HELP! Getting poor fuel mileage

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #81  
Old 01-23-2012, 02:32 AM
TNC's Avatar
TNC
TNC is offline
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Abilene, TX
Posts: 5,050
Default

Originally Posted by Landon
Ouch. I am no expert, but you have to start and learn somehow. I guess I should just load the bike up and take it to the dealer and drop a ton of money for them to work on it. Then again I think not, I will keep working on it and fix it myself. Its called learning and I will be more knowledgable next time I need to do it.
Landon, my comment wasn't in reference to your attempts. I was referring to brooksie's suggestions that the mods aren't worth it.
 
  #82  
Old 01-23-2012, 02:45 PM
brooksie's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 86
Default

Originally Posted by TNC
brooksie, I think you may be giving the engineers too much credit on some of this. The airbox has to be designed with some serious compromises to EPA noise standards. It is not an optimum performance device. You don't have jetting nightmares by altering the opening, removing the backfire screen, trying different filters, etc., on our KLX's. You have jetting nightmares by not knowing how to jet the carb/engine...or perform the other mechanical steps involved in the jetting process.

You commented that some of these intake and carb mods only help acceleration and produce no power gains. How our bikes accelerate is kind of important to most of us.
No doubt. I think that every bike we get needs moderate tweeking to let the bike be itself and run with some gusto. You are absolutely right that the way the bike accelerates is very important. My experience has been that when an air box is radically altered or removed, jetting can be done to have great performance but can be touchy. I agree that once you have the jetting right for whatever configuration you use, you'll never have to do much to it after that. I am the last person to say I know this bike. I only have a deposit on one and have only rode one about six years ago in stock trim.
Originally Posted by Landon
Ouch. I am no expert, but you have to start and learn somehow. I guess I should just load the bike up and take it to the dealer and drop a ton of money for them to work on it. Then again I think not, I will keep working on it and fix it myself. Its called learning and I will be more knowledgable next time I need to do it.
Oh boy, I think you got me wrong there. I think every step you've taken is well based and done better than I could do it. I wouldn't take it to a dealer, as you probably have more on the ball and know the bike very well. I just think if it doesn't respond to all the fact based, well executed steps you're taking, take it back to stock or as close as you can so you can ride it. The way you've gone after this issue shows you know what you're doing and what to look for. I'm sorry for any misunderstanding. To be honest, I never had the patience for these kind of diagnostics and generally don't have the skills you've shown. Hang in there and I'll be rooting for your cure!!!
 
  #83  
Old 01-24-2012, 12:54 AM
Landon's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 229
Default

Look out boys....this b**** is ready to roll!!!!

I spent the evening in the garage and tore the bike all the way back down and took the carb off completely, pulled the plug and checked it was installed to spec and I had grabbed the correct one out of the cabinet (I also have plugs for and ST1300 and KLR650 in there). So here is my bit of advise as a rookie at working on a carb:

Check the diaphram is installed correctly before putting it back on the bike. Here is how to do that and how the slide should react...

GOOD 2005 Harley XL CV Carb Diaphragm - YouTube

If its not installed incorrectly, it will do this...

BAD 2005 Harley XL CV Carb Diaphragm - YouTube

Needless to say when I pulled my carb it reacted like the second video. I assume when I used a small pick to get the diaphram installed back in the grove the I thought I had got it right and it had actually kinked in and thus did not seal and create the vacuum needed.

Anyway, its back together and after a short mile ride down the road and back it seems it rips and roars with zero issues. I did install the kreiger manual tensioner also, I think it might need a slight adjustment to take up just a little slack left. Next nice day I have free I plan to take it out for a good 60 or so mile ride and see what kind of fuel mileage I get now. It might be a couple weeks before I get out to ride though, its kind of cold here.
 
  #84  
Old 01-24-2012, 05:43 AM
IDRIDR's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 4,507
Default

Bravo!
Nice find on the cvk vids.
When someone tries to explain the 'delay' or disconnected nature of the cvk, this should do it.
 
  #85  
Old 01-24-2012, 02:31 PM
DYNOBOB's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 304
Default

Nice job!

Look forward to hearing your numbers.


.
 
  #86  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:34 PM
brooksie's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 86
Default

Well allreeeeet!
I'll bring mine to you this summer!!!!
 
  #87  
Old 01-24-2012, 11:30 PM
Landon's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 229
Default

Originally Posted by brooksie
Well allreeeeet!
I'll bring mine to you this summer!!!!
I'd seriously be happy to help you out. Its always easier to do when someone thats done it before is there to help guide you.
 
  #88  
Old 01-25-2012, 12:04 AM
brooksie's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 86
Default

Originally Posted by Landon
I'd seriously be happy to help you out. Its always easier to do when someone thats done it before is there to help guide you.
Cool! I'll probably do the pipe/air cleaner after the first valve adjustment. I'm also interested in the cold starting cure. That's why I'm getting this bike so I can put the ZX away in November and thrash the KLX all winter. Great job on the bike. You have way more patience than I!!!!
 
  #89  
Old 01-25-2012, 12:11 AM
Landon's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 229
Default

Originally Posted by brooksie
Cool! I'll probably do the pipe/air cleaner after the first valve adjustment. I'm also interested in the cold starting cure. That's why I'm getting this bike so I can put the ZX away in November and thrash the KLX all winter. Great job on the bike. You have way more patience than I!!!!
Well to be honest I was start to get frustrated with it. But now that its done and I figured out what I had wrong and looking back on it, its really not that complicated. I learned a lot through this process and the carb really isn't all that complicated once you figure it all out.
 
  #90  
Old 02-09-2012, 04:20 PM
System6's Avatar
Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South of South Hills of Pittsburgh
Posts: 95
Default

Thanks Landon.
I just finished re-jetting my carb and wasn't sure I put everything back together correctly.
The slide went back together too easy.
Your videos were reassuring.
Seems I got it right.
Be well.
 


Quick Reply: HELP! Getting poor fuel mileage



All times are GMT. The time now is 02:46 PM.