The part will be a square brass unit in a round hole. The hole may or not have started round, but by the time you're done spinning the square brass out, it will be.

 

Yes, many times. I'ved used super strength araldite, that holds. I wouldn't be torquing it up to 200Nm though. It's only there to hold a plastic shroud on and over-tightening probably caused the original problem anyway.

 

One day I'm going to be facing the same problem. I had one bolt strip the insert when I did my install. I don't think I even torqued it that much, they're just not secured in there very well.

 

Back in '09 when I bought my '06 KLX250S it already had the Acerbis 3.7 tank on it. I smelled gas frequently in the shop when the bike was parked. One of the inside 6x100 bolt holes was weeping fuel. I checked with Justgastanks for recommendations and got...buy new tank...check out plastic welding...or try an epoxy compatible with plastic. A particular brand was recommended, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was. It was also fuel resistant. I want to say it was also recommended for plastic automotive fuel tanks...there aren't many metal auto tanks anymore.

I used a slightly longer 6X100 bolt with a jam nut tightened to the brass with a lock washer. I warmed the tank at the spot with a heat gun...tank empty and dry, of course. I worked the bolt back and forth many times until I could pull it out. There's a pretty large amount of the tank plastic molded around a square bar of brass that makes up the threaded hole. The plastic is not thin there. I cleaned and dried the socket hole with brake cleaner and then the heat gun. I mixed the epoxy and squeezed it into the hole. I inserted the brass socket and wiped off the excess. I left it for days rather than the relatively short recommended time.

Upon testing the integrity of the repair, it was stout and passed the test of sitting with fuel up to the socket in a hot shop for several days. The socket is apparently a tiny bit off from the exact axis of the original bolt hole, as I have to push up and down on the tank gently to get the bolt hole to line up...a very tiny inconvenience. For seven years of hard use and lots of miles it's never been a problem again.

 

I'd be tempted to try 3m 5200. If that won't work nothing will.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1...-tech-data.pdf

Not huge strength though based a tech sheet.... 48psi for 1" square. SO the goal would be to increase surface area.

How much spaced between tank and frame there?

I could machine a threaded boss that slips into the old hole and has a larger thin shoulder (maybe 1.5 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick?) that would increase gluing surface area. It would be ugly but probably work.

 

Hey Thanks Sic Semper. I'm not worried at all about fixing it, its getting it out. I haven't had time to go out and look at it yet since posting this thread. I'm sure it will pry out easy enough after I spin the bolt with insert on the drill, then should pop out. I think I'm good. Thanks everyone.