Installed a Kickstarter on my '07 KLX

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  #41  
Old 02-24-2020, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by klx678
My co-rider/friend and I went out for a day when my 650 was not starting well. Had to bump it off every time.
Mine is a BMW 650 single, whole different world! ~
 
  #42  
Old 02-24-2020, 11:33 PM
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Yeah, Japan vs Germany...
 
  #43  
Old 02-25-2020, 06:24 PM
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I can't believe you are right, they both have 100x83 bore/stroke, & actually the KLX has a higher compression. It must be the gear ratios or something, cause it is near impossible, even with help, to bump start that thing. It is FI vs carb, so that's what I'm going with.

From the internetize, the KLX 650 seems really tame, mine is a little more edgy & I don't think the kawa would stand a chance in 1/4 mile. Mine is only 350#, so there is that.
 

Last edited by durielk; 02-25-2020 at 06:27 PM.
  #44  
Old 02-27-2020, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
If your bike has started with the kick starter, then it has to be a matter of finding the correct procedure - which may be (is likely) different on a EFI bike from a carb bike (due to EFI triggering, battery voltage level, ect)

MCM is a procedure that retimes both cams - for significantly more power below 6500 rpm. It can be done on ALL KLX250's...
Could be about the procedure. Clutch sensor? I havent had any luck run-bump starting my dtracker (efi) on couple of times of low battery. My 150cc yamaha mslaz i can just kickbike it to move and lift the clutch a bit and start it super easy in similar situations.
 
  #45  
Old 02-27-2020, 04:26 AM
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I agree 100% it is a matter of kickstart procedure. I have read some go as far to say if you can’t find TDC, it would be a waste of time.

I shall reference TDC to cam openings. I figure 2 high resistance phases in succession, plus a bit more, corresponding to effort to open the exhaust and then inlet valves, ought to get me close to TDC.

I don’t have the delicate feel yet to know compression stroke but definitely easier to feel extra effort needed to compress the valve springs!

As for battery condition, probably more important on an EFI bike than a carb one. Hence, as I have read, kickstart not popular on EFI bikes.


 
  #46  
Old 02-27-2020, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by durielk
I can't believe you are right, they both have 100x83 bore/stroke, & actually the KLX has a higher compression. It must be the gear ratios or something, cause it is near impossible, even with help, to bump start that thing. It is FI vs carb, so that's what I'm going with.

From the internetize, the KLX 650 seems really tame, mine is a little more edgy & I don't think the kawa would stand a chance in 1/4 mile. Mine is only 350#, so there is that.

Interesting considering the performance the KLX650C (not a KLR650) had was and still is better than any of the other Japanese 650 dual sports built. It was chosen in the 95 Cycle World shoot out over the XR650L and DR650. It wasn't a plated near race engine/chassis. Specs show a 13.7 quarter mile. Horsepower claimed at 49, with some jetting and opening up the air box it likely did make a shade over 50 hp, with a pipe a bit more. Mine would top out around 100 mph as geared. There were hop ups that gave it more serious power, like doing a 102mm piston from a Vulcan 1500 or Woosner and a flat slide carb. I did the former, but not the latter. I looked up the F 650 and specs showed 71 hp and a 12.8 quarter, so it is a bit hotter, the weight helping too at 25 lb lighter. Even pumped up the KLX had serious mid range power. Kind of a shame they couldn't keep it going. An acquaintance in Australia built one up to a 700 with full rally equipment for some Aussie races. A serious power house. He wrote about it in the process in the KLX thread over at ADVriders forum and it was featured in Australian Dirt Bike. He sent me a copy.

As far as handling, I chased a few friends around on their supermotos a DRz400, a plated XR650R, and an Aprilia 550. The latter two ran faster, but even with the 21/18 I could hang with them in the cornering. Most friends rode sport bikes and I did okay with them as well, losing out only on the straights.

Just sayin' it was the best from Japan in its day from 93-96 in the U.S. several more years in Australia and maybe some other markets, and would still be pretty good now.. It never sold well because it was about a grand more than the KLR and five hundred more than the XR L.

Bumping off was not a single person deal, had to have two to get rolling fast enough. EFI could be the difference though.
 

Last edited by klx678; 02-27-2020 at 11:50 AM.
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