I got some new tires! Shinko 705
#11
I have always set the tire pressures by the book that comes with the vehicle, usually the tire pressure on the tire is the maximum cold pressure. Just say'in.
The only place I go maximum rating is on the trailer, always.
The only place I go maximum rating is on the trailer, always.
#12
I should have qualified that my customers at the bike shop
ride 2-wheelers with pasta powered internal combustion engines
I usually keep around 125-psi in 21mm wide road tires
A good road tire is about $50, better ones up to $100 nowadays
It makes those Shinko MC tires seem like even better value
I'm getting a set of 244s soon, they are about $80 for a set
ride 2-wheelers with pasta powered internal combustion engines
I usually keep around 125-psi in 21mm wide road tires
A good road tire is about $50, better ones up to $100 nowadays
It makes those Shinko MC tires seem like even better value
I'm getting a set of 244s soon, they are about $80 for a set
#13
this! ^^
#14
I always run my tire pressure based on the vehicle recommendation as well.
It's good to hear all the positive feedback on the shinkos. I will post a review after I get some miles on them. It's still dipping into the 30s here at night (I drive home at 6am) and they haven't begun to sweep the gravel of the roads, so it might be a couple weeks until I get some good riding in.
Last edited by pghxd9; 04-01-2014 at 06:43 AM.
#16
Also when I look at pics of the bigger dual sports, they have similar type tires on their bikes....I guess more road miles and less if any mud.
#17
I've run these tires for years on my DR650 and now on my V-Strom. Love 'em, especially for the money. I get around 5500-6000 on a rear tire on my DR650, and I just got about 4000-4500 out of the first rear on my V-Strom (heavier bike, so it makes sense).
They're fine in ordinary off-road... gravel, packed dirt, that sort of thing. However... note that they are downright dangerous in mud! I hit a very LIGHTLY muddy spot on a trail early last year on my DR650 and the bike basically veered right despite my best efforts otherwise and ran between two trees (the handguards stopped it). Thankfully no real damage, but still.
On a light bike like the KLX, those things will last a LONG time!
Rob
They're fine in ordinary off-road... gravel, packed dirt, that sort of thing. However... note that they are downright dangerous in mud! I hit a very LIGHTLY muddy spot on a trail early last year on my DR650 and the bike basically veered right despite my best efforts otherwise and ran between two trees (the handguards stopped it). Thankfully no real damage, but still.
On a light bike like the KLX, those things will last a LONG time!
Rob
#18
Hi!
I have the same bike but Im a complete noob when it comes to changing tires.
I want these exact ones but am having trouble figuring out which sizes I should get, Can you point me towards where you got yours and what size you got them in?
Please hurry, my D605s are looking pretty worn after 3.5k miles... :P
I have the same bike but Im a complete noob when it comes to changing tires.
I want these exact ones but am having trouble figuring out which sizes I should get, Can you point me towards where you got yours and what size you got them in?
Please hurry, my D605s are looking pretty worn after 3.5k miles... :P
#19
Great long lasting tires!
90/90 21 and 120/80 18 is what I ran for at least 3500 miles during and after a road trip(hardly worn at all), even on some gnarly off-road, my advise for mud...avoid it or run through the lowest spot straight as can be...about to put them back on as off-road season gives way to the hunters, and my knobbies are totally shot.
It also coincides with a road trip to the Jersey shore.
If you are changing your own tires, watch some YouTube vids, get 3 tire irons and a Bead Buddy and a valve snake, and a spare set of tubes...best advise is to semi-inflate the tube before installing it (enough so it holds it's shape but folds over your finger a bit) then seat the 2nd bead, the semi-infalted tube will stay out of the way. And if it's really hard to get the last 1/2 to 1/4 of the bead on, something isn't in the right position. If the bead is on the rim opposite of your work it'll be hard, but if it's in the rim it's easy.
90/90 21 and 120/80 18 is what I ran for at least 3500 miles during and after a road trip(hardly worn at all), even on some gnarly off-road, my advise for mud...avoid it or run through the lowest spot straight as can be...about to put them back on as off-road season gives way to the hunters, and my knobbies are totally shot.
It also coincides with a road trip to the Jersey shore.
If you are changing your own tires, watch some YouTube vids, get 3 tire irons and a Bead Buddy and a valve snake, and a spare set of tubes...best advise is to semi-inflate the tube before installing it (enough so it holds it's shape but folds over your finger a bit) then seat the 2nd bead, the semi-infalted tube will stay out of the way. And if it's really hard to get the last 1/2 to 1/4 of the bead on, something isn't in the right position. If the bead is on the rim opposite of your work it'll be hard, but if it's in the rim it's easy.
#20
Reviving this old thread cause I bought these tires and said the EXACT same thing to the local shop that mounted them. "Hey is that front tire mounted backwards??" Apparently, according to the sidewall and the salesman at Shinko Direct, thats how they are to be mounted. I also ran the 90/90 21 and 120/80 18 sizes.
My bike is only a few months old, now approximately 1775 miles, and i took the Dunlop 605s off cause I wanted a more road worthy tire. I held onto the knobbies and will probably offer them for sale here in the near future.
I'm noticing more vibration than I was prior to the tire swap. Nothing looks wrong. It feels like a tire is rubbing but they clear just fine and I trust that the local shop did their work correctly, they feel balanced, not lob-sided. For those of you that have used this tire, Is there a break in period I should give the tires to smooth out a bit? Did you put tubes in the shinko's? When they pulled the dunlops, they asked, I told them to use the existing tubes as "added insurance". The front tire actually says tubeless, the rear says tubed.
Thanks!
My bike is only a few months old, now approximately 1775 miles, and i took the Dunlop 605s off cause I wanted a more road worthy tire. I held onto the knobbies and will probably offer them for sale here in the near future.
I'm noticing more vibration than I was prior to the tire swap. Nothing looks wrong. It feels like a tire is rubbing but they clear just fine and I trust that the local shop did their work correctly, they feel balanced, not lob-sided. For those of you that have used this tire, Is there a break in period I should give the tires to smooth out a bit? Did you put tubes in the shinko's? When they pulled the dunlops, they asked, I told them to use the existing tubes as "added insurance". The front tire actually says tubeless, the rear says tubed.
Thanks!
Last edited by mightythree; 08-19-2015 at 04:35 PM.