Well its time for my valve check and since I'll have stuff apart and tools strewn about I figure I'll finally de smog my junk. After I complete this will I have to adjust idle mixture or jetting? Best way to block off fresh air valve thingy on the head? And lastly anything else worth removing besides charcoal canister and the liquid/vapor valve and all associated hoses?

Thanks!

 

Don't do it! Tampering with the emissions system is a federal offense and the EPA cops will be on your ****!!!

Why do you hate clean air?

I suppose if you must....

Bill Blue makes a nifty little block off plate.
Arctra has a recent thread where he tapped the existing plate and put a screw it it. Nice work! See if you can find his thread.
Before getting Bill Blue's plate (that came with the 351 kit), I simply kept a part of the stock hose, stuck a bolt in it, and used clamps to hold the bolt in place as a plug. There are photos in my 351 Build thread linked in my sig line (see posts 26 & 44).
You shouldn't need to adjust idle or jetting for this job. Be sure to use good vinyl caps on the carb vents you'll be exposing with the deleted hoses.

 

This link helped me.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...a-model-23830/

I was a little confused since my IMS tank didn't have the same vent lines the stock tank has. I also had a problem finding a large enough vinyl cap to fit the airbox properly and had to buy some extra tubing. I did have to adjust my idle a little bit afterwards.

 

On my airbox (this was the crankcase vent relocate mod, one of the few mods I wish I'd never done; the crankcase vents well enough as it is), I used a cap that fit inside the hole. It wasn't made to fit inside (of course not, it's a cap), but if fit just fine and I squirted a little epoxy around it to seal it in place. However, I don't like this solution. If it ever gave way or developed a crack, it would be very difficult to identify and its not in an easy place to inspect.

 

If the reed valve in the air injection on the exhaust is working correctly then you should be able to use a simple rubber cap-I did this on my SV and it has the same cap for over 45K miles. The rest of the crap is just removing all of the evap system and capping off the nipples on the carb and tank. Removing the evap system will not have any effect on the fuel mixture.

 

It gets quite hot. Will a rubber cap melt?

 

I blocked mine like IDRIDR did, just stuck a bolt in the hose (with some RTV on it) with a hose clamp, then zip-tied it to the frame.
At 30,000 miles I think my reed valve might have gone south...as I now have a good oil leak from around the plate.
I need to order a 351, or send BB $8 for a block off plate.

 

Thanks guys. I'll dig into it and get some junk off my bike. I think I'll make shift a block off plate or something I can sandwich in between the reed valve and cover. Later on I plan on buying a 492 dollar block off plate that comes with a free 331BB but until then I'll just rig it up.

Also IDRIDR, I know your just busting my ***** a bit but I'm all for clean air. I just hate the useless mess of crap under the tank. My bike is my daily driver and I figure it could never be as dirty as my 15 mpg Jeep or my 66 GT with a 289 and 4 barrel.

Lastly, I remember when I did my FMF Q4 last year someone said omitting this should clean up the exhaust popping on decel. I've got my jetting sorted out nicely and zero exhaust leaks for sure so if this helps that would be sweet.

 

Arctra recently did a cheap and easy smog delete.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...k-plate-42192/

 

If the reed plate is sealing properly, then there won't be any flow with the cap in place so the nipple won't get any hotter than the cylinder head. Should be fine.