Head/Piston explosion update

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  #51  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 2veedubs

If this were the case then why only one exhaust valve broken, they are opened by the same cam. Also the broken valves bucket was visibly lower like the valve seized in the guide.

On another note cast pistons burn different than a nice forged piston.
Who knows, it could have been 20 different things.

I just have never seen an engine melt down and cause valve failure because it was too lean.

Because it was over revved ? Yes

Because it wasn't broken in yet ? Yes

Because something was installed incorrectly ? Yes

Because the timing was off ? Yes

Because it had no coolant in it ? Yes

Because it had no oil in it ? Yes

But because it was merely lean? No way
 
  #52  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:29 AM
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I see, bucket up due too loss of valve head.
 
  #53  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:33 AM
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Back to the timing thing, some people are blaming the cam mod. If that were the case then both valves should have sheared off.
 
  #54  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jhoffy22
A little harsh, but yeah. I enjoyed my bike for a month or two. It's a lesson learned to make sure that I know what I'm doing the next time I do something out of my spectrum of know-how. I'll never sell this bike without intents to get another one. I've ridden bikes all my life since I was a little kid(I'm 21 now). It's just one of those things that I genuinely enjoy. I'm passionate about riding. I'm also a go-getter and it often times gets me in trouble when messing with things that require time and patience.

I know I'll get it worked out. And I definitely plan on taking it to a licensed mechanic(probably a dealership that services Kawasakis). The head is warranted if installed by a licensed mechanic. It's on my to-do list though in the future to learn the ins and out of engines.

While the bike is parked though, it's giving me a lot of time to do all the other little things that I want to do. I just dropped off all the plastics to get carbon fiber wrapped. I'll post pics when it's done.
I don't mean it to be harsh, but man, blowing up your bike after you have only had it for a couple of months? Tearing into it without any knowledge or research, or even the right tools.

I paid hard earned money for my bike, I treat it well. Everything that goes into it is well thought out and planned.

I couldn't live with myself if I blew up my bike at all, nevermind at 2 months.

I praise you for being so motivated but killing your bike shouldn't be the result.
 
  #55  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:40 AM
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The real problem was that he killed it in such a public manner. We have all made mistakes and hopefully learned from them. Jhoffy has the world providing comment on his error.
 
  #56  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 2veedubs
Back to the timing thing, some people are blaming the cam mod. If that were the case then both valves should have sheared off.
He didn't even torque the head bolts down. So we know he didn't torque the cam bolts down. One of them could have came loose, eventually loosening or bending the bracket that holds the cams down. A loose cam hitting one of those buckets causes it to jump out of its hole or not seat correctly, next time the cam comes around, BAM, pushes one of the valves way too far into the combustion chamber and its over.
 
  #57  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:53 AM
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I remember you mentioned really black oil.
Was oil getting around to everything?
I think your break in strategy was ride it like you stole it. That method is pretty much what I did.
I'd like you to take everything to a good mechanic and let them check it all out. Stop taking things apart and let someone investigate this for you.
I may as well ask.
Do YOU think the cam mod caused this? How confident are you that it was done correctly?
I don't think it was the mod.
Did you check the valve clearance after you went back and did the after thought torque of bolts?
Bottom line is that something happened bad. It could've been in your none methodical approach to a large number of mods at once that something was missed or done incorrectly that caused a part to fail or MAYBE something just failed.
Patience Grasshopper!
 
  #58  
Old 07-07-2011, 02:49 AM
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if the cam bearings and head bolts were not torqued with a quality torque wrench. I am going to vote on that being the cause. Bike ran ok until improperly torqued bolts backed off. I am a certifed ASE mechanic, though I specialize in electrical electronic headaches. I have been wondering from the start of this thread if it was technique that caused this. Marcelino brings up a good point about the high rpm shifting and the BMW's. I really feel if the engine were assembled by me. This wouldnt have happened. Though I would not have done the cam mod's, I love the sound of my bike with no airbox lid(mines carb'd though). And my understanding of doing the cam mod was to quiet down the FI intake noise. Look at any modern economy car. They all have intake boots that have "mufflers" to quiet that obnoxious noise.
 
  #59  
Old 07-07-2011, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by clgdswr
if the cam bearings and head bolts were not torqued with a quality torque wrench. I am going to vote on that being the cause. Bike ran ok until improperly torqued bolts backed off. I am a certifed ASE mechanic, though I specialize in electrical electronic headaches. I have been wondering from the start of this thread if it was technique that caused this. Marcelino brings up a good point about the high rpm shifting and the BMW's. I really feel if the engine were assembled by me. This wouldnt have happened. Though I would not have done the cam mod's, I love the sound of my bike with no airbox lid(mines carb'd though). And my understanding of doing the cam mod was to quiet down the FI intake noise. Look at any modern economy car. They all have intake boots that have "mufflers" to quiet that obnoxious noise.
The bolts weren't torqued to spec the first time through. The second time through I went back and torqued everything down right. This didn't all happen until after I had put 100 miles on the 351
 
  #60  
Old 07-07-2011, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jhoffy22
I spoke to a professional mechanic today and showed them my head and piston. He told me that what caused this was very clear and it was because I was simply running way too lean. He said that he had seen this before and there was no doubt about it. The thing is, I was running the richest Dynojet(#132) offered in the kit. I had the needle 3rd notch down with two washers on top. Granted I was still running the stock #35 pilot jet. I would like to know where I can get the #38 pilot jet for when I get everything back together.

Here are the pics for anyone that never saw them:


I don't know about y'all but the top of this piston does NOT look like it was lean,, ever!!!
 


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