Maybe it just wasn't seated quite right... I've found you have to be real quick when you have the diaphragm out - get it back in there before it expands.
If it does expand and won't seat right, I heard you can put it in the feezer to shrink it back down some...

I think the manual says to soak the diaphragm in hot water when it comes out... I don't know how that would alleviate the issue, and I don't like the idea of putting a wet slide back into the carb.

 

My first street bike was an '81 Kawasaki CSR305, that had dual carbs with diaphragms. They had tendancy to develop pinholes in them (found out on my dad's previous year CSR305). What we did, since they cost at least $40 even back then, each (a pair of them costing almost 1/10 of the new motorcycle purchase price!), was use "Shoe Goo", which is something like a heavy duty rubber cement, used for repairing shoes, and lay down a thin layer over the holes and a wide area around them. Let it dry properly, lasted the 16 or so years that I owned that bike.

We even used that stuff to repair a tubless Honda Odyssey 250 "balloon" tire. We used wide washers and some bolts to hold together a 6" tear, in the inner sidewall, then lathered on the Shoe Goo. Lasted for years.

It may not be the best solution, but, if money is tight, it's something to think about.

 

The edge must of been leaking and you could not see it then when you put it back it was seated properly You should be good to go now....
Talking about carb slides I had a set if 38mm Mikuni Flat Slides with accel pumps great carbs but when they first came out with them they had plastic slides and under big stress such as [sm=nxsmile.gif] they would crack[:@] But Mikuni was sued I beleave by someone because they would give you 4 new metal slides but someone installed them and the throttle stuck well you no what happened then So anyway Mikuni decided to pay to have your carbs fixed for you and you could not even buy the slides they had to install them. I had 3 cracked in mine and for a $50 fee they replaced them I guess the $50 was for S&H
Just a little carb story For all

 

BTW, a little grease along the top groove of the carb does wonders to get the diaphram fully seated. Mine suddenly grew and while I was at the bike shop pricing a new one (over $100) one of the guys mentioned that contact with gasoline ,like when the bike ends up completely upside-down after a crash, can cause it permanently expand. It worked out for me, is much cheaper than a new diaphram and doesnt seem to hurt the carb

 

Had the same problem with a atc it was the spring wasn't set around the post on the carb cap and was stuck in the slots,dont know why they make the post slotted and not solid.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1719/39D68554664F4F76A33C52F81F4A6AED.jpg[/IMG]

 

Cant see it from the picture, just look under cap when setting it back on.When its back together you can you can usally flick the throttle and hear if the spring is seated right.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1719/D87456AC1DB142CB81ADCC138AD419A4.jpg[/IMG]

 

A quick follow up to my carb woes. The rain let up enough for me to ride the bike about 40 miles yesterday. No problems at all with the carb. Pulls strong and sounds a lot more like a motorcycle with the baffle drilled out. It's still quite enough that I can start it at 6:00AM to goto work and not bother the neighbors. At idle it sounds stock still. That's good for me.

If any of you guys have problems with the diaphragm install, I hope that it doesn't work right there in the garage. Like I said, I got three or four miles down the road before it failed on me.

I need to do some plug chops and confirm my seat of the pants feel on the jetting. But I think it's real close. No dead spots or flat spots.

Thanks for all the input and tips everyone!

Willum
TC