Well, not exactly back to stock if you read my signature. The stock main is a #118, which was a little too anemic when I first tried my '09 at road speeds. #125 was my first step up for the main jet before I went #128, before I just now went back to #125. Odds are I will always be experimenting. Note that it is also the heat of summer (in KS) and that will affect optimum jetting, too.

Here is the address to 12 O'clock Labs for the speedo calibrator: 12oclock Labs. I haven't been disappointed with it, yet!

Hope this is helpful.

 

I just noticed that it is only for digital speedometers. I have a 2006 and my speedometer is analog, which is broken mind you. So I need a replacement. That looks like it just plugs into the 09's digital unit.

 

Sorry, forgot about the analog vs digital thing...

 

I don't know if this will help as it applies to the Aus spec '09, and with the different numbers for Dyno jet it jets even more confusing.

Anyway I am halfway through the following mods;
- No air box lid and Hiflow filter.
- Full Barrett's exhaust and header.
- Kawi original 300cc kit.

I went to dealer to order jets and needle after much research and he actually had a fax sent to dealer mechanics from Kawi Aust outlining recommendations jetting for the 300cc kits with de-restricted airflow. #140 main, #38 pilot plus needle (N1TC) and slide from the klx300, and fuel screw 2.5 turns out.

Now I would go more on what people with experience have down on this site but I figure Kawi Aust are just basically giving you the standard they used for the klx300 and I will order those jets and go from there. I also have 250cc no airbox lid and hiflow filter with stardard exhaust since new, with #35 (stock) pilot and #138 main (#132 stock) and have been really happy with it to date.

 

No problem with the 40 here. Bike runs great and idles great. Starts pretty easy too. I'm at sea level.

 

Yeah I have the 40 too. I only put it in because it was recommended by the admin at the forum on the HMF site.

The way I have my carb set up in my autosig below, it ran so perfectly right off the bat that it even surprised me. It starts instantaneously hot or cold and it can be ridden off immediately with no hiccups whatsoever. It idles rock solid at 1300 rpm regardless of the weather. I am at sea level.

It's strange that the 40 works so well for some of us like myself and armycopter but not so good for others. YMMV.

 

Can you link me to somewhere to purchase the 40? Also, I was taking a look at your sig and noticed that you have a 13 T front sprocket. Do you do more on or off road riding? I'm not sure which is better for what...like is the 14 T better for on road since its higher gearing? 13 T better out of the hole? I have the stock gearing and sprockets...I plan on getting the 351 kit here soon. If you have any suggestions for the sprocket, then please let me know. Thanks for your help!

 

The 40 jet is a Kawasaki part. I got mine from Ronayers.com Ron Ayers Motorsports

Unfortunately I do more on road than off road.

I think the 13 tooth sprocket is a must do mod if you are still at 250cc.

 

Just wondering which specific 13 tooth sprocket you have? I have a 14 right now I believe. What size do you recommend for the back? Am I correct that the less teeth on the front sprocket the faster the bike is out of the hole and the more teeth that the front sprocket has the faster top end it has(theoretically) ?

 

It's JT sprocket JTF309.13. I got it from Dennis Kirk and their part # is 80-963-13. When I got it back in 2006, there were no 13 tooth sprocket directly listed for the '06 KLX. A guy named BMWHD who along with Deej were the founding members of the KLX250S board here confirmed that the one made for the Honda XL650 would fit our bike perfectly, so that is what many of us oredered. True to his words, the sprocket fit perfectly as if it was made for our bike. The front is a biotch to take off and I had to use a impact gun to take it off, unless you have a friend who is at least 200 lbs that can sit on the bike with his foot on the brake.

More teeth on the rear has the same effect as less teeth on the front. It will give you better acceleration at the expense of the engine rpms being higher at the same speed. If you go more teeth on the back, you will have to get a new chain; if you go one tooth down in the front, you can keep your current chain.