I need the .pdf 2009 service manual
#11
Here's a couple of examples. I was checking out how to remove the carb for re-jetting and it doesn't instructions for that and just now I realized that I don't have big enough metric sockets for things like the wheels and the CS sprocket. It gives me the torque values, but not the socket sizes!
#12
The service manual is not a "how to book" It is for those who have some skills in this area. If you need a "how to" buy a aftermarket manual. I think if you do, you'll appreciate the service manual. (nothing quite like technical drawings)
#13
I love my bike, but paying $70 for a manual that doesn't tell me how to remove the carb or what size socket I need to pull the rear axle is useless to me. The drawings are nice though especially when getting into tubing and wire routing, but otherwise, pretty much useless for the amount of money I paid for it.
At the time I bought the manual, the above link didn't work and I thought why not just buy the dang thing? I was expecting something like a Clymers manual for cars and was disappointed when I got it.
#15
Actually, the service manual is designed for the Kawasaki service technicians, not the ower to wrench on the bike. I worked for Chrysler a long while back and all the manuals were written specifically for "US" the mechanics. When they call out special tools for doing specific jobs that no mechanic will buy,,, the tools are in the parts room for you to sign out and use. Al those specialty tools are not owned by an individual mechanic, they are supplied by kawasaki.
end of rant........
end of rant........
Last edited by GaryC; 06-25-2011 at 11:13 PM. Reason: I cant spell well!!!!!!!!!!! and i have fat little fingers!!
#16
I don't think that even the Clymer/Haynes/etc manuals, which are written for owners, tell you to "take a 14 mm socket to remove nut x, turning it counterclockwise", they are likely, however, to mention when a fastener is left-hand thread and needs to be turned clockwise to remove.
#18
If you turn wrenches for a living i hardly think that you can not figure out what size the axle nuts are.
If you need to cheat, use a left handed metric adjustable wrench, and torque it to 1/2 thumb pound of pressure, then remove the wrench and measure the gap.
Or you could use a dial vernier, metric of course.
If you need to cheat, use a left handed metric adjustable wrench, and torque it to 1/2 thumb pound of pressure, then remove the wrench and measure the gap.
Or you could use a dial vernier, metric of course.
#19
If you turn wrenches for a living i hardly think that you can not figure out what size the axle nuts are.
If you need to cheat, use a left handed metric adjustable wrench, and torque it to 1/2 thumb pound of pressure, then remove the wrench and measure the gap.
Or you could use a dial vernier, metric of course.
If you need to cheat, use a left handed metric adjustable wrench, and torque it to 1/2 thumb pound of pressure, then remove the wrench and measure the gap.
Or you could use a dial vernier, metric of course.
Now, can I get some help on what size sockets I need here, or do I start a new thread?
Last edited by Biff-a-nator; 06-25-2011 at 10:49 PM.
#20
Front is 10mm pinch bolts, 17mm axle and 19 mm for the axle nut.
Rear is 12mm open end wrench for the chain tensioner, 22 mm axle and 27mm axle nut.
not getting agressive, just didn't understand until you stated the bike is not with you.
Now it makes sence though.
Rear is 12mm open end wrench for the chain tensioner, 22 mm axle and 27mm axle nut.
not getting agressive, just didn't understand until you stated the bike is not with you.
Now it makes sence though.