M1A1,

Sorry about the path this thread took - completely away from your original question.

Now, I have never checked the valves on my KLX250S as I don't have that many miles on it. However, I have done the valves on many other motorcycles and the process is basically the same. On a single cylinder motorcycle, it's quite a simple task to CHECK the valve clearance.

If there is an error in this, please forgive me as I stated I've not done this yet on my KLX.

First of all, the engine must be cold - let it sit overnight before starting this procedure.

Remove the side covers, seat and tank.

Not sure about the rear engine mount - might have to remove it also to have adequate clearance to get the valve cover off.

Now, you need to find TDC. On the left side of the lower engine case there are two screw out plugs. The smaller one is the timing mark, the lower one is the crankshaft of the engine. Using an appropriately sized socket, turn the engine clockwise until the engine is at TDC - the 'T' mark (there is usually a mark to tell you the 'T' mark is coming up) is lined up with the mark on the case.

You might have to remove the ignition coil.

Remove the spark plug wire.

Not sure about the temperature sending wire (have to do this on the KLR)

Remove the 3 bolts that hold the engine's valve cover on.

Now standing on the left side of the bike, slide (carefully - there is a delicate gasket to be considered) away from you and out the right side of the frame. A second set of hands is nice to have to hold hoses and whatever else the cover is snagged on.

If front of you, you will have a total of 4 valves. The ones on your right are the intake (at the rear of the engine when standing on the left side facing the bike) and the ones on your left are the exhaust.

I do not know the specified clearance. The exhaust are usually looser as they have hot exhaust gases blowing across them making them expand more.

Take a feeler gauge and insert it between the cam and the tappet (part number 12032).

If you can insert a feeler gauge, there is that much clearance. There is no such thing as a loose .006 - it is either .006 or .007, not a loose or tight. Find the maximum size that will fit in that area. (below is a diagram that shows one intake and one exhaust valve to look at)


If they are in spec, nothing more has to be done.

If they are not in spec, then the shim must be changed for a size that will allow the proper clearance. (the shim is part number 92180A-T) This is a bit more work as the cams must be loosened so you can get the tappet out of the way.

To just check them, I would estimate that it's about an hour to an hour and a half job. Lots of stuff to take off and put back on again.


Let me know if this helps.

 

In regards to the wobble. I have had bikes in the past start wobbling from beatin the hell out of them and its usually the spokes becoming loose in the front. I would suggest to check your spokes to see if they are possibbly loose. Its also a good maintence routine. Take a screw driver and lightly make a circlular motion over the spokes pressing. It will make a pinging sound as you go around, if you hear a thud a deep sound from one or more, its probablly loose. if they are loose once you tighten them up it total gets rid of the wobble.