds the throttle cables on, not the actual butterfly plate (which as you point out are JIS screws - and the back sides are punched to prevent unscrewing).

 

Yes, the metal piece that hold the ends of the throttle cables. I haven't gotten to the point where I can mess with the butterfly yet. So the backsides of the screws on the butterfly are punched, or the backside of the screw on what I referred to as the throttle plate?

 

nah, the punched screw is inside the carb bore on the butterfly. You'll likely never need to worry about taking that off.

AFAIK it's just a normal phillips head on the metal plate that holds the throttle cables but they did put locktite on it or something. Leave it until you can find a replacement bolt with a proper bolt head so you don't have to worry about stripping in the future.

For now, just leave that plate, undo the cables by their collars.

 

You were talking about '3 points of adjustability', now you're talking about Performance Tuning - I was mentioned additional points of 'adjustment' in the carb. The 3 you mentioned are the 'big ones' that have the most effect.

As you mentioned, the slide spring is a 'replacement' for drilling the slide, and is supposed to give better throttle response, which is 'tuning' to me. I agree with not ever drilling the slide, some of the DJ kits would only include the drill for drilling the slide, I much prefer the replacement spring method (it's easy to put the original spring back in, for whatever reason, than plugging the hole and drilling a new one that's the original size...)

Again, float level is also part of tuning. Float Height Importance in Carb Tuning | Adventure Rider

I agree that there's not much out there for different needles, but JetsRUs.com does seem to carry a variety of needles with different tapers and diameters etc., if somebody really had a lot of time on their hands and wanted to play with a whole bunch of different needles.

 

As has been stated, there are no Philips screws on the KLX, they are JIS. The toolkit has a JIS driver that works perfectly on all the screws on the bike and the handle doubles as a spark plug tool. Use it with a wrench on it and some downward pressure and any screw will come out without destroying the screw head.

 

Lemon, you don't have the proper main jet for running lidless. You'll have to get a DJ144 main jet if your gonna run lidless. They are $2.00 from DJ or perhaps you can find one at the local motorcycle tuning shops. There is no shortcuts/alternatives - you must have a DJ144..

Your best option right now is to run standard stage 2 but with the DJ132 main jet - it's in the kit.. Note that this will be with the lid but without the snorkel..

You won't get the upper end horsepower of running lidless but you'll like what you do get from stage 2..

 

Running lidless is a radical improvement in airflow. When you combine lidless with a full aftermarket exhaust the engine requires a "Jumbo Jet" to fuel properly. Anything else will have your bike running very lean - too lean..