Hopefully this will help a few people out if they're struggling with chain removal and installation.
I had to be shown this technique myself - I didn't just figure it out. It's all about the technique!

OK, first off, get your bike up on a stand so that it's not leaning towards you... Much easier when the bike isn't fighting you (leaning on you).



Remove your chain guard (if you still have it). Not mandatory, but it's just in the way - that's right where I like to work.

 

Rotate your rear wheel so that the master link is on or near the rear sprocket like so.



Take note of what a healthy master link looks like... NO GAP in the centre where the split is.
Also take note of the direction - closed end goes forward, in the direction of rotation.
Hey look at that - it says '42' on my stock rear sprocket - I never noticed that!

 

Technique #1 - removing the split clip
I've seen people try to squeeze this clip off in a few different ways. This is the way that works for me every time with no swearing what-so-ever. Use a high quality pair of needle-nosed vise grips, with nice sharp tips that close tightly (no cheapo grips! Standard Irwin's are fine.).

Use the left-most pin and the very end of the master clip as shown. Set your vise grip jaws appropriately so that when you squeeze the handle shut, the jaws are nearly shut as well (1/4 inch). Now as you squeeze, also do a very slight twisting motion on the right jaw of the vise grip (i.e. the force is going mostly to the left, but also slightly upwards). Try to convince the clip to split at the right end.







It should slide over fairly easily if you have a good grip on it with your vise grip - you need nice sharp jaws.
Notice the clip is still in nice shape and the split in the middle is still tightly shut. If it's not tight - throw it away.





Take note of the grooves that the clip fits into. On re-assembly, you need to make sure these grooves are visible.



Now, roll the wheel ahead slightly to get the master link just ahead of the rear sprocket.

 

Technique #2 - pressing out the link
This is where a good deal of swearing comes in when you don't have the technique down. I use the short end of a hex key and rest it across the two master pins. Adjust your needle nose vise grips a little wider for this job - maybe 3/4 inch jaw opening when the handle is shut.

Put the upper jaw right into the middle of the master link as shown, and now squeeze to press the pins out. As soon as you move them about 1/8 inch the link will probably go flying out the back so be prepared for that. You don't want to loose any o-rings!









And voila! Link pops out. Mine actually did fly out, so I had to put it back in for picture time. The front side of the link is not in the photo - it's on the ground, along with the 2 o-rings for this side.

 

So, chain removal from this point is pretty obvious... Just make sure the bike is in neutral and then yank the chain out from the counter-sprocket area.

Now, for re-installation and technique #3.
I find it's easiest to get the master link back in over at the rear sprocket, but it all depends on how much slack you have. If you have lots of slack you can bring the two ends together pretty easy. Don't forget the 2 o-rings when you put the master link back in! (if you have an o-ring chain).



Now that the link is holding the chain together, roll the wheel ahead again so the link is just ahead of the rear sprocket.



Put your o-rings back on the front side, and put the front side link member back onto the pins.





Push it down finger tight, then we'll have to press it on with some force in the next instalment.

 

Technique #3 - pressing the link together
A simple 8mm socket and a larger set of jaws is all you need (I'm using channel locks here). Slip the socket over each pin to apply force to the outside link plate. You have to do one side at a time, in small increments. Small squeeze on the left, small squeeze on the right, repeat.









Do this until you can clearly see the groove for the split clip. You should even see the lower shoulder of the pin (i.e. beyond the groove). You can see that lower shoulder in this photo. This is important - if you don't have enough groove showing here, you clip may not seat correctly and that can be disastrous!

 

Inspect your master link - a healthy master link has no gap in the middle.
DON"T RISK IT! They're cheap!





Make sure to put the closed end forward - in the direction of rotation. Just rest the clip like so and get your needle-nose vise grips ready again.





Set the jaws nice and small - almost closed when the handle is shut.
For leverage, use the same pin as before (the left one) and the rounded end of the clip.

 

Make sure the clip is sliding nicely into the groove at both ends, and then give er a squeeze.
She should slide into place - nice and smooth, and then clamp shut nice and tight.
If you see a gap in the split, there is a problem. Either you're not in the groove or you've buggered your master clip.

 

Great howto and photos, Kawi Wawi!

 

Absolutely priceless to anyone on the internet struggling with a chain removal.

Way to go man! Excellent excellent post. Incredible details and first rate photos, Kawi Wawi! A great sticky for out KLX forum. [8D][8D][8D]