initial valve adjust?
#11
08-02-2006, 09:05 PM
RE: initial valve adjust?
A few of us have installed the IMS 3.2 gallon aftermarket gas tank, but it won't fit unless you remove the stock radiator fan and reroute some of the wiring. The smaller fans are replacement alternatives to the stock radiator fan. I ran with two on the right radiator for about 5 months. Recently I added two more to the left radiator for additional cooling in the hot summer heat. Generally they never even turn on unless you are really working the engine hard and also moving very very slowly - i.e., working your way for extended periods through sand, mud, woods in low gear and high RPM and engine load.
#14
08-03-2006, 01:53 AM
RE: initial valve adjust?
Hey djen223, the torques on the camshaft cap bolts are 12 Nm. Note that they are numbered 1 through 8. You should torque them down in numeric order, 1 first, 8 last. Also note that bolts #1 and #6 are longer than all the rest so be sure and put them back into the correct locations.
The three valve cap cover bolts should be torqued to 7.8 Nm. Also, put a small dab of silicone sealant at the half-moon knockouts to help hold the gasket in place there.
If you don't already have one on order, I highly recommend getting the service manual. There are all kinds of these gems in there and I'd consider it essential for this level of work. The service manual is two components - the base manual for the KLX250R and the supplement for the "D-TRACKER" which has updated schematics and a few other odds and ends that are different on the newer models.
The three valve cap cover bolts should be torqued to 7.8 Nm. Also, put a small dab of silicone sealant at the half-moon knockouts to help hold the gasket in place there.
If you don't already have one on order, I highly recommend getting the service manual. There are all kinds of these gems in there and I'd consider it essential for this level of work. The service manual is two components - the base manual for the KLX250R and the supplement for the "D-TRACKER" which has updated schematics and a few other odds and ends that are different on the newer models.
#16
08-03-2006, 02:21 AM
RE: initial valve adjust?
You got that right - consider yourself fortunate if you have a quality dealer. From my experience, so many to shoddy work, don't even do the work they claim they do in many cases, and rip you off if given half a chance. Not all are bad though, of course, but I view them all with a wary eye until experience shows otherwise - guilty until proven innocent. 
#17
08-03-2006, 05:00 PM
RE: initial valve adjust?
ORIGINAL: Nobrakes
Hey djen223, the torques on the camshaft cap bolts are 12 Nm. Note that they are numbered 1 through 8. You should torque them down in numeric order, 1 first, 8 last. Also note that bolts #1 and #6 are longer than all the rest so be sure and put them back into the correct locations.
The three valve cap cover bolts should be torqued to 7.8 Nm. Also, put a small dab of silicone sealant at the half-moon knockouts to help hold the gasket in place there.
If you don't already have one on order, I highly recommend getting the service manual. There are all kinds of these gems in there and I'd consider it essential for this level of work. The service manual is two components - the base manual for the KLX250R and the supplement for the "D-TRACKER" which has updated schematics and a few other odds and ends that are different on the newer models.
Hey djen223, the torques on the camshaft cap bolts are 12 Nm. Note that they are numbered 1 through 8. You should torque them down in numeric order, 1 first, 8 last. Also note that bolts #1 and #6 are longer than all the rest so be sure and put them back into the correct locations.
The three valve cap cover bolts should be torqued to 7.8 Nm. Also, put a small dab of silicone sealant at the half-moon knockouts to help hold the gasket in place there.
If you don't already have one on order, I highly recommend getting the service manual. There are all kinds of these gems in there and I'd consider it essential for this level of work. The service manual is two components - the base manual for the KLX250R and the supplement for the "D-TRACKER" which has updated schematics and a few other odds and ends that are different on the newer models.
Could you possibly scan and post the schematic on here? I am looking at possibly doing it this weekend and checking to see if they need to be adjusted since it seem to be making a funny ticking noise now that I hit 3k.
Thanks
#18
08-10-2006, 07:49 PM
RE: initial valve adjust?
im getting ready to put her back together and wondering if you guys use a dot of locktite on the cambolts? it felt like it had it on when I broke them loose?
any insight?
thanks
Dave
any insight?
thanks
Dave
#19
08-10-2006, 11:41 PM
RE: initial valve adjust?
I didn't. The manual doesn't call for it, unless I missed it. They are pretty tight though - just be sure and torque them the required amount and they should be fine. You want some tight ones - the cylinder head bolts, now those suckers are on there tight. Those are the four allen head bolts below the cam bracket. I had to remove those when I did my 300cc install. I thought for sure they must have had lock tight on them, but they did not. In fact, quite the opposite - they had molybdenum grease on the seating surfaces to facilitate the heavy torquing.
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