Hi all

Recently I decided to go for it and do the Dynojet Stage 2 install on my 09 klx 250s. I have done this as well as install an FMF Q4 slip-on to replace the stock muffler. Everything went fairly smoothly until it was time to put the carb back into the bike. I can't for the life of me make the damn thing fit .

I'm pretty sure I have routed the vent hoses correctly but cant figure out how to get the carb in far enough to line up with the engine inlet and air box boots. Another problem is how to get the carb past the end of the air box boot without pinching anything.

What tricks can you guys share to help me with the re-install? Is there anything I should remove or loosen to help with getting the carb back in? I'm a complete noob at this and at this point feel lost in what to do. Any pointers are appreciated. BTW my bike does not have any of the california smog crap (canister etc).

Look forward to any advice. Cheers guys and gals.

 

When I did it I pulled the rubber boot from the airbox that goes to the carb and marked it so I'd know how to put it back. Then just slide the carb back in the way it came out by moving stuff around including the wiring harness that runs over the top of the carb. It might help to put a small amout of grease just inside the rubber boot the carb slides in on the motor side and push it back up in there. Try and see what is holding it out and turn it slightly to work around what is holding it out as the carb can be rotated quite a bit once in place. I didn't worry about the hoses and their routeing until I had the carb back in place, then I got a long set of needle nose pliars and routed the drains and such in their stock locations. make sure you pull the wiring harness into the correct location above the carb before you reinstall much.

 

It's a pain for sure, but persistence and patients will pay off.
linkin posted some good tips. I get the carb in the engine and the boot in the airbox and then lastly work the boot over the carb.
Dan

 

I do not use any grease. I clean everything off and make sure its dry of grease, gas or anything else. Once you get the carb in the boot lined up with the notch on the right side sitting on the seat, tighten it up and work on the air box hose. It takes time and some times a small round rod to help. Last time I totally unscrewed the clamp and moved it so I could work the hose on.


I re routed all the hoses so I can reach the choke with ease.

We all have our own way.

Patients is a great attribute to a mechanic.

You will get it.

David

 

The guy who made the carb got the exact measurements from the guy who made the frame. It's a tight fit. It goes down in from the top. There's a electrical connector the you have to keep out of the way. You have to hold your mouth just right and it goes. Walk away and come back and try again.

 

Hi all, thanks for all the replies. Think I may have finally got it on after today. Took alot of twisting etc, but I think I finally have the carb seated.

Just need to get a new screw for one of the brackets that tightens the air boot around the carb. Went flying off god knows where when the bracket sprung back open. The joys of doing this the first time, lol.

Anywho hopefully once its all said and done, the bike runs well. I'm hoping I wont need to mess with jetting too much. Time will tell. Installed the DJ 128 main jet as per the stage 2 instructions. E-clip in on the 3rd notch on the needle. Will be riding anywhere from 3500 to 6000+ ft.

Cheers all.

 

I use silicone spry when a carb doesn't want to re-boot.