yeah your prob right... I mentioned the manual "counting 32 pins across" just to let everyone know that the cams were adjusted properly


yeah , I took the carb out
took off the float bowl ... looked fine wasn't even yellow or anything and weren't even any pieces of debris ....

but I sprayed the whole thing with carb cleaner for a good 10 min out on the side walk.
I stuck the carb cleaner nozzle in all the holes and sprayed em good ...
only thing I didn't do was use a wire cleaner thing to clean the holes.

 

that sounds like hell ..

I'll check the clearances ..since Im going to check the timing anyways.

the timing marks should be fine though ,
before I put the valve cover on I made sure that they were as exactly like the picture in the manual.

If everything turns out to be fine then ill be back to where I started .. which is why I posted this...
honestly maybe thats just how the bike is ...i've heard from many people the KLX is cold blooded. so maybe thats just what I'm experiencing here. ..idk

 

The only reason why the marks wouldn't be lined up that I can't think of is the chain skipped a tooth while I was installing and tuning the Krieger manual CCT.
...hopefully that just happened cause that would be an easy fix. Again when I set the sprockets .. I set them as perfect as I thought was possible.

Idk I can't work on it till next week because I have final exams this week .

 

Gas can go bad over a period of about a month, at least here in Ohio. After a month my 250 will either be hard starting or not start. Drain the carb float bowl and it fires up near instantly. The 650 will be hard starting after a week. Some people run the gas out of the carb by shutting off the petcock. Others may turn the petcock off and drain the carb.

I actually leave the petcock on letting it hold gas in the bowl, then when I am ready to ride, if it's been a while I will turn off the petcock and drain the float bowl.

I will also tell you that the pilot jet change and the adjustment of the idle mix screw makes it start far easier. Drilling the starter jet helps too.

 

There are some decent youtube videos on finding top dead center (TDC) and installing the cams, search for Mr. Duhfactor KLX 351 build Katsumi. I ordered the dynojet kit and installed. Runs great now.

 

All one does is look in the timing hole at about the 1:00 position on the left side cover when looking at it while turning the crank over, until the T mark shows. Then put the cams in with the timing marks aligned with the head. Since the ignition sparks every 360 degrees all that matters is that the T mark is aligned.

Best thing to do when working on valves is to have it turned to the T mark before doing any work. Then all you have to do is look to make sure it still is at the T mark when reassembling everything.

Get a copy of the manual on line - freebie. I think it's even listed in a sticky for the KLX250.

 

Iirc when you rotating the crank to find the timing msrk, you can find that it's 180 degrees out requiring another 360 rotation getting the cams lined up correctly. I pulled the valve cover to check to make sure it was tdc/same as the pics I was going off of. Dirt surfer I think was the thread starter.

four strokes fire every other revolution, Two strokes fire every revolution.

As a precaution I zip tied the cam chain so not to drop it into the lower end requiring more work. Also keeping the chain up against the sprocket on the crank as I had an issue getting the cams set... Turned out the chain bunched up in the lower end and I had to remove the head once again to dislodge the cam chain so the cam chain had adequate slack to reinstall back on the cam sprockets. Pia! Be warned....

 

not typically, but yeah, did that too.

hopefully the op finds the issue.