Installed a Kickstarter on my '07 KLX
#31
I may have already missed it, but why no e-start?
I've never considered the kick start because I nearly always ride with one to three other riders and we can bump start any bike if the battery is dead or other problems. Only time I ride alone would be on decent roads, no rough stuff, places where if something happened I would not be stranded alone. Just sayin' my alternate starting method has never failed... a push and a bump.
I've never considered the kick start because I nearly always ride with one to three other riders and we can bump start any bike if the battery is dead or other problems. Only time I ride alone would be on decent roads, no rough stuff, places where if something happened I would not be stranded alone. Just sayin' my alternate starting method has never failed... a push and a bump.
#32
I would think a FI engine would be harder to start, but I'm not an expert.
To rotate the engine in gear, use 2nd ...or 3rd.
I try to bump start my 650 single sometimes, it usually just slides the rear wheel in 2nd.
To rotate the engine in gear, use 2nd ...or 3rd.
I try to bump start my 650 single sometimes, it usually just slides the rear wheel in 2nd.
#33
If your bike has started with the kick starter, then it has to be a matter of finding the correct procedure - which may be (is likely) different on a EFI bike from a carb bike (due to EFI triggering, battery voltage level, ect)
MCM is a procedure that retimes both cams - for significantly more power below 6500 rpm. It can be done on ALL KLX250's...
MCM is a procedure that retimes both cams - for significantly more power below 6500 rpm. It can be done on ALL KLX250's...
Last edited by Klxster; 02-23-2020 at 07:07 PM.
#34
That's where the friend(s) come in. I can be on the bike and drop my butt on the seat to get it to roll and fire up.
#35
Doesn't matter friends, neighbors, the guy standing there... very hard.
#36
The housing/bearing point for the gear between the starter motor and crank cracked. Hence no electric start. It was still a 331 then. When it would not kick start, I decided to put everything back to OEM (250), including the ECU.
I have read something about altering the cam timing, especially on the inlet side. Something about moving the mounting points of the cam/gear and rotating the cam by one tooth to achieve a 10° difference. Taking the max intake opening from 110° after TDC to 100° after TDC. Is this MCM you were referring to? I will play with this idea once I can reliably start the KLX.
Point taken about technique. I will try to reference the piston position with the valve openings. The difference in effort/feel is much more pronounced.
I have read something about altering the cam timing, especially on the inlet side. Something about moving the mounting points of the cam/gear and rotating the cam by one tooth to achieve a 10° difference. Taking the max intake opening from 110° after TDC to 100° after TDC. Is this MCM you were referring to? I will play with this idea once I can reliably start the KLX.
Point taken about technique. I will try to reference the piston position with the valve openings. The difference in effort/feel is much more pronounced.
#37
My co-rider/friend and I went out for a day when my 650 was not starting well. Had to bump it off every time. Some times I parked in such a fashion where I could be going down hill a bit. Like I say, I'd rock it back against compression to give the engine a bit of spin before it hit compression again.
#38
The housing/bearing point for the gear between the starter motor and crank cracked. Hence no electric start. It was still a 331 then. When it would not kick start, I decided to put everything back to OEM (250), including the ECU.
I have read something about altering the cam timing, especially on the inlet side. Something about moving the mounting points of the cam/gear and rotating the cam by one tooth to achieve a 10° difference. Taking the max intake opening from 110° after TDC to 100° after TDC. Is this MCM you were referring to? I will play with this idea once I can reliably start the KLX.
Point taken about technique. I will try to reference the piston position with the valve openings. The difference in effort/feel is much more pronounced.
I have read something about altering the cam timing, especially on the inlet side. Something about moving the mounting points of the cam/gear and rotating the cam by one tooth to achieve a 10° difference. Taking the max intake opening from 110° after TDC to 100° after TDC. Is this MCM you were referring to? I will play with this idea once I can reliably start the KLX.
Point taken about technique. I will try to reference the piston position with the valve openings. The difference in effort/feel is much more pronounced.
It is linked in my signature to a Google document with the specific instructions with pictures, Klxster has a pdf with a good illustration too. There is a sticky in the KLX250 thread for the MCM, but the pictures are no longer there. It describes what is being done. My document is the hands-on mechanical part gleaned from the thread to make it clear without any discussion in it. Not hard and does add mid range power without killing off the top end.
Last edited by klx678; 02-24-2020 at 03:39 PM.
#39
K l x s t e r !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's with an "s" .. Look between your "A" and your "D" keys, you'll see it !
Oh nevermind.. I give up... You win KLX876..
It's with an "s" .. Look between your "A" and your "D" keys, you'll see it !
Oh nevermind.. I give up... You win KLX876..
Last edited by Klxster; 02-24-2020 at 02:07 AM.