Have Muzzy...Do I need gaskets?
#11
07-19-2006, 04:08 AM
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 12,584
RE: Have Muzzy...Do I need gaskets?
that is the best help i have seen yet for carb problems and how to fix it, thanks.
well im not having any issues, runs great, i just had mentioned in an earlier post that the exhaust side of my rear fender was getting dark from the exhaust, thats when i screwed the air fuel screw in a half turn to 2 turns out, and i do have a full big gun evo x, and 125 main, and bla bla all the usual, have a uni air filter ordered from kawi dealer.
well im not having any issues, runs great, i just had mentioned in an earlier post that the exhaust side of my rear fender was getting dark from the exhaust, thats when i screwed the air fuel screw in a half turn to 2 turns out, and i do have a full big gun evo x, and 125 main, and bla bla all the usual, have a uni air filter ordered from kawi dealer.
#12
07-19-2006, 04:18 AM
RE: Have Muzzy...Do I need gaskets?
The easiest way to check for that is to pull the spark plug and examine the color / texture. Black and shiney means too rich, fouling. Dark chocolate brown to light brown or grey, no shine, powdery look is what you want - that's the perfect burn pattern. Light gray or whitish ash would be too lean, too hot.
Here is a good description and some excellent photos for what the spark plug can tell you:
http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm
Here is a good description and some excellent photos for what the spark plug can tell you:
http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm
#14
07-19-2006, 09:04 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Have Muzzy...Do I need gaskets?
you can get the plug out w/out removing anything. take your oem tool kit, put on the spark plug tool and turn it with the right sized wrench also in the oem bag. to get the tool on the spark plug itself tilt it to the right of the cycle and pull it up and it will slide right down onto the plug. it takes a few minutes to unscrew it but it's not hard. you'll see what i mean when you do it. just go slow and make sure it is threaded right when you install it. just put in a new one after you check. since you have never removed it you can't judge your tuning with that one since it was on there before you did the carb work and exhaust. a new plug is $5.95 NGK CR8E and when I put in a new one it made the bike run a lot better. I have yet to check it out since I just put it in one ride ago. stick with NGK as they are the best plugs made.
#15
07-21-2006, 04:30 AM
RE: Have Muzzy...Do I need gaskets?
I was curious about the air filters also. From what I have read leaning towards the Uni.
For the heatshield I am gonna try the Moose Carbon Fiber one talked about in this post Exhaust Wrap Post and will probably later redo a mount for the stock guard.
For the heatshield I am gonna try the Moose Carbon Fiber one talked about in this post Exhaust Wrap Post and will probably later redo a mount for the stock guard.
#16
07-23-2006, 06:37 AM
RE: Have Muzzy...Do I need gaskets?
I have ordered a muzzy and got a "gasket exhaust" 11060-1203, have not installed it yet, it is a copper crush gasket. As for the air filter, Uni makes filters that have a protective liner for bikes with the back fire screen removed. Not sure that UNI make a filter of this type that will fit the KLX250 and according to what I have read you are taking a huge risk by removing it. Your bike could catch fire and burn......
#17
07-23-2006, 08:29 PM
RE: Have Muzzy...Do I need gaskets?
So, the Muzzy is installed and the basic mods done. What a difference. I re-used the copper gasket. I left the backfire screen intact. My friend helped me tap and install permanent plugs for the smog control stuff. I had 2000+ miles on her before the mods, holy crap, it's a new bike now. My friend John posted a report on the work we did.
I just wanted to say THANK YOU to everyone on this forum for all the valuble info. I am much happier with my little green machine now. Wish me luck keepin up with that 525EXC.
Ryan.
I don't own a KLX, but I helped my riding buddy Ryan uncork his yesterday. We did all the simple mods, using a KDX snorkle and Muzzy pipe with quiet insert and spark arrestor. We used a new needle and clip rather than shimming the stock one. We kept the stock airbox screen and air filter, as well as the 35 pilot jet.
Here are a few observations that might be of interest:
Plugging the vacuum port at the front of the carb:
Invert the carb at a 45 degree angle in a padded bench vise
Drill and tap the hole in the brass fitting to 8-32 SAE (US) threads. Use a light lubricant on the tap to reduce binding.
IMPORTANT NOTE: to prevent shavings from getting into the carb, apply low air pressure (20 psi) at the large air port at the carb inlet. This will encourage shavings to exit down and out.
Install stainless 8-32 internal hex cap screw with RED loctite.
Drilling the slide:
Apparently some mis-information is circulating about the hole size. We used 7/64th inch, NOT a #10 which is WAY too big. I personally haven't read about using a #10 bit, but Ryan assures me he has seen it in print here.
Plugging the air injection reed valve port fitting:
Remove the entire assemble from the head and clamp the front section only in a padded vise.
Drill the hole slightly oversized and tap with a 1/8 NPT tapered pipe tap. Again, use a lubricant and go slowly.
Install a socket head pipe plug using RED loctite.
Reinstall the reed valve assembly using high temp silicone sealant on the gaskets. (Alternately - clean and install new gaskets.)
The Quiet Core insert went into the Muzzy can without difficulties, but the spark arrestor is a bit finicky. You have to support the screen with your two longest fingers (think gynecological exam here) while aligning and tightening the cap. Otherwise the screen can fall down out of the recess and make it difficult to get the end cap on straight.
We used a thin smear of copper (high temp) silicone sealer on the exhaust slip joints to prevent soot and air leakage. The rear pipe to muffler joint seemed a little loose to me.... The front one was plenty tight. The soot issue is cosmetic, but air leaking in will cause popping on deceleration.
The two port screws are a SUPER SANO, reversable mod and will be much more reliable long term than using rubber caps or other less-than-satisfactory solutions. The bike ran great on a short test hop, and while not quite as powerful as Ryan hoped for, it would wheelie wth relative ease and it sure sounded great.
EDIT: after riding the bike later, Ryan sent me this note:
"I love it. Its a whole new bike. Not too much power below 3000 but it will redline scary fast now. I had it over 70 in two blocks (safely, out at the lake), way faster than before. Now I need a gearing change for the trail. Worried that I will make the bike hard to ride on the road though. I will read up on that."
Being the owner of a 525EXC, I think the KLX250 is a fine bike, but it sure is time consuming to work on in comparison!!!!
John Davies
Spokane WA
Here are a few observations that might be of interest:
Plugging the vacuum port at the front of the carb:
Invert the carb at a 45 degree angle in a padded bench vise
Drill and tap the hole in the brass fitting to 8-32 SAE (US) threads. Use a light lubricant on the tap to reduce binding.
IMPORTANT NOTE: to prevent shavings from getting into the carb, apply low air pressure (20 psi) at the large air port at the carb inlet. This will encourage shavings to exit down and out.
Install stainless 8-32 internal hex cap screw with RED loctite.
Drilling the slide:
Apparently some mis-information is circulating about the hole size. We used 7/64th inch, NOT a #10 which is WAY too big. I personally haven't read about using a #10 bit, but Ryan assures me he has seen it in print here.
Plugging the air injection reed valve port fitting:
Remove the entire assemble from the head and clamp the front section only in a padded vise.
Drill the hole slightly oversized and tap with a 1/8 NPT tapered pipe tap. Again, use a lubricant and go slowly.
Install a socket head pipe plug using RED loctite.
Reinstall the reed valve assembly using high temp silicone sealant on the gaskets. (Alternately - clean and install new gaskets.)
The Quiet Core insert went into the Muzzy can without difficulties, but the spark arrestor is a bit finicky. You have to support the screen with your two longest fingers (think gynecological exam here) while aligning and tightening the cap. Otherwise the screen can fall down out of the recess and make it difficult to get the end cap on straight.
We used a thin smear of copper (high temp) silicone sealer on the exhaust slip joints to prevent soot and air leakage. The rear pipe to muffler joint seemed a little loose to me.... The front one was plenty tight. The soot issue is cosmetic, but air leaking in will cause popping on deceleration.
The two port screws are a SUPER SANO, reversable mod and will be much more reliable long term than using rubber caps or other less-than-satisfactory solutions. The bike ran great on a short test hop, and while not quite as powerful as Ryan hoped for, it would wheelie wth relative ease and it sure sounded great.
EDIT: after riding the bike later, Ryan sent me this note:
"I love it. Its a whole new bike. Not too much power below 3000 but it will redline scary fast now. I had it over 70 in two blocks (safely, out at the lake), way faster than before. Now I need a gearing change for the trail. Worried that I will make the bike hard to ride on the road though. I will read up on that."
Being the owner of a 525EXC, I think the KLX250 is a fine bike, but it sure is time consuming to work on in comparison!!!!
John Davies
Spokane WA
Ryan.
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