Hey Guys,

I recently have finished every air, carb, and exhaust mod I could do. I did, #40 Pilot, #128 Main, NTC needle 2nd slot from top with spacer under E-clip, and drilled the vent holl, Drill Stock pipe, no smog, 13t front sprocket. Everything is what I thought it would be.I road to work today and the bikedied twice on me. I would come to a stop and the RPM's would dip and them normaly rise. Twice it died.

What is the normal setting for the RPM's. I am running around 1500-1800 RPM.


Thanks,

Jethro

 

You didn't mention whether you have removed the stock snorkel yet. Your jetting won't work very well with the stock snorkel installed. A rich mixture will cause what you are speaking of, so, if you haven't pulled the snorkel yet, try that first.

You also didn't mention where you have the fuel screw set at. If you haven't done so already, pull the plug and set the screw to about 2.0 turns CCW from fully closed.See whatpulling the snorkel does first though.

 

I agree with Tremor. The fuel screw setting is important for proper idle. Also, make sure you haven't picked up a vaccum leak between the carb and boot. Check that by spraying carb cleaner around the sealing joint. If the idle changes, you've found your problem.

Bill Dragoo
Norman, Oklahoma

 

I guess I should have mentioned those things. I did put on a KDX200 Snorkel and turned the fuel screw out 2.5 turns.

I will check for the leak.

Thanks,

Jethro

 

My bike has done this from day one. Now matter what mods I have done from time to time when I pull in the clutch coasting to a corner the RPM'S drop and the bike dies it did it twice to me today.I have always had to keep the idle up at about 1800-2000 rpm to keep it from doing it as much. Me and 2 of my buddies bought the same bikes at the same time and they all start and idle a little different. From day one when my bike sits for a bit when it is hot I have to give it a little gas or it will not start. M y dealer just adjusted the valves and I was hoping it would help but it didn't

Jeff

 

Yours almost sounds likea passage is plugged somewhere...assuming that you have already set the fuel screw properly. It might be worth getting busy with a piece of guitar string or strand of old brake cable to make sure all of the idle circuit is open. Next thing I would check is float height and float's needle-n-seat valve.

I hesitate to say check forair leaks because thatnormally causes a high idle.

 

+1^ then it may settle after a sec or two.

 

My bike just turned 500 miles this morning and I have done the KDX200 Snorkel, Uni Air Filter and drilled 1/2" hole in the 1st baffle plate and installed the Kouba T-handle air-screw.
I have had to lower my idle several times as the bike breaks-in to keep it in the 1,200-1,300 RPM area but I have not had it stall on me yet.

I would double check that idle air screw setting, don’t just twist it out 2.5 turns and call it good.
It sounds like the idle circuit may be a bit on the lean side.

I started at 2 turns out and twisted mine in slowly until the idle made a sudden drop then reversed direction until the idle speed dropped again and then set it precisely in the middle this works well for me (about 1.5 turns out).I have also turned the air screw in until the rpm drop and then just twist it out 1/8 to 1/4 turn on other bikes with good results.

 

That's what it said also on the instruction that Norm Kouba gave me with my FS-3 fuel screw.
However when I tried this technique, the idle made a sudden drop screwing in but the idle never dropped going out. [&:]

So I just left it at 2 turns out. Do you think that's a good setting? And why didn't my idle drop with the screw going out?

I have 125 main, 40 pilot, N1TC needle with clip on 2nd notch w/ collar,7/64" slide, KDX snorkel w/ stock filter, 1/2" hole first baffle, smogremoved, & 13-tooth CS sprocket.
The bike runs really strong with much improved & smoothacceleration at all RPMs. It still won't wheelie though. [:@]

 

In stock form, these bikes are tough to get the front end up on, but it can be done with technique. Find yourself a nice uphill slope. Start in first gear at a realatively low rpm, say around 5000 or so. You'll have to feel this out to find the best point to start. A little bump will help, but you can also compress the forks a bit by rolling off the throttle, then quickly back on while leaning back and punching it. It should pop up pretty nicely. The trick is getting it on up to the balance point without chickening out or worse yet, doing a back flip! You have to find that pucker point and kind'a hold it there. If you can learn to use the brake as a panic button you'll live longer...as will your rear fender and related plastic...and butt. Strap a pillow there to save the tail bone...just kidding, but it sounds like it might help.

"Practice, Grasshopper..."

Bill Dragoo
Norman, Oklahoma