I'll be the first to admit it would make sense, but it won't happen.

It would add more money in an already price sensitive area. You think the KLR650 and KLX250 sell best because they're the best bikes out there? I have a higher performance bike from 1995 that had inverted forks, more horsepower, better looks and better all around performance but it failed to sell well due to being about a grand more than the less powerful more pedestrian KLR and about $600 more than an 80s styled less powerful XR650L. I'm betting the KLX250 outsells the more expensive Yamaha by a fair number and that's because of the price. If the Yamaha was cheaper it'd be the top seller.

So adding any additional cost to the production process is avoided, especially in an area where few will ever make changes. You'd be amazed how many people will complain about how the handlebars or levers feel, yet fail to simply loosen the bolts and move them. I did a lot of that for people when I sold bikes. On some I used to move them as they hit the floor. The Vulcan 800 was one. I used to move the shifters up on the Rebels too, no way any normal person could get their toe comfortably under the stock set up. No way most people would ever switch peg position when adjustable.

 

I'm 6'3 and as I've mentioned before find the cramped feel of the klx the only drawback to a bike I love, and the only reason I know it's not the perfect bike for me long-term. Apart from the standard mods to open her up i am trying to concentrate on the ergo's, and these are my thoughts;

- Higher bend of bars and risers (first mod and world of difference sitting and standing)
- 1 inch raising link, ordered and awaiting delivery (Will increase clearance and stiffen suspension but will not effect leg room when riding)
- Larger diameter rear tyre (Same effect as raising link)
- Slide forks in triples to help balance the two above changes.
- Move back/ lower foot pegs. (This would make a big improvement to the feel, however I already have destroyed the standard pegs offroad so would not want them lower)
- Increase seat height.( Would make the biggest difference but for the '09 I don't know of any straight swap option yet.)
- Thinner sole on riding boots (Sounds silly but made a world of difference for me from my heavy soled original boots)

In garage if I put a 2 inch block under the rear tyre this bike feels so much better for me to sit on. Remove it and I have that flat footed feel to the bike. Now while this is obviously while the bike is stationary it's about where I want to get it. Also this does not take into account the effect on steering/ stability associated with altering and thats something I will have to see.

So bars and seat height would have to be the best option for tall riders with little negative results.

For ground clearance tyre diameter, raising links and moving up the forks would make the most sense.

 

Nope, they don't. I asked..... Sargent will make a custom one $$$$$$ so will Seat Concepts $$$$ so Im living with mine as is for now

 

Wheeling supply have wider pegs in 2 options. Higher or Lower.

 

I know that bike, have a 93 model

 

I would have a local upholsterer do the work to make a seat taller. Less costly and possibly even get to test it out before covering it. Make sure they use actual quality seat foam.

 

It would be fun to have the shorter R swingarm on my C, 1-1/2" shorter - maybe second/third gear power wheelies! But I guess the tire eats the air box.

 

I need to work on my wheelies, I suck at em right now. The short swing arm is fun

 

Well - there is another issue to consider regarding lowering footpegs - at least on my '09 I am allready fighting the problem that the brake pedal cannot be lowered to at height, where i can rest my foot on without having to lift my foot. It really feels uncomfortable - but the brake pedal is adjusted as low as possible.
And lowering the footrest unfortunately doesn't mean that the brake follows downwards....

An doo remember that sliding the forks up in the triple tree does lower the front - but also alters the steering geometry. Stock set-up are not exactly aimed at driving nlo-hands-on - lowering front and even raising rear will change steering, but to the more nervous side...

 

This sort of fits in this thread and I didn't want to start a new one. The pic shows how the stock peg compares to the aftermarket peg that a few of us have. The stock peg should actually be a bit further toward the center of the bike (up in the pic) for the pin hole centers to line up but it was easier to clamp them together this way. The "extra" of the bigger peg is toward the back, that is, the front of both pegs is in the same place when installed. Nice bit of extra support toward the outside of the foot with the bigger peg as well.