Installing 13T Sprocket
#22
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The problem is KC's garage has a really smooth, slippery concrete floor and the tire with both of us on the bike (in gear with brakes on) still spins. Now I remember why I had the dealer do mine. I'm going to play with it some more or at least until my blood pressure reaches critical mass and a neck vein bursts!
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#23
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Sounds like someone's back brakes are shot combined with an incorrectly installed washer. The rubber flange on the stock sprocket keeps the washer slightly bent, you will not budge the nut if the washer is curled any anywhere. Flatten that sucker good and it should come off....remember, if you line up the breaker bar with the swing arm...lift it up and to the left like you are roling the bike forward....not the other way
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#25
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ORIGINAL: bryantjt
You have an issue with the washer if its that hard to get off. I found when mine was installed the washer fingers were mushed up into the backside of the nut. They should be flat and in the spline notches then run the nut up to the face and snug it to 92 ft-lbs. 92 ft-lbs should not require a 4 foot cheater on it, which is what I had to use the first 2 times until I noticed the bent fingers. ................
@92 ft-lbs an 18" bar only requires 60 lbs of pull on the end to break it free.
You have an issue with the washer if its that hard to get off. I found when mine was installed the washer fingers were mushed up into the backside of the nut. They should be flat and in the spline notches then run the nut up to the face and snug it to 92 ft-lbs. 92 ft-lbs should not require a 4 foot cheater on it, which is what I had to use the first 2 times until I noticed the bent fingers. ................
@92 ft-lbs an 18" bar only requires 60 lbs of pull on the end to break it free.
Hey KK & Mark:
Brianjit is right on!! The washer has one raised edge.... BUT the entire washer is slightly raised all the way around. It refused to come off even with an impact wrench!!! I thenused a drift pin and flattened the entire surface of the washer!!
After flattening the entire washer with the drift pin we were then able to remove the nut, (counterclockwise), with a standard 1/2" bar with a short cheater length. One of us sat on the bike and pressed the rear brake. We did this in the desert sand... So, Kathy's garage has to have enough friction to get the job done.
Best of luck,
#26
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Thanks for the info but I'm getting mixed messages here - one person says its clockwise and the next says counter clockwise so I think I need to take a vote on which is it? The rest of what you said makes sense about the washer and doing it on a rough surface!
#29
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Here's the key in breaking the nut loose. When I did mine, I had my neighbor sit on the bike. I'd say he weighs in around 200 or so. With his foot on the rear brake, I had a standard length 1/2 inch ratchet on the socket. I tried and tried to twist the nut loose and it wouldn't budge. But then, in a quick jerk I ripped into it in oneinstantmotion and heard the click sound and it broke right loose. If you're trying to loosen it up by slowly applying force, chances are it isn't going to work. Get the ratchet where you want it, make sure the socket is on the nut all the way and then quickly jerk the ratchet up towards the seat. It will pop loose instantly. I weigh 150 and I did it myself however I am pretty strong
. This is how I got mine off.
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#30
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when i put my new 13t on it was also the time i was chaning to a 45t rear, and i had already taken off the chain and rear wheel... what now... no biggie i wrapped the chain around the front sprocket and just lodged the other end in the old sprocket sideways and jammed it against the swing arm and walaa came right off... but like josh said, it doesnt require that much torque to tighten it up... so dont crank on it like ya wanna break it... and its standard threads... righty tighty.