how to change front sprockets?
#31
Agree, and if you plan to do your own work, which is not that hard, the tools will pay for them selfs in no time. No need to buy high end tools if you are not going to use them alot, but do buy good one's.
#32
2007 Green machine: "the tools will pay for them selfs in no time. No need to buy high end tools"
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Ya, I would go ahead and buy a reasonable quality set of core tools. Lots of guys have no problem spending $100s on some Wiha, S-K, Snap on, or Mac tool that they'll use once every couple of years, but I personally don't feel there is a need for professional quality if you are not a professional.
Most of my tool box is mid-grade Craftsman/Mastercraft stuff which has lasted for 20+ years now with no sign of needing replacement any time soon...
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Ya, I would go ahead and buy a reasonable quality set of core tools. Lots of guys have no problem spending $100s on some Wiha, S-K, Snap on, or Mac tool that they'll use once every couple of years, but I personally don't feel there is a need for professional quality if you are not a professional.
Most of my tool box is mid-grade Craftsman/Mastercraft stuff which has lasted for 20+ years now with no sign of needing replacement any time soon...
#33
just changed my front sprocket tonight. What a pain in the *****. First take the front sprocket cover off. keep the bike on the ground. Pend back the lock washer, once thats complete. Sit on the bike, grab the front and back brake break... then go for it. Once that is loose. Remove codder pin for rear axle. Its eaiser if you just pull the entire axel. I also took off change guard on the bottom and top. Remove sprocket, place new one on with an oil and grease mixture (recommended in manual). Once done, replace rear axle and tire... align as best as possible, tighten down axle nut to specified torque, adjust chain tension... 1/4 flex in middle both ways. Once complete, I only put the upper guard on.... lube the chain while the whole thing is apart. it should take you 10 minutes to change the oil, make sure you have a little grease for the back of the filter and spring.
#34
just changed my front sprocket tonight. What a pain in the *****. First take the front sprocket cover off. keep the bike on the ground. Pend back the lock washer, once thats complete. Sit on the bike, grab the front and back brake break... then go for it. Once that is loose. Remove codder pin for rear axle. Its eaiser if you just pull the entire axel. I also took off change guard on the bottom and top. Remove sprocket, place new one on with an oil and grease mixture (recommended in manual). Once done, replace rear axle and tire... align as best as possible, tighten down axle nut to specified torque, adjust chain tension... 1/4 flex in middle both ways. Once complete, I only put the upper guard on.... lube the chain while the whole thing is apart. it should take you 10 minutes to change the oil, make sure you have a little grease for the back of the filter and spring.
#35
just changed my front sprocket tonight. What a pain in the *****. First take the front sprocket cover off. keep the bike on the ground. Pend back the lock washer, once thats complete. Sit on the bike, grab the front and back brake break... then go for it. Once that is loose. Remove codder pin for rear axle. Its eaiser if you just pull the entire axel. I also took off change guard on the bottom and top. Remove sprocket, place new one on with an oil and grease mixture (recommended in manual). Once done, replace rear axle and tire... align as best as possible, tighten down axle nut to specified torque, adjust chain tension... 1/4 flex in middle both ways. Once complete, I only put the upper guard on.... lube the chain while the whole thing is apart. it should take you 10 minutes to change the oil, make sure you have a little grease for the back of the filter and spring.
On another note; I put some oil in the oil filter hole before I install the filter.
#36
Like most exercises, it gets easier with practice.
My upper chain guard was removed earlier (large rear sprocket).
The lower chain guide is usually just left there. I used to remove the two rear bolts, loosen the front one, and let it swing down.
I actually enjoy switching out the front sprocket...changing the bike from a hill climbing machine to a road runner, then back
My upper chain guard was removed earlier (large rear sprocket).
The lower chain guide is usually just left there. I used to remove the two rear bolts, loosen the front one, and let it swing down.
I actually enjoy switching out the front sprocket...changing the bike from a hill climbing machine to a road runner, then back
Last edited by IDRIDR; 09-16-2011 at 05:36 AM.
#37
What about going to your local sears store and buying a craftsman socket. Better yet don't just buy one socket, I would buy a set of them.
#38
$40 electric impact wrench....$0.99 27 mm impact wrench socket...bolt holding the front sprocket comes off like nothing in a second...no need to push brake or anything...(tried with a breaker bar and i couldn't do it)....i've been bargain shopping at harbor freight...$39.99 chicago impact wrench with coupon until 9/30/11....
well...that's where i stopped and had to put the original sprocket back on....guess i need the 2 12mm open ended wrench for the little bolt pushing the rear wheel bolts straight...back to the tool store...
well...that's where i stopped and had to put the original sprocket back on....guess i need the 2 12mm open ended wrench for the little bolt pushing the rear wheel bolts straight...back to the tool store...
Last edited by ahnh666; 09-21-2011 at 03:11 AM.
#39
$40 electric impact wrench....$0.99 27 mm impact wrench socket...bolt holding the front sprocket comes off like nothing in a second...no need to push brake or anything...(tried with a breaker bar and i couldn't do it)....i've been bargain shopping at harbor freight...$39.99 chicago impact wrench with coupon until 9/30/11....
well...that's where i stopped and had to put the original sprocket back on....guess i need the 2 12mm open ended wrench for the little bolt pushing the rear wheel bolts straight...back to the tool store...
well...that's where i stopped and had to put the original sprocket back on....guess i need the 2 12mm open ended wrench for the little bolt pushing the rear wheel bolts straight...back to the tool store...
There is no harm in using the impact if in neutral however if the bike were in gear you would be stressing the gear mesh. in neutral the only resistance is the chain to the rear wheel. Just thought i would add that info for the future readers wanting to use an impact.
#40
thanks...the bike is always on neutral when i have it parked (unless it's on a hill)
I hope when you used the impact wrench that you had the bike in Neutral,,
There is no harm in using the impact if in neutral however if the bike were in gear you would be stressing the gear mesh. in neutral the only resistance is the chain to the rear wheel. Just thought i would add that info for the future readers wanting to use an impact.
There is no harm in using the impact if in neutral however if the bike were in gear you would be stressing the gear mesh. in neutral the only resistance is the chain to the rear wheel. Just thought i would add that info for the future readers wanting to use an impact.