How does my engine sound?

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  #11  
Old 08-04-2022, 10:23 PM
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It does until it doesn't. Either you haven't owned a Kawasaki for long or you've been fairly fortunate. One or the other. I have had to put four tensioners in my three Kawaskis, a 1990 Zephyr 550, two in my 1995 KLX650 (the first was another OEM that failed severely in around 8000 miles and one in my 2009 KLX250 (14,000 miles). These are the reason why I learned so much about why the failure and ended up making them for Kaws, Hondas, Yamahas, and a number of other brands. When I did the one for the Zephyr I made five of them and sold them nearly instantly. I've been doing them since 2009. I've had people buy the tensioners because the rattle is noticeable on the 250 as early as 3000-5000 miles.

Most every time there is a buzz on the in-line 4 Kawasakis and that rattle on the single cyllinder Kawasakis it is the cam chain tensioner. It is a fix that only needs adjustment if the clicking or rattle starts again. From what I've experienced and learned that is usually at least around 10,000 miles or more. It's hard to argue with success. The manual units work and hold adjustment, the OEM is usually trashed by the time the rider hears the consistent rattle. If you look up my web site you can see examples of the physical wear pattern. The teeth on the automatic tensioner will wear slightly rounded, noticed by the polish on the teeth, and the underside of the plunger is usually polished by the in and out movement as the tensioner keeps getting pushed back in then sliding back out thousands of times as the engine runs.
 
  #12  
Old 08-30-2022, 03:12 AM
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Are there any videos of the manual cam chain tensioner being fitted to a klx?

Mine has arrived but I'm yet to unbox it or find someone I can get to fit it without issue.
 
  #13  
Old 08-30-2022, 11:23 AM
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There are a few youtube instruction videos. Here is one
There are others too, but this one is comprehensive, almost to a fault. Just make sure you have the engine up on compression when doing the work. Doesn't have to be exactly at Top Dead Center on compression, just up near. You want the cam lobes off the valves and that happens on the compression stroke.
 
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