help removing stubborn disk bolts

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  #1  
Old 06-17-2010 | 04:27 AM
beebop's Avatar
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Default help removing stubborn disk bolts

Hey guys, my first post here and im not even a kawasaki owner. I have a megelli 250M which no forum exists for it and i chose to ask you guys for technical help since i have been following this forum for about a year for tech advice and it has been a tremendous help. So i hope no one hates me because i cant afford the klx but i really need some help here.
My disk brakes front and back are bent. It is a factory fault that they refuse to make a recall on but i have managed to buy a new set of disks and now the problem i have is taking the old disks off. Damn it the allen key bolts are so tight that if i use too much force on my long handle torque wrench, i can feel the bolts starting to warp or strip off. All of them are like this. As if its all been glued on!! How can i get these bolts to open? Should i try an impact wrench? Or will that just snap of the bolt heads? Sorry i have very little mechanical knowledge and im so scared that i will strip all the bolts and end up puting a grinder to the wheel to get the disk off. Also when i put the new disk on, should i put some kind of thread glue on it like it seems to have rite now?
Many thanks to anyone who can advise me.
Beebop
 
  #2  
Old 06-17-2010 | 04:59 AM
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Those bolts are usually pretty tough to get loose. Try heating them up with a torch first to burn off the loctite. If you have an impact screwdriver and some appropriate bits, that will probably get it. It's a fun tool to use if nothing else.
 
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Old 06-17-2010 | 01:12 PM
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I have a 65 Galaxie 500 that I had to remove the exhauts manifolds off of. The bad part is that someone use some cheap bolts on it. I ened up breaking the head clean off one of them. There was just enough of the bolt sticking out I could get vise grips on. I found an amazing product online that no one should be without in their garage. I was able to get the bolt out without having to remove the head off the engine. It took a little time but I had tried all other anti-sieze products on the market with no luck. I ended up ordering off line but the web site says you can buy locally in some places.
 

Last edited by TexasKawai; 06-17-2010 at 01:19 PM.
  #4  
Old 06-17-2010 | 02:39 PM
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Welcome to the forums

Hate you because you cant afford the klx? That could not be further from the truth man. Oh I suppose there are some forums out there that are owner only regulated, but not here. We thrive on a variety of people on whatever they ride. We even have a moderator who owns a KTM, who used to own a KLX. We may have had the bike in common at one time, but what he gives back on the forums goes so far beyond the bike he used to have. Trust me we will help in anyway we can, and we also look forward to your sharing how the project goes with pictures and sharing what you do and where you live. That's what it's all about here. so again, a warm welcome extended to you my friend!
 
  #5  
Old 06-17-2010 | 05:04 PM
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I would apply a penetrating oil for a few days to loosen. If that does'nt work use some heat around the bolts. Good luck.
 
  #6  
Old 06-17-2010 | 05:23 PM
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I think both heating the bolts to melt the locktite, then applying some good penetrating oil like "liquid wrench" and let it sit overnight should do the trick. Good luck. If nothing else the grinder will definately work...then take the bolts to your hardware store and get some good quality replacements.
 
  #7  
Old 06-17-2010 | 06:31 PM
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I'm a big fan of the impact screw driver also, but it may be hard to get an allen bit for it? Someone already mentioned a torch, I would think this alone would work it out for you. Just dont mix penetrating oil's and flame at the same time

Also this may seem silly, but taking the wheel off and putting it in the easiest possible (and stable) position to work on helps a lot. You said you're using a torque wrench. I assume this mean's a ratchet style device with an allen bit and not just a long allen wrench?

Also, breaking the head off sometimes happens, it's not the worst thing ever, sometimes, breaking it off, and then drilling and using an easy out is easier than wrestling with it trying desperately to not break it.

Lastly, I would plan from the get-go to replace those bolts if you can.
 
  #8  
Old 06-17-2010 | 07:55 PM
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Try to heat the bolts only and not the surrounding area, with a pencil flame or similar, and remember to apply force to the bolts before they cool and the locktite has time to set again.
 
  #9  
Old 06-17-2010 | 09:43 PM
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Don't try from the front. Get a wrench on the nut behind the rotor and smack it with a hammer. Otherwise your trying to turn a tapered fit bolt and the rust around the shaft of the bolt.
 
  #10  
Old 06-18-2010 | 01:39 AM
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kroil
acetone & automatic transmission fluid

if you strip out the bolts head, tig weld another bolt to it. heat will loosen the loctite and the bolt will help to get a grip on it

you could mig weld it but the splatter will be messy, tig will be way cleaner
 

Last edited by RaceGass; 06-18-2010 at 01:41 AM.


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