View Poll Results: Have you replaced the OEM cam chain tensioner?
No, the bike doesn't make any noise so I haven't
17
36.17%
No, I haven't, it has some rattle, but I'm not concerned.
3
6.38%
Yes, I replaced a failed OEM tensioner with another OEM tensioner
2
4.26%
Yes I replaced a failed OEM tensioner with a manual tensioner
14
29.79%
Yes, I replaced the OEM tensioner BEFORE it failed as a preemptive step for reliability.
11
23.40%
No, I bodged the stock unit to quiet it down. (meaning of bodged - google it)
0
0%
Voters: 47. You may not vote on this poll
Has your cam chain tensioner failed?
#5
12-18-2017 | 03:51 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8
I haven't done anything with the tensioner yet..
I just bought the bike, but when the engine is cold there is a bit too much sound coming from the chain if you ask me.. It becomes much less after the engine's heated up a bit.
Might not be a bad idea in my case to first replace the chain since I don't know the history of this bike. If it's still bad after that I might do something with the tensioner.
What is the bodge to the original one? I guess you know someone who did that. I'm quiet interested to hear about that since I wouldn't mind fixing it without spending too much money
I just bought the bike, but when the engine is cold there is a bit too much sound coming from the chain if you ask me.. It becomes much less after the engine's heated up a bit.
Might not be a bad idea in my case to first replace the chain since I don't know the history of this bike. If it's still bad after that I might do something with the tensioner.
What is the bodge to the original one? I guess you know someone who did that. I'm quiet interested to hear about that since I wouldn't mind fixing it without spending too much money
#6
12-18-2017 | 04:44 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 227
From: Fayette Co. WV
1st Gear Member
#7
12-19-2017 | 02:11 AM
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,562
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
IDRIDR I've probably sent out several hundred over the past several years. It has been the top seller. At one time the Honda VTR1000 Superhawk/Firestorm was tops. Clearly the cam chain tensioners on the KLXs - all KLXs - is a weak point. That was why I wondered how many have or haven't had problems or how they dealt with them.
I went through two similar style OEM ones on my 650 and after a top end job, didn't want to put another one in,so after talking with the shop mechanics whom I very much trusted and were close friends, I modified a stock one making it manual. Now 35,000 miles later it is still doing the job on the 650. Unfortunately I think my rod bearing may not be anymore. Bottom end time this summer.
KLXVietnam odds are from what you describe, your chain is just fine. HyVo chains are extremely strong and long wearing. I do not remember ever reading or hearing where someone actually had one measure out of spec. What usually happens is if the tensioner allows too much chain whip it will jump time at the crank and stick the valves into the piston, maybe breaking the chain when everything locks up, or break the sliders. In what you say, it sounds like the tensioner is going south, but it takes some time to ruin the chain. Unless you bodge it, like loosening the tensioner until it clicks then tighten it back down or taking the cap off and spring out then sticking a screwdriver in and hammering it until the tensioner clicks... Can you say "too tight"? I thought you could. The cam journals run in the plain bearing surfaces machined in the head. Think how good it is to pull the cams down tight. Break the film of oil between the cam and head and you have at least a partial seizure. That is bodging it ( a wonderful British term). Heads ain't cheap.
If you want to try it, go ahead, but I do not recommend it. That is why my KLX650 got a manual unit in 2000, the reason I ended up starting to make them when I couldn't get one for my Zephyr 550 back in 09, and why my own 2009 KLX250 ended up with one. They all needed it and I quit bodging stuff back when I was twentysomething plus my mechanical engineering mind got in gear, understanding what is mechanically going on and the proper solutions..
I do make them for the 250, have since around 2010 or 2011 whenever a couple KLX riders asked if I could make one. TNC followed through with measurements, pictures, and even a rub over the opening in the head for me to visualize how it was oriented when laying the design out in CAD. It was both a challenge and fun. The first one worked and he's still running it. I don't push them on people. In fact what I say is if there is no noise don't fix what ain't broke, but if there is noise, fix it. I also didn't gouge on the pricing, undercutting most makers fairly significantly. My idea was to do what I wanted. A part that was priced low enough for most any rider to choose it over the OEM and bodging, and with the KLX250 I believe I am still the only one making them. The ebay specials that claim to fit apparently don't, they fit the KLR, which ain't the same.
Either way it has been fun doing it and makes me wonder how many have dealt with the problem.
I went through two similar style OEM ones on my 650 and after a top end job, didn't want to put another one in,so after talking with the shop mechanics whom I very much trusted and were close friends, I modified a stock one making it manual. Now 35,000 miles later it is still doing the job on the 650. Unfortunately I think my rod bearing may not be anymore. Bottom end time this summer.
KLXVietnam odds are from what you describe, your chain is just fine. HyVo chains are extremely strong and long wearing. I do not remember ever reading or hearing where someone actually had one measure out of spec. What usually happens is if the tensioner allows too much chain whip it will jump time at the crank and stick the valves into the piston, maybe breaking the chain when everything locks up, or break the sliders. In what you say, it sounds like the tensioner is going south, but it takes some time to ruin the chain. Unless you bodge it, like loosening the tensioner until it clicks then tighten it back down or taking the cap off and spring out then sticking a screwdriver in and hammering it until the tensioner clicks... Can you say "too tight"? I thought you could. The cam journals run in the plain bearing surfaces machined in the head. Think how good it is to pull the cams down tight. Break the film of oil between the cam and head and you have at least a partial seizure. That is bodging it ( a wonderful British term). Heads ain't cheap.
If you want to try it, go ahead, but I do not recommend it. That is why my KLX650 got a manual unit in 2000, the reason I ended up starting to make them when I couldn't get one for my Zephyr 550 back in 09, and why my own 2009 KLX250 ended up with one. They all needed it and I quit bodging stuff back when I was twentysomething plus my mechanical engineering mind got in gear, understanding what is mechanically going on and the proper solutions..
I do make them for the 250, have since around 2010 or 2011 whenever a couple KLX riders asked if I could make one. TNC followed through with measurements, pictures, and even a rub over the opening in the head for me to visualize how it was oriented when laying the design out in CAD. It was both a challenge and fun. The first one worked and he's still running it. I don't push them on people. In fact what I say is if there is no noise don't fix what ain't broke, but if there is noise, fix it. I also didn't gouge on the pricing, undercutting most makers fairly significantly. My idea was to do what I wanted. A part that was priced low enough for most any rider to choose it over the OEM and bodging, and with the KLX250 I believe I am still the only one making them. The ebay specials that claim to fit apparently don't, they fit the KLR, which ain't the same.
Either way it has been fun doing it and makes me wonder how many have dealt with the problem.
Last edited by klx678; 12-19-2017 at 02:13 AM.
#8
12-20-2017 | 02:56 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 143
From: CA
1st Gear Member
my bike had a ticking/vibrating noise when I would slowing down or reving the motor passed 6k rpm ...
replaced the spring, tried reseting the tensioner 1000 times ...nothing worked.
manual CCT fixed it.
replaced the spring, tried reseting the tensioner 1000 times ...nothing worked.
manual CCT fixed it.
#9
01-07-2018 | 05:48 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 653
From: Vista, CA
1st Gear Member
Mine failed back in 2012. It was a 2009 KLX250S with 3000 miles on it. Wear marks were clearly visible on the tensioner. At the time there was enough information to indicate that the stock design was prone to failure. Not sure if Kawi improved the design and the manual tensioner was half the price and works. No brainer. No issues for the next 5000 miles... and then I sold the bike.
#10
01-28-2018 | 01:00 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 9
From: Dunno, West Oz
No it hasn't failed however I have got a manual tensioner here to install if I feel there is a problem with the stock unit. I had a good fiddle with the stock item when I did the 330 kit and it worked ok so put a new o ring on it and reinstalled it.