So today i installed the dynojet. I did stage one as i have stock exhaust, didn't order a kdx snorkel so i left stock in. Only upgrade is a uni filter. I went with 116 main and turned the fuel screw out 2 7/8 turns. Anyhow, the bike fired up no problem, could take the choke off after a few seconds. Only rode it 5 miles, but the bike has awesome throttle response, no deceleration poping like stock. Header isn't glowing. Nothing is leaking. How does that set up sound, the bike runs good, but i'm over paranoid. How to you know if it's too rich or lean. I haven't checked mpg.

 

I'm kinda in the same boat as you. I did mine recently and I'm still trying to get a feel for the throttle response. I had to adjust my screw a few times to get it where I want it (or so I think). Meaning, little popping on deceleration. I'm probably 3.5 turns out now. Still too soon to get a good feel on mileage.

At this point its just about riding it and having fun.

 

Actually, anything in the dyno jet kit is going to be richer than stock, so that is good. Also, just turning out the fuel screw helps alot as well.

Honestly I think a lot of people over jet. Sounds like you are right on for a stock bike. With a pipe and opened up airbox you could easily go with a 124 main jet. Thats as big as I would go with a stock bore. Some claim a 128 works, and maybe at sea level, it isn't too bad. Save the big jets for the big bore.

Leaner the bike, the longer it takes to take it off choke, the hotter the bike will run, it will stumble at full throttle and surge at cruising speed. Plus it won't have any soot in the exhaust.

Rich the bike bog under acceleration, and your rear fender will turn black from the soot.

Again, there is quite a bit of wiggle room, a dyno jet kit just kind of gives you the full range available.

 

My DynoJet kit is still sitting on my workbench. I'll probably get to it this weekend. I'm SURE I'm going to have to fun getting it right since mine already starts and idles fine (high altitude... I'm at 4,700 feet). Should be interesting...

 

The bike just feels alot more responsive, takes off like a bat outa hell compared to stock. Revs easily, started this morning without any problems. took the choke off in under 5 seconds and it ran on its own. two minute warm up and i was cruising to work without it falling on its face like it used to do. No surging or boggin when reved, so i'm guessing it's good to go. I'm hoping the mpg is alteast 50 and i'll be happy

 

I plan to do my Dynojet kit in the next few days too. I have a TwinAir filter to put in at the same time. Do people leave the entire airbox lid off or just remove the snorkel? It looks like I may have to destroy the snorkel to get it out.

The pipe is still stock; I was going to put a 2" power tip on it but I don't know if I'll get to it.

Also... how hard is it to get the carb out? I assume you have to do that to drill out the cap over the AF screw? And will one of the FCR A/F adjustment screws fit?

Thanks!

Rob

 

With my setup at approximately 2800' ASL I am getting 64mpg. This was measured with the stock speedo and stock tires so there is probably some sort of error built in. Dirt road riding with plenty of stops/starts, speed runs and braaaaaps.

I have DJ124 main, 35 pilot, DJ needle (middle position) KDX snorkle, and BIG Gun (I call it HEAT Gun after melting my turn signal) full exhaust.

 

On air box, it is a mix. I've had the lid off, and tried with the lid on and snorkel out but that didn't work for my jetting setup. You should NOT need to destroy the snorkel to get it out. It should be pliable enough to get it moving, then pull it out. After jetting, you may find that the bike runs better with snorkel in, out, or lid off. Play around with it a little...it's easy.

If you're keeping the stock pipe unmodified, I'm guessing you'll want to stay towards the leaner side of dyno jetting. I don't know about the FCR A/F adjustment screw. I replaced my A/F with a kouba T-handle screw.

And I'll post this one more time. Fairly good step-by-step instructions for carb removal: Kawasaki KLX 250 slip on - HMF Engineering Forums

 

Just wanted to share my experience.

I just recently installed the Dynojet Stage 2, Kouba screw 3 turns out as dynojet instructs for stage 2, drilled the slider hole on the diaphram as seen in other posts, removed airbox lid completely (I have the KDX snorkel to install if needed), added two brothers exhuast with P1X tip to quiet the sound a little (hopefully under CA law of 96dbl). It is a completely different bike. Throttle response is way up, noticable gain in power and it just sounds bad *** now. Starts great, idles great!

I was very pleased as I had just bought the bike in December and it idled awful, it would surge, sputter and die when at idle even once warmed up and then idle really fast i.e. 3000 rpm when engine was hot from riding. I was really not happy with the bike when I discovered this, but after doing the above mods and cleaning the carb, I am really liking the bike.

-bh

 

Hi all, long time lurker first time poster.

Ever since I brought my stock 2009 bike, it has always pinged when the throttle was fully opened even when running 98 RON fuel.

Here's what I've done to cure it + some other mods -
* Keihin 138 main jet. I didn't see the point of buying the Dynojet kit that had 6 jets & no pilot.
* Keihin 40 pilot
* Non ADR slide. No extra holes; used in Aus & NZ bikes
* N1TC needle set to #1. I initially set it to #3 but the engine would surge under part throttle and the exhaust tip & plug were very black so I leaned out & now it's fine.
* No airbox snorkle
* TBR M-7 slip on aluminium exhaust & P1X power tip.

Sounds great, doesn't ping under full throttle and bang & cackle under closed throttle.