Very interesting. And clever!

 

The only issue I would have is cutting a hole in the rubber carb boot, if that leaks, the bike probably isn't going to run too good at all..and I suspect a new one is surprisingly pricy....I wonder if there are any in-line primers small enuf for the 1/4-inch gas lines? hmmmm maybe I'll surf the web and see

 

Okay..did a little searching of the primer kits for the Keihin carbs and it looks like they are supposed to replace the choke? BUT I think the DRZ400 has both, so i will have to take a closer look at my riding buddy's DRZ400 and see what is geared up to his carb, but i would be willing to ditch the choke to fix the cranky start thingy for less than $20if that's what has to happen

 

Turning off the petcock and running the carb dry when you shut down will do the trick. Aslo, you can drain then refill the float bowl in you forget to burn the bowl dry before shutting down.

It's always nice to see an alternative though and it's a bit quicker than draining the bowl if you get in that situation.

 

That is a neat job but I'm sure you will have a leak in no time in that carb boot[:@]I ran NOS on a couple bike and we drilled and tapped the aluminum to install the nozzle ....a lot of bikes have a vacum tube made into the carb boot witha cap on it ....If it leaks you will just have to buy a new boot ......I would look for a threaded coupler with a nt pinch nut and washer on both sides that way you could mount it in the boot better I'm sure some one makes such a thing check into Nitrous system parts I know they you a lot of dry systems now and pump into the intake air hose on a lot of sport bikes just and idea....

 

Turning off the fuel and waiting around to let the bike run dry after I ride, only to have to turn the fuel back on when I ride again?
What a fool I am to think that pressing a primer button once is easier.

Niether did I....I love the "turn the bike on it's side" trick best though.
Jetting is pretty neat too.....the only problem is is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt.
The only fix than actually works well most every time is to change out to a pumper carb. Kind of expensive though when the reason it works is because it sprays a load of gas into the chamber when you goose it.
Wont a primer do the same thing though?

PS: Took me 20 minutes to install.

 

Its a good idea. I've thought about it before. But my KLX only gives me hard starting problems when its 32*F. Anything above, it will start with the choke.

It might be a project to invest in if you every have to replace the fuel lines.

 

Guess you haven't been doing enough reading... The cold starting problem has nothing to do with uncapping / adjusting your pilot screw..
I've changed the jetting entirely on my stock carb (and yes adjusted the pilot screw as well) and it makes no difference in the cold start performance.

There is obviously some fundamental problem with the stock carburetor - a number of theories have been suggested.
The fix for me is going to be installing my TM36-68 pumper carb...

 

Actually I didn't mean to sound like your idea was stupid or anything, my bad. Let us know how that works out. If I understand right it just shoots gas into the front of the carb into the cylinder? Kind of like a squirt of nitrous. I get it, cool. When thinking of running the gas out though you don't have to wait around long, I mean it gives you a minute to put your gear away, and you don't actually have to run all of the gas out. Also I don't run the gas out every time I ride. If I ride the bike every or even every other day it will start fine. But if I know I'm going to be gone for a 4 day weekend or there is snow on the ground and the chances of me riding are slim, then I will actually start the bike and get most of the gas to run out. A word of caution to anyone who uses the "run the gas out" procedure. I forgot to turn off the gas on the wife's bike last time, and after draining the bowl it started right up, then I shut off the gas and let it run dry with the choke on. Not a good idea. The head pipe turned orange. Its one thing to run the gas out after the bike was already running and warmed up,but if you try it when the choke is on you really run it lean and things heat up pretty fast.

 

Yeah Deej that's a bad idea on an air cooled bike to do that.As someone mentioned about the primer for the carb in a previous post....I had suggested this in our master post on this problem.My Honda atv uses the same carb but a slight difference in that it allows a primer **** on the right hand side of the float bowl.This is the sure solution IMO.I have not run my Honda since october and i can bet my next paycheck that 2 pumps of the primer and pull the choke and she will fire right off to a nice idle....It has always worked.My klx on the other hand? I never had a problem.It sat for 5 weeks while i had my cast on for the second time and i went out and turned on the gas and pulled the choke and hit the button...bbbbroom....off she went...and it was about 20* out too not a problem.I also have my pilot out 3 1/2 turns too ....I do know that with a #40 pilot i never needed the choke at all right through november (temps in the 30* area)....but it drank gas like a pig with no real benefit in power.
Good suggestion for a fix though.Those fuel hoses should be fine I ran them on my shifter kart for years and never had a problem....they will harden after about 2 or 3 years though but you can get a 20 ft. foll of it for 15 bux.