OK got the DJ kit 2182 The needle is the same length and looks exactly the same as the stock. It came with an extra spring with more resistance which i installed with the new needle and a DJ 116 main which was recommended. Got it to idle. if i punch the gas it will rev up the rpm range. if i lightly gas it to 2-4k rpm it bogs heavy and dies. Just as before. I'm getting nowhere.

in the dynojet troubleshooting paper that came with the kit it mentions 2k-4k engine stumble has something to do with cam overlap, cam / ignition timing which i do not understand. Says that you can try remedying it with installing the stock spring with less resistance = more air. Will be doing this first thing tomorrow but I'm afraid ill be right where i was at with the stock needle ( DJ needle looking identical) and spring. Also mentions something about float level. how can i adjust this?

How do i get MORE AIR in this thing?
i feel that is my problem going by recommendations and everything I've read.
Do i need a new exhaust?
Do i need a new carb?
Do i need to take this to a super kawasaki engine specialist and pay $1000?
Is the pilot jet in this carb an air jet or a fuel jet??
should i try a 40 pilot when the step up from 35 to 38 yielded no difference?
Do i just give this thing away to the first sucker to walk past my house?
What on earth is going on...

I love riding this bike. I rode it up a trail yesterday and i had a blast! Died on me on every hill climb. Was downright hilarious i would rev it up in first gear and spin that street tire in the soft pumice like crazy trying to get forward motion. As soon as i would get moving id have it pinned trying to keep it revved enough to stay moving in 1st gear! Would just bog up and id have to pull the clutch in and out while keeping throttle pinned.

P.S. i am new to off road dirt biking but there is no way this is right. Im not climbing steep hills by no means whatsoever.

Please any more help much appreciated. Whats my logical next step?

 

Here's an answer to one of your questions:
The pilot jet meters fuel. At your elevation you should be REDUCEING the size of the pilot jet. The pilot circuit in the carb meters fuel flow at idle and a bit above idle. The pilot jet and pilot screw are in parallel. With the engine warmed up, adjust the pilot screw for max rpm. Adjust idle speed if necessary. If the pilot screw is turned out less than 3/4 turn, the pilot jet is too big. If the pilot screw is turned out more than 3 turns, the pilot jet is too small. If the pilot screw has no affect on the idle, the carb is running on the needle/needle jet circuit.....the idle speed adjustment needs to be backed out to allow the slide to close more.

Your loss of low to mid range power is not likely caused by the pilot circuit. The needle and needle jet are doing most of the fuel metering in that range. Try moving the clip on the needle up and down one position and see if there is an improvement.

When you reassemble the carb, make sure that none of the "feet" on the white plastic cage are blocking the hole in the bottom of the slide.

Ride on
Brewster

 

So I've gone through nearly every combination of 2 jets kits, 3 different needles, and alternate pilot jets. Ive lowered the float level for it to run leaner. It now pops a lot more on deceleration. I've tried all the needle positions. have had air box lid off and on for all of this. It is very jerky low end and basically doesn't run from 2k-3krpm.

I can get the bike to idle and rev up to red line with many settings. The only time it will bog and die is very specifically if i crack the throttle between 2k and 3k rpm. I am basically ruling out jets and needles at this time because as I've said. I've tried them all....

Drill more holes in slide? make the 1 bigger?

By the way brewster the "feet" on the white plastic cage ARE out of the way of the slide hole and cannot be fully inserted with the feet covering the hole. so that rules that out.

So if this is not carb related. whats next?

Should i be calling the dealership i got this POS from and try to claim that it was not functioning properly from the store? It was suppose to have gone through a "125pt inspection". with no warranty do i even have any grounds for this or will they just laugh at me?

 

I'd put all the stock components back in the carb and set the air screw 2 turns out. Get it as close to stock as possible and let us know what it's doing. A stock KLX will run fine at 8k'. Forget taking the airbox lid off, that totally changes what jetting you need. How does the carb vent line look?

It might not hurt to call the dealer, even if they're not obligated they may want to help.



.

 

the carb vent line is fine. boiled the carb today and set it back to stock conditions, i still get the loss of power on the very bottom end. Its with the throttle barely cracked it wants to die. noticed that if i turn my idle screw up past 1700 or so the idle begins to lower and bog down as i keep turning it. it will get down to 1000rpms before it then shoots up and fluctuates at 4000-5000 rpms just off the idle screw alone.

 

did you adj the pilot air screw?

 

basically done with this ****. am about to drive 150 miles to a dealership to get this thing out of my life. its apparent i was scammed at the original dealership so i may as well take a couple thousand dollars loss and just get scammed again somewhere else.

this bike runs like crap. I'm all out of ideas and i think officially dont give a **** anymore. Will a dealership even take this piece?

 

I've adjusted the pilot gas screw. leaned it out. have richened it up. all it does is change the idle. nothing has any effect as soon as i touch the gas.

 

After more extensive reading and searching the web i came across this forum

KLR650 low speed carb issue - ADVrider

The OP describes my problem perfectly (although on a different bike). He notices that he is missing the "collar" that sits just above the needle jet. This "collar" is suppose to be sticking up into the carb throat where the needle drops into it. I am also missing this "collar". I am gathering that without this extra fuel restriction as soon as my needle moves up the slightest amount, it dumps out too much gas. causing my problem (i hope).
The OP replaced this "collar" and the coasting enricher diaphram and claims to have solved the problem. Although i think he only changed the diaphram because he had drilled the vent hole and wanted to undo that change.

I have ordered.
92143-1667--------Needle Collar

which i found on a parts list on this post.
Finally! Which Pipe for KLX250s? - ADVrider

this post said that this "collar" is required for N1TC needle. Im not sure what needle that is or if it is one that i have from my jet kit collection. But shouldn't this "collar" be in my stock carburetor? leads me to believe that the original owner must have lost it. Which seems like an easy thing to do if you take out the needle jet.

Anyway, keep your fingers crossed for me. i be praying.... oh lord am i praying...

 

Yes, that is probably your problem. I think that collar is supposed to be there on all those CVK carbs.